Ferris
A Fixture
Nice one Phil. Looking forward to following this.
Adrian
Adrian
WIP Guan Yu - 90mm Chinese General
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phil_h
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phil_h
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Thanks Adrian
phil_h
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Thanks clrsgt
phil_h
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Hello everybody...
For our next installment, we have a bunch of totally random things that needed to be squared away - of note we have:
Next is the Big Beard. This is actually much more interesting. For good or for bad, all Asian hair is black (or grey, or both I suppose). There is not much room for interest color-wise. So I decided to do something a little different - even if just for the sake of visual interest.
The base color is a dark turquois (Phthalo Turquois from Golden) mixed roughly 50/50 with Carbon Black. When looked at it looks black, but as it catches the light, it's noticeable that there may be a little something else going on with it. Starting from there, I added more and more midtone from the skin to create the highlights. Here is the palette:
This created an interesting look for something that is ostensibly "black". (at least in my opinion
). Hair is much closer to satin than matte and picks up and reflects ambient light of all sorts, and in my mind this is whats going on here. It also doesn't hurt that I think it just looks cool and works . I think if I did just plain black with progressively lighter grey highlights, it would look considerably more boring. Here is a pic of the completed beard (along with the finished hand)
Our final bit of "random parts that need to be painted before we get serious" is the hat. Here are the colors for the hat
Clearly I'm going for somekind of green. Here are the colors on the palette:
Painting the hat was a little bit more of a back and forth process for me than usual - mainly due to the fact that I wasn't quite sure how to get what I wanted. Eventually what I wound up with was base coating everything with pure Permanent Green Light, and then mixing Carbon Black with some glazing medium, and then glazing over everything with that - going over the shadow areas several times. Next, I layered a mix of Permanent Green Light and Titanium White where I wanted more light - getting lighter and lighter where I wanted the most light. Here is the hat:
The next part of the hat is the golden crown part. Here are the colors used
Here is the crown basecoated with the Iridescent Bright Gold
Despite being all one color, some parts are a little brighter due to the the fact that prior to putting on the basecoat, I painted in Titanium White where I wanted the lights to be the brightest. (This is something I'm doing more and more frequently with all my metallics.) Next I washed the gold with diluted Burnt Umber
Finally, after the Burnt Umber wash, I picked out the details with the Iridescent Gold. This also completes the hat, and all the elements done today, so here is a final pic that is a little larger
Hope you found this interesting - next we have an undershirt and some armor plates to do.
Regards,
Phil
PS - if anybody could tell me how to make the msg editor do proper paragraphs, that would be very much appreciated!
For our next installment, we have a bunch of totally random things that needed to be squared away - of note we have:
- A hand
- A Big Beard
- A hat of some sort
Next is the Big Beard. This is actually much more interesting. For good or for bad, all Asian hair is black (or grey, or both I suppose). There is not much room for interest color-wise. So I decided to do something a little different - even if just for the sake of visual interest.
The base color is a dark turquois (Phthalo Turquois from Golden) mixed roughly 50/50 with Carbon Black. When looked at it looks black, but as it catches the light, it's noticeable that there may be a little something else going on with it. Starting from there, I added more and more midtone from the skin to create the highlights. Here is the palette:
This created an interesting look for something that is ostensibly "black". (at least in my opinion
). Hair is much closer to satin than matte and picks up and reflects ambient light of all sorts, and in my mind this is whats going on here. It also doesn't hurt that I think it just looks cool and works . I think if I did just plain black with progressively lighter grey highlights, it would look considerably more boring. Here is a pic of the completed beard (along with the finished hand)
Our final bit of "random parts that need to be painted before we get serious" is the hat. Here are the colors for the hat
Clearly I'm going for somekind of green. Here are the colors on the palette:
Painting the hat was a little bit more of a back and forth process for me than usual - mainly due to the fact that I wasn't quite sure how to get what I wanted. Eventually what I wound up with was base coating everything with pure Permanent Green Light, and then mixing Carbon Black with some glazing medium, and then glazing over everything with that - going over the shadow areas several times. Next, I layered a mix of Permanent Green Light and Titanium White where I wanted more light - getting lighter and lighter where I wanted the most light. Here is the hat:
The next part of the hat is the golden crown part. Here are the colors used
Here is the crown basecoated with the Iridescent Bright Gold
Despite being all one color, some parts are a little brighter due to the the fact that prior to putting on the basecoat, I painted in Titanium White where I wanted the lights to be the brightest. (This is something I'm doing more and more frequently with all my metallics.) Next I washed the gold with diluted Burnt Umber
Finally, after the Burnt Umber wash, I picked out the details with the Iridescent Gold. This also completes the hat, and all the elements done today, so here is a final pic that is a little larger
Hope you found this interesting - next we have an undershirt and some armor plates to do.
