Flesh tones

[jimz66]

I also had a question on flesh tones. I see a few YT videos where folks create their own flesh tones rather than using the ones provided by the manufactures. I'm just curios as to why?

 

[winfield]

Skin tones in the bottle are just a starting point. Too pale, too red, too dark, etc. If you study skin color, for one thing the skin is not colored the same on different places. The face in particular has many different shades. Find articles that address the issue and read up a bit. It will make sense after a while. Basically, realistic skin tones come from study of the subject, and the various different tones will fall into a bit of order. Find a figure painter whose skin you like and add that to your studies. Luck!

 

[PropBlast]

There are so many different colours that make up skin tones and a lot of those you probably wouldn't even consider when painting flesh - blues, yellows, red, greens, etc. May I suggest looking Aythami Alonso Torrent and Milan Dufek videos on Youtube. If you paint in oils or acrylics these two guys are masters and I've learnt so much from just watching them.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPuH3xcGmOh9LliKI1gFSQg

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXL1lkJ7HhgMJBAqhJCQPkg/videos

 

[Mirofsoft]

In the past at the time with cathode TV ( not far away ) the way peoples saw skin tones was far different
Your TV was Japanese ( tubes mades by Sony ), green was dominant, dead bodies walking
Your TV was European ( tubes made by Philips ), red was dominant, vivid living
Now the LED backlighting technology is almost the same everyhere, but the way you balance your colours, luminosity, correction of this or that is different in almost every home, thus the perception of colours is not the same . What please you as result is conditioned by what you see every day on your screen. It's not purely academic like before the 70ies ( by the way colours pictures film had also those dominants green ( Fuji) red ( Kodak )
Then what are you painting 54mm ? Than basic flesh colours with shadows and highlights is enough . It's when painting far biger size, that you fall in the war of acrylics versus oils, whit a touch of green because, or blue because, of vermillon because, or whatever, there is always a purely academic because, BUT remember, you are painting in 3D not on a flat panel . Lot of peoples came with blah blah this and blah blah that and the theory of colours, and the opposites ( this work perfectly for modern art like Warhool, Picasso, Marvel ... ) But when an uniform is described as deep blue with red facing, don't come with the perfect opposite of blue is ... who cares, the uniform is deep blue with red facing . Or paint a bust sky blue with clouds across the face and call it " This is not a bust ", or paint drawers here and there, or paint it with a painting knife, with very thick medium, or put it in a turning drum and pour some colours on it ... there you can speak about colours theory, and balance, and bla blah blah
Try something simple first ... paint it flesh tone in enamels, let it dry, then put a mix of flesh tone mixed with Sienna ( oils ), wippe it with a sponge lateraly and you got your highlights and shadows, then begin to add more light here, more shadow there, add red to firts mix of oils for the lips, light them up with a bit white then again ( smaller surface ) look at it at 1 foot distance, without magnifying glass and ask you what can I do for even a better result . An do not forgot : " the best is the enemy of the good "
Go have a try . It is practice makes perfect . Best

 

[NigelR]

IMO the sets of flesh tone colours are too restrictive and expensive. I've bought two such sets in my time and neither worked well for me. It's better to learn how to mix colours and also use colours that you would use for other things such as burnt umber, raw sienna, burnt sienna etc. That way you can buy fewer better quality paints.

The one place I have found paint sets useful is for certain uniforms. For example I paint WWI subjects and the LifeColor and AK sets are both great starting points IMO for things like British and French uniforms. But I would never use such a thing for Napoleonics.

 

[kagemusha]

If I may...it puzzles me that even buying specific colour sets...some at outlandish prices...many refer to them merely as a 'starting point'...when logically...you could rephrase that to 'no point'.
No matter your chosen medium...there is no substitute for learning the basics of colour mixing...a lot cheaoer in the long run IMHO.

Ron

 

[NigelR]

If I may...it puzzles me that even buying specific colour sets...some at outlandish prices...many refer to them merely as a 'starting point'...when logically...you could rephrase that to 'no point'.

Just to pick up on that point, the AK Interactive WWI British uniforms set is an example for me. The base colour is an excellent khaki which means that if you are painting several figures you have a consistent starting point without mixing. If you do multiple figure dioramas/vignettes IMO it's a great way to ensure harmony and consistency between the figures. Mixing a consistent khaki over several sessions and figures (and in one case, several weeks/months) is certainly beyond my capabilities.

You could just buy the one colour rather than a set, but the sets I am referring to only have three colours in so aren't outrageously expensive (and all three colours are useful). And likewise the LifeColor WWI British set contains a useful base palette of five colours covering uniforms, webbing and leather, all of which I have found useful.

But I do agree the prevalence of paint sets for really niche things like "European Sweat Colours" does seem to take things a bit too far . And I think flesh sets fall into this category, at least the ones I have tried.

 

[Blind Pew]

One thing I would add is to paint your figures in as similar (if not the same) type of light as to where they'll eventually go on display. The difference can be spectacular - and not always flattering.

