Feathers in 120mm?

[ghamilt1]

Hi all.

I'm putting a few finishing touches on Pilipili's Landsknecht soldier in 120mm, and would like to add a few feathers to the hat. So, I was wondering what is the best way to go about this? Does anyone have any tips and or sample pictures they'd care to share? I can tell you I have Magic Sculp, and sheet aluminum at my disposal. I also have some real feathers from a fly tying kit, but they don't look right to me. Other than that, I am completely open to your suggestions.

 

[Guy]

Hello Glenn,

I have found there is nothing like the real feather for the hat. Alot of your hobby / arts and crafts stores carry feathers that can be used for this purpose. They are small and sometimes require little if any cutting or down sizing.

HTH

 

[quang]

Hello Glenn,

I guess that the feathers in question would be ostrich feathers (the same as on musketeer's hats). Here's how I'd do it.

– Material and tools: Magic Sculp (MS), Kneadatite (ex-Duro), talcum powder, ceramic/glass tile, rolling pin, small scissors, small paintbrush, worn X-Acto blade.

1 – Make a 50/50 mix of MS and Duro (small ball the size of a chestnut).

2 – Flatten the ball on the ceramic/glass tile with plenty of talcum powder to prevent sticking. Roll it with the rolling pin (or a small beer bottle) until you get a thin sheet of putty about the thickness of a credit card.

3 – Cut the shape of the feather with the small scissors. What you should get is a small sheet of putty in the shape of a spatula (elongated oval shape). Make several.

4 – Carefully install the feathers on the hat. Tease into position with a small paintbrush. Keep teasing during 20-30 minutes until the putty begins to set.

5 – Leave the hat and feathers overnight for the putty to cure.

6 – Next day, check the feather dimensions, shapes and folds. Correct (carve out) where needed.

7 – Apply a thin coat of MS on one side of the feather. Feather the fresh putty onto the hardened base with a wet paintbrush and texture by scoring small lines with an old X-Acto blade.

8 – When the texturing is done, leave it some hours to harden.

9 – Repeat the same texturing on other side.

10 – Clean up with fine wet-and-dry paper/wire wool. Et voilà! Miniature feathers.

The trick is not to try to do it in ONE go. First step is shaping and positioning the feather. Second step is texturing on one side. Third step is texturing the other side.

As always, you learn it by doing it. Good luck!

HTH,
Q.

 

[Hyades]

Thanks for the technique, Quang! Do you have any close-up pics of feathers you've made?

Nancy

 

[quang]

Hello Nancy,

The feathers on the pics are not the ostrich plumes that would be suitable for Glenn's Landsknecht but the techniques are basically the same.

One other thing: do not 'blind sculpt'. Always use a reference (a good photo or better still the real thing) as a model.

HTH

Q.

 

[Roy]

Some great solid advice Quang...

And beautiful photo's.

Thank you....Roy.

 

[Bluesking]

Thanks for the technique Quang, I wondered why yours are ALWAYS better than my attempts (other than the fact you are so much more talented).

Everybody wants to know why I sing the Blues!!!

 

[ghamilt1]

Wow, Thanks to Guy And Quang for those most helpful tips. I think I'm going to give Quang's method a try. Quang, do you think I could manage using Magic Sculp alone? I don't know of any place out here in the Canadian West where I can get Duro or Kneadatite putty. Thanks again for the help, and I'll be sure to post the results.

 

[Cicero]

Hello all,

I myself having also a "feather problem". For some time I try to sculpt feathers for a 90mm figure. I think I did at least 15 pairs of plumes but I didn't succeeded yet. In this case I need some straith plumes, so not the ostrich type. I proceeded in just the same way as Quang, but using shaped tin lead foil as a base for the MS (ideas form Marijn Van Gils and Stephen Mallia who I both consulted for it). The first layer goes well, but it is the second layer on the opposite side that gives me a headache. In the end the plumes always look too thick when viewed from the side, so they look out of scale. The second problem I met was the breaking off of some bits when trying to sand them down. I also tried using Duro but this was of no avail.
I really wonder what I am doing wrong and at this point nearly gave up all hope to ever produce some acceptable sculpting .

I hope you have more luck (or skill) than me Ghamilt1

Johan

 

[quang]

Glenn: Duro gives some extra resilience to the MS and allow it to be rolled paper-thin. But in your case (ostrich feathers) where thickness is not so critical, I think MS alone would do perfectly. Please let us know how it worked out.

Stephen: "Everybody wants to know why I sing the Blues!!!". Would you rather yodel? :lol:

Johan: 'It's a Long And Winding Road...'

Cheers,
Q.

 

[ghamilt1]

Quang;

While I'm sure your advice is sound (as is evident from your results), after trying it out for a couple of hours, I came to a couple of conclusions;

1. MS is very difficult to wipe off of walls after being hurled there in a blind rage.
2. Actual feathers just might do the trick after all.

Ah well, I'll keep trying until my skills improve, but I'll practice on some other figure, as I'm really happy with the paint job on my Landsknecht, and don't want him ruined just because I happen to be a little ham fisted with sculpting tools. (which are equally difficult to pry out of the wall once embedded). Thanks for the tips again guys.

Glenn

 

[Hyades]

Thanks for the pics, Quang. I'll have to try it out - and hopefully I'll have better luck than Glenn! But, knowing me, it'll take practice, practice and more practice. Right there with ya, Glenn...

Nancy

 

[quang]

Glenn & Nancy,

Like they say in martial arts: Practice hard, fight easy.

Keep on rolling!

All the best,
Q.