Regards,
Phil
PS - if anybody could tell me how to make the msg editor do proper paragraphs, that would be very much appreciated!
anstontyke
A Fixture
superb progress phil, love the effect you have got with the beard.
your sbs is really informative and helpful,
tony
your sbs is really informative and helpful,
tony
Nice one Phil ..like the way tge beard is done and tge green is really vibrant
You obviously like these range of colours , are they thicker initially , thinning down okay ...looks like they do
This fellow is really coming to life
Thanks for sharing
Nap
I think the text layout looks good myself
You obviously like these range of colours , are they thicker initially , thinning down okay ...looks like they do
This fellow is really coming to life
Thanks for sharing
Nap
I think the text layout looks good myself
phil_h
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Thanks Borek - I'm glad you like the green - it's going to be by far the most predominate color of the model.
Regards,
Phil
phil_h
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phil_h
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Thanks for the kind words Nap.
Re: Golden - They have several different paint ranges - the ones I use are about the same thickness of Scale75 paints right out of the bottle - if you've ever used those before. They are incredibly easy to thin down with water. Hopefully you can see just how thin and diluted they are in some of the pics of the palette in the above posts. You can dilute the hell out of these, and because they have such a high pigment load, they will still maintain their color. (This can take getting a little used to if your used to using only hobby paint lines.)
Regards,
Phil
phil_h
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Hello Everybody
Big update today - I'll be posting in two parts. Like the last post, this post will cover some odds and ends, and according to our plan of going top down inside out, will focus on the inner sculpted part of the top part of the back and chest. The second post will cover the initial part of the fairly involved mid-section.
In addition to all the colors shown/used so far, we have a couple of new colors to add to our palette:
First off, we have to paint his collar. We'll do this with a basecoat of Diarylide Yellow. We'll then mix the yellow with Titanium White for highlights (no shadows needed for the collar). In addition to the collar, underneath the collar is an undershirt which will just be painted Titanium White. The finished collar:
Aside from the collar, we can see in the picture above that there is some kind of shirt that is worn directly underneath the armor plate. The shirt will be painted as follows:
Next is the first of several armor plates - they cover a lot of the model, and they will all be painted the same way, so it's worth going into a little detail.
First for the metal areas, where I want the brightest areas to be, I undercoat with Titanium White.
The metallic colors I'm using for this are semi-opaque, so the brightness of the white will shine through. Next we basecoat with Bright Gold, but use Gold (both from Golden) to basecoat the brighter area:
In the photo above it's very obvious how much brighter the corner is where we painted the white underneath. Next, we shade with a wash of Burnt Umber:
Despite the fact that in the photo it looks like the wash killed all the brightness in the top corner, it's just the photo. It's still brighter. However, I want to really emphasize the light hitting that area, so I'm going to go back with the Titanium White and pick out the specific areas again:
Above you can see the 4 or 5 individual elements that were picked out to get the highest highlights. Here they are with the gold painted on:
Looking at the above photo, it's easy to see our deliberate highlights.
Aside from the metal part of the armor plate, there is also a leather band that frames it. I decided to paint this as a faded black leather. Various grey tones where mixed going from darker to lighter with Carbon Black and Titanium White, with a highlight going in the top right corner area:
In addition to the faded black leather, there are also inside and outside borders painted using Bright Gold. With the collar shirt and armor plate finished. That completes the back. (For the time being). There is also a an armor plate on the chest area on his right side:
Here we'll take a break, and continue on in the next post.