You could be worse than try this book

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Color-Mixing-Recipes-Portraits-Combinations/dp/1560109904

For about a fiver, well worth the money.

 

[theBaron]

...it puzzles me that even buying specific colour sets...some at outlandish prices...

I have had the same thought, but I realize that for some, especially people entering the hobby, the paint sets available on the market let them get more consistent results from the beginning, than if they followed the path many of us did and learned by trial-and-error, informed by advice from more experienced painters.

Or modelers, for that matter. AK Interactive products are very popular among scale modelers, for example, and I think the same phenomenon is in effect. People new to the hobby look all over for tips as they start out, and they see and hear about how this wash from AK, or that weathering powder from someone else, this resin aftermarket set, those diorama sets, etc, etc, all produce attractive results right away.

I don't use the products myself; I pride myself that I can mix washes, or grind pastel chalk, or scavenge a radio or a PC to get bits to use to superdetail an interior. But I can see why some folks would-new painters and modelers, or veterans who've decided to save themselves the effort, too.

Suum quique, prost!
Brad

 

[kagemusha]

Whilst your points are valid and I agree wholeheartedly Brad...I feel it's a shame that more information is not widely available to people coming into our hobby...on just how easy it is to create such things as washes and pigments at home.
Off the shelf 'convenience' products are a huge market these days...and certainly not cheap!...but do...as you rightly say...offer a consistent result for very little effort.
I just think that...convenience hampers learning...and can in turn lead to boredom with the same result time after time.
Guess it all comes down to personal choice.

Ron

 

[jimz66]

ZOIKES I wish I'd known all of this BEFORE I bought all my paints. I just invested in LOTS of AK 3rd generation paints. But then again I'm starting out. I think I'm going to go with what I have and start to learn with what I've got.

PropBlast I've already been watching both of those channels before you posted as well as others.


Blind Pew I have that book now I just need to find it. I know I ordered a few years back but its lost in the shuffle somewhere.

Thanks everyone. Cheers Jim

 

[Mirofsoft]

Lucky you are .... 2022
1970 ... no internet, only military modelling, but SHOPS where you could meet other customers wth a bit more experience to share, like " don't forget shadows and higlights, for the rest, you have a thumb you can suck .. "

 

[Chrisr]

It's better to learn how to mix colours and also use colours that you would use for other things such as burnt umber, raw sienna, burnt sienna etc. That way you can buy fewer better quality paints.

Agreed Nigel. Mixing your own flesh tones from some simple mixes is less expensive, easily achieved, and gives a range of shades and mixes.

A few I use for caucasian skin are:
Titanium white, burnt Sienna and yellow ochre with a smidgeon of viridian;
Titanium white, burnt Sienna and a smidgeon of viridian;
Cadmium red, naples yellow and a smidgeon of viridian;
Titanium white, naples yellow, crimson and a smidgeon of viridian.

 

[Nap]

Interesting question and conversation here

My take on it , for a beginner for want of a better word , they see all these sets and sometimes think using them will paint as they see in pics, videosits all using what the individual is happy with ....

Who hasn't got far too many bottles of paint they hardly use ....I have

Not tried the AK series 3 so be interesting to hear how you get on ...my advice is don't buy any more use what you have

Enjoy , post on here , constructive comments will I am sure help you .....then practice and practice

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[socko47]

Just came across this vid…

 

[Larsen E. Whipsnade]

I agree with just about everyone.... the colors straight out of the bottle just aren't realistic no matter the brand name. In my particular case and since I do mostly military themed figures I like the finished flesh tones to be on the dark side to indicate a weather beaten look. I use four primary colors (all Vallejo) Black Red, Beige Red, Basic Skin Tone and Light Flesh. I make a 50/50 mix of Black Red and Beige Red and paint the entire face. From here on in it's all dry brushing. Next is a 50/50 mix of Beige Red and Basic Skin Tone applied selectively to the raised areas of the face only leaving the sunken areas of the face in the Black Red/Beige Red shadow. Next is a very limited use of straight Basic Skin Tone to add depth to the face, topped off minute amounts of Light Flesh to create the brightest, most prominent highlights.
Rick

 

[milbenplage]

I have a lot of premixed skintone colors. Usually I use some of them pure, but I always mix intermediate tones and/or add different tones (red, blue, green, yellow, orange, etc.) to add color-variations and/or atmosphere.
The video by Kimera is pretty helpful. You can skip the part where he mixes the basic skin tone, but the manipulation of the basic skintone is very helpful.

The current miniature-painting-related youtube-hypes are something one might consider trying, but if it doesn't work for you than don't force it on you.

 

[Wayneb]

Buy a model that you like..and if you've never painted anything, slap some paint on it as you see fit and see what you come up with. If you enjoy the process and what you've accomplished; move on from there and then you will be able to take advantage of all the great advice that you asked for. If you're just starting, make your move as best you can with what you've got.

Wayne