Regards,
Phil
Big update today - I'll be posting in two parts. Like the last post, this post will cover some odds and ends, and according to our plan of going top down inside out, will focus on the inner sculpted part of the top part of the back and chest. The second post will cover the initial part of the fairly involved mid-section.
In addition to all the colors shown/used so far, we have a couple of new colors to add to our palette:
First off, we have to paint his collar. We'll do this with a basecoat of Diarylide Yellow. We'll then mix the yellow with Titanium White for highlights (no shadows needed for the collar). In addition to the collar, underneath the collar is an undershirt which will just be painted Titanium White. The finished collar:
Aside from the collar, we can see in the picture above that there is some kind of shirt that is worn directly underneath the armor plate. The shirt will be painted as follows:
- The base tone is is a Carbon Black/Titanium White mix to make a light grey. Once the grey is mixed, a small amount of Green Gold (a great color) is mixed in.
- Once the base coat is on, a fairly diluted black is glazed into the shadow areas.
- Highlights were done in a very low contrast fashion - just a little bit of pure Green Gold was glazed in the appropriate areas.
Next is the first of several armor plates - they cover a lot of the model, and they will all be painted the same way, so it's worth going into a little detail.
First for the metal areas, where I want the brightest areas to be, I undercoat with Titanium White.
The metallic colors I'm using for this are semi-opaque, so the brightness of the white will shine through. Next we basecoat with Bright Gold, but use Gold (both from Golden) to basecoat the brighter area:
In the photo above it's very obvious how much brighter the corner is where we painted the white underneath. Next, we shade with a wash of Burnt Umber:
Despite the fact that in the photo it looks like the wash killed all the brightness in the top corner, it's just the photo. It's still brighter. However, I want to really emphasize the light hitting that area, so I'm going to go back with the Titanium White and pick out the specific areas again:
Above you can see the 4 or 5 individual elements that were picked out to get the highest highlights. Here they are with the gold painted on:
Looking at the above photo, it's easy to see our deliberate highlights.
Aside from the metal part of the armor plate, there is also a leather band that frames it. I decided to paint this as a faded black leather. Various grey tones where mixed going from darker to lighter with Carbon Black and Titanium White, with a highlight going in the top right corner area:
In addition to the faded black leather, there are also inside and outside borders painted using Bright Gold. With the collar shirt and armor plate finished. That completes the back. (For the time being). There is also a an armor plate on the chest area on his right side:
Here we'll take a break, and continue on in the next post.
Regards,
Phil
phil_h
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Continuing on from our last post...
Here is our first encounter with the green robe that covers the majority of the model.
Our approach is going to be similar to how we painted the hat (covered in a prior post). Here is how we'll do it:
The robe has some kind of border element, which we'll paint a dark violet. Here is what this looks like:
You can see this at the top of his left shoulder. We base coated this with pure Quinacridone Violet - which being quite dark will be our shadows. We'll then mixed in Titanium White for high lights. We'll see both the green and violet sections of the robe several more times in the course of painting The General.
Next is the glove on his right hand. As befits our general, he's wearing some pretty fancy gloves - they also match his greaves as well. So let's check out how we should paint them.
First, we paint the inner part of the glove, which conveniently for us, matches the violet border of the robe. After basecoating with pure Quinacridone Violet, we shadow the lower part with a Carbon Black glaze, and high light by adding Titanium White into the violet. Shown below:
Next is the green border around the violet. The top corner is highlighted with a mix of Permanent Green Light and Titanium White
The above pic was taken in slightly different lighting just to show the highlighted portion of the glove, because it was difficult to see. (You can also see quite a few figures from Art Girona in their boxes behind him). To finish off the glove, we need to paint the inner and outer borders - similar to the armor plates. We'll use Bright Gold. The finished gloves:
With the glove finished, that takes care of his chest area (with the exception of the parts not currently glued on).
Now we'll go onto the midsection, which we'll start in this post, and finish in subsequent posts. We'll start with the set of circular plates with are the most recessed area in his midsection. We'll also be introducing a new color into the mix
"Chinese Orange" from Sennelier. These guys are known for making very high quality oil paints; it turns out they also make very nice acrylics too. (Besides buying this color, I bought a ton of other colors as well to experiment and try out.) It's a dark orange, getting close to umber-ish in tone, but it's a beautiful color.
Here we are with the basecoat in place of pure Chinese Orange
Next we'll add a little tonal variation to these plates by mixing in a little Diarylide Yellow at the top of the top plate, and the bottom of the bottom plate - we'll get a very smooth and subtle gradient:
Despite the fact that I think this looks rather nice, it's kinda boring, so we'll freehand in concentric rings to give us a little more excitement. This will be the first (and simplest) of three freehand patterns we'll see in the General's midsection.
With that done, we'll paint the borders around the circular plates. We're going to do that in a very similar fashion to the violet border of his green robe, but we'll be starting with a Titanium White/Quinacridone Violet mix, and then highlight by adding more white, and then shade with Winsor & Newton Violet Ink. The border:
The final step is the metal lions face right in the middle. This was done in a similar fashion with how we painted the metallics for the armor plates. Base coat of Bright Gold, followed by a Burnt Umber wash, and then white followed by Iridescent Gold. Here are two shots of our final work for today:
And that's it. Next we'll tackle the other parts of the midsection and hips before finally getting to the legs. Hope your enjoying things so far...
By the way, I'll be at the World Expo - I'm arriving Thurs night. If there is anybody that would like to meet up - let me know
Regards,
Phil
Here is our first encounter with the green robe that covers the majority of the model.
Our approach is going to be similar to how we painted the hat (covered in a prior post). Here is how we'll do it:
- Basecoat of Permanent Green Light.
- Next well be an all over glaze made from Carbon Black and Glazing medium.
- More glazes from above will be applied in the shadow areas - depending on how deep the shadow is I want, I will continue to glaze as many times as needed.
- Go back over the midtone and highlight areas with pure Permanent Green Light.
- Add a mix of Permenant Green Light and Titanium White in the highlight areas.
- Glaze in diluted Winsor & Newton's Emerald Green Ink starting in the base of the highlights, covering the mid tones, and the beginning of the shadow areas.
The robe has some kind of border element, which we'll paint a dark violet. Here is what this looks like:
You can see this at the top of his left shoulder. We base coated this with pure Quinacridone Violet - which being quite dark will be our shadows. We'll then mixed in Titanium White for high lights. We'll see both the green and violet sections of the robe several more times in the course of painting The General.
Next is the glove on his right hand. As befits our general, he's wearing some pretty fancy gloves - they also match his greaves as well. So let's check out how we should paint them.
First, we paint the inner part of the glove, which conveniently for us, matches the violet border of the robe. After basecoating with pure Quinacridone Violet, we shadow the lower part with a Carbon Black glaze, and high light by adding Titanium White into the violet. Shown below:
Next is the green border around the violet. The top corner is highlighted with a mix of Permanent Green Light and Titanium White
The above pic was taken in slightly different lighting just to show the highlighted portion of the glove, because it was difficult to see. (You can also see quite a few figures from Art Girona in their boxes behind him). To finish off the glove, we need to paint the inner and outer borders - similar to the armor plates. We'll use Bright Gold. The finished gloves:
With the glove finished, that takes care of his chest area (with the exception of the parts not currently glued on).
Now we'll go onto the midsection, which we'll start in this post, and finish in subsequent posts. We'll start with the set of circular plates with are the most recessed area in his midsection. We'll also be introducing a new color into the mix
"Chinese Orange" from Sennelier. These guys are known for making very high quality oil paints; it turns out they also make very nice acrylics too. (Besides buying this color, I bought a ton of other colors as well to experiment and try out.) It's a dark orange, getting close to umber-ish in tone, but it's a beautiful color.
Here we are with the basecoat in place of pure Chinese Orange
Next we'll add a little tonal variation to these plates by mixing in a little Diarylide Yellow at the top of the top plate, and the bottom of the bottom plate - we'll get a very smooth and subtle gradient:
Despite the fact that I think this looks rather nice, it's kinda boring, so we'll freehand in concentric rings to give us a little more excitement. This will be the first (and simplest) of three freehand patterns we'll see in the General's midsection.
With that done, we'll paint the borders around the circular plates. We're going to do that in a very similar fashion to the violet border of his green robe, but we'll be starting with a Titanium White/Quinacridone Violet mix, and then highlight by adding more white, and then shade with Winsor & Newton Violet Ink. The border:
The final step is the metal lions face right in the middle. This was done in a similar fashion with how we painted the metallics for the armor plates. Base coat of Bright Gold, followed by a Burnt Umber wash, and then white followed by Iridescent Gold. Here are two shots of our final work for today:
And that's it
. Next we'll tackle the other parts of the midsection and hips before finally getting to the legs. Hope your enjoying things so far...By the way, I'll be at the World Expo - I'm arriving Thurs night. If there is anybody that would like to meet up - let me know
Regards,
Phil
Phil
All I can say is WOW !!!! the painting is looking great and what a fantastic colour use and a packed SBS
Thanks for the detailed updates obviously a very succesful and productive session here ...nice one
Have a great time at Expo ..I will be there ..in spirit ..hope to see lots of pics here
Thanks for sharing
Nap
All I can say is WOW !!!! the painting is looking great and what a fantastic colour use and a packed SBS
Thanks for the detailed updates obviously a very succesful and productive session here ...nice one
Have a great time at Expo ..I will be there ..in spirit ..hope to see lots of pics here
Thanks for sharing
Nap
Wayneb
A Fixture
Phil....It's obvious you know what you're doing in more ways than one;...It's a pleasure to follow your work and SBS.
Wayne.
Wayne.
phil_h
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Hello Everybody...
First off, once again thanks for the very kind comments above (Nap, Wayne and Borek)!
I've finally had time to paint some more of the General. This installment completes the General's mid section and pants.
We've also added yet another color to our color palette:
Anthraquinone Blue (also known as Indanthrone Blue), is a dark blue that's a little bit more subdued than Ultramarine Blue. It's very popular for painting night skies among landscape painters - hence many people calling this color "Midnight Blue". When mixed with a tiny bit of black, it makes a great dark base tone for painting the blues used by the Continental Army during the American Revolution.
In our last post, we painted the middle area of the midsection - the large circular plate. Now we have to paint the hip guards on either side of it. To start, we'll base coat them pure Anthraquinone Blue. In addition, we'll make the bottom portion of the bottom hip guard a little lighter, by mixing in just a tiny, tiny bit of Titanium White.
(Hopefully you can see that the bottom section is a little bit brighter than the top section which is in considerably more shadow. Next we're going to freehand a series of curves all over the hip guards. We're going to paint them in using Titanium White. Here is a pic of the start of the pattern on the left hand side
Once the pattern is finished, the final step is to give everything a very fine glaze of diluted Winsor & Newton's Violet ink. The finished pattern:
Alright, with that out of the way, we can start the last of the little free handed patterns. This one is going to be done on the border of the hip guards, it'll frame the part we just painted. Unfortunately, this is a very, very, very small area to paint any kind of pattern in - despite this though, it's well worth the effort. We'll give everything a Chinese Orange/Titanium White base coat, and then paint the pattern itself with a mix of Diarylide Yellow and Titanium White. We'll also paint the edges of the border element with a lighter Diarylide Yellow/Titanium White mix, and then high light them by adding more Titanium White to the mix. Here we go (I had to blow this up a bit so the pattern shows):
With that bit of tediousness out of the way, we need to paint the belt that divides the two halves of the hip guards. We'll paint this the same green as the hat and robe. The top part is shaded, while the bottom and top edge get the highlights:
Last we have the white belt in the middle to do as well. This was base coated a medium/light grey-ish tone (just mix Carbon Black and Titanium White to taste). It was shaded with very diluted Carbon Black, and highlighted with Titanium White. This also completes the mid section, so here are a some pics before we move onto the legs:
We'll continue on with the legs in the next post...
First off, once again thanks for the very kind comments above (Nap, Wayne and Borek)!
I've finally had time to paint some more of the General. This installment completes the General's mid section and pants.
We've also added yet another color to our color palette:
Anthraquinone Blue (also known as Indanthrone Blue), is a dark blue that's a little bit more subdued than Ultramarine Blue. It's very popular for painting night skies among landscape painters - hence many people calling this color "Midnight Blue". When mixed with a tiny bit of black, it makes a great dark base tone for painting the blues used by the Continental Army during the American Revolution.
In our last post, we painted the middle area of the midsection - the large circular plate. Now we have to paint the hip guards on either side of it. To start, we'll base coat them pure Anthraquinone Blue. In addition, we'll make the bottom portion of the bottom hip guard a little lighter, by mixing in just a tiny, tiny bit of Titanium White.
(Hopefully you can see that the bottom section is a little bit brighter than the top section which is in considerably more shadow. Next we're going to freehand a series of curves all over the hip guards. We're going to paint them in using Titanium White. Here is a pic of the start of the pattern on the left hand side
Once the pattern is finished, the final step is to give everything a very fine glaze of diluted Winsor & Newton's Violet ink. The finished pattern:
Alright, with that out of the way, we can start the last of the little free handed patterns. This one is going to be done on the border of the hip guards, it'll frame the part we just painted. Unfortunately, this is a very, very, very small area to paint any kind of pattern in - despite this though, it's well worth the effort. We'll give everything a Chinese Orange/Titanium White base coat, and then paint the pattern itself with a mix of Diarylide Yellow and Titanium White. We'll also paint the edges of the border element with a lighter Diarylide Yellow/Titanium White mix, and then high light them by adding more Titanium White to the mix. Here we go (I had to blow this up a bit so the pattern shows):
With that bit of tediousness out of the way, we need to paint the belt that divides the two halves of the hip guards. We'll paint this the same green as the hat and robe. The top part is shaded, while the bottom and top edge get the highlights:
Last we have the white belt in the middle to do as well. This was base coated a medium/light grey-ish tone (just mix Carbon Black and Titanium White to taste). It was shaded with very diluted Carbon Black, and highlighted with Titanium White. This also completes the mid section, so here are a some pics before we move onto the legs:
We'll continue on with the legs in the next post...
phil_h
A Fixture
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Hello Everybody...
Continuing on from our last post, we're going to start the legs. This post will cover the pants - they'll be painted using the same color as the green shirt he's wearing. Most of the pants will be covered by a robe that is hanging from his butt (you can see the contact points for the robe on his ass in all the pics), so we're only really concerned with everything from the knees down and the outer facing parts only.
First we're going to mix a light grey and then add Green Gold to the mix. Here they are base coated:
Next we're going to shade them by creating a translucent black glaze using Carbon Black and Glaze Medium. We're going to paint this over all the paints - not just the shadow areas. Once we have the entire pair of pants covered, we'll add another couple of glazes to the shadow areas.
Now that the pants have been darkened down considerably, we need to clean them up, and reclaim our mid tones. I also believe I started to add the first of the highlights as well in this pic (the highlights where made by adding Titanium White to the grey/green gold mix).
Almost there. We need to continuing adding high lights by adding a little more Titanium White to the mix. For our highest highlights, we're going to use pure Zinc White. Compared to Titanium White, Zinc White is much "softer" and considerably less opaque (considerably). It's mainly used for color mixing, but here I'm using it as a glaze. (In this capacity, it would be very similar to Vallejo's "White Glaze" color from their Model Color range). Here is what we have on our palette:
And here are the finished paints with their final highlights added. Despite the rather high contrast in some places, I still think it comes across fairly "soft" looking - which is exactly what we want.
I didn't have time to get to it, but we still need to paint the cloth straps right above his knees.
Hopefully, I'll find time to finished of the rest of the legs as well, and move onto the fancy dragon he has on his front!
As always, I hope you like where we're at so far!
Regards,
Phil
Continuing on from our last post, we're going to start the legs. This post will cover the pants - they'll be painted using the same color as the green shirt he's wearing. Most of the pants will be covered by a robe that is hanging from his butt (you can see the contact points for the robe on his ass in all the pics), so we're only really concerned with everything from the knees down and the outer facing parts only.
First we're going to mix a light grey and then add Green Gold to the mix. Here they are base coated:
Next we're going to shade them by creating a translucent black glaze using Carbon Black and Glaze Medium. We're going to paint this over all the paints - not just the shadow areas. Once we have the entire pair of pants covered, we'll add another couple of glazes to the shadow areas.
Now that the pants have been darkened down considerably, we need to clean them up, and reclaim our mid tones. I also believe I started to add the first of the highlights as well in this pic (the highlights where made by adding Titanium White to the grey/green gold mix).
Almost there. We need to continuing adding high lights by adding a little more Titanium White to the mix. For our highest highlights, we're going to use pure Zinc White. Compared to Titanium White, Zinc White is much "softer" and considerably less opaque (considerably). It's mainly used for color mixing, but here I'm using it as a glaze. (In this capacity, it would be very similar to Vallejo's "White Glaze" color from their Model Color range). Here is what we have on our palette:
And here are the finished paints with their final highlights added. Despite the rather high contrast in some places, I still think it comes across fairly "soft" looking - which is exactly what we want
.
I didn't have time to get to it, but we still need to paint the cloth straps right above his knees.
Hopefully, I'll find time to finished of the rest of the legs as well, and move onto the fancy dragon he has on his front!
As always, I hope you like where we're at so far!
Regards,
Phil
phil_h
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Hello everybody...
It's a little while, and much progress has been made, so I thought I'd post an update.
Unfortunately, I don't have the time to do a full walk through of all the work that was done, but please feel free to ask me any questions.
First off, the general has some rather elaborate shin guards, and shoes... they are super detailed and packed with different elements/textures (gems, cloth, lacquered wood, metal, leather) for such a small space. Here are some pics:
Very fancy indeed!
Next were the metal plates protecting his thighs...
They were done exactly the same way I described the metal shoulder covering on his back in a prior post, with the exception of some indigo tones glazed into the shadows to help show some of the ambient light from him being in an outdoor environment. I also added a pattern of jade studs on the outer rim of the black faded leather
And from the side
Next was the silk cloth in the front of the figure, which also has a rather large dragon embossed on the front. The dragon is barely sculpted on, the border of the dragon and the cloth was sculpted all right, but all the inner detail of the dragon is a mixture of freehand and following the sculpt depending on how much or how little detail was and the result I wanted.
Here is the robe base coated
Here are the green portions shaded and highlighted
Now that the green is finished, we can move onto the dragon. It's easier to clean up any of the green portions of the robe while doing the dragon, then to do the dragon first and then paint the green around it. First let's start with the body. The colors for the body are the same used in the above freehand on the circular plates in his middle, which I discussed on a prior post.
After the body, the legs are next
After the legs comes the flames that surround the dragon
After the flames, we do the tail, claws and the spikes
Next we can start the head - we start with the dragon's "mane" and horns
Finally we finish up with the head, do any necessary clean up work, and complete the robe by painting in the violet trim on the bottom.
I remember when seeing this dragon thinking it was going to be quite tedious to do because it was barely sculpted on with not so great detail, but it turned out to be a lot of fun to paint, and I was happy with the results.
With that finished, with the exception of his rather large weapon, that covers all the elements that make up the figure (the arms are painted exactly like the legs, and introduce no new colors or elements).
At this point, I can say we're almost finished
Regards,
Phil
It's a little while, and much progress has been made, so I thought I'd post an update.
Unfortunately, I don't have the time to do a full walk through of all the work that was done, but please feel free to ask me any questions.
First off, the general has some rather elaborate shin guards, and shoes... they are super detailed and packed with different elements/textures (gems, cloth, lacquered wood, metal, leather) for such a small space. Here are some pics:
Very fancy indeed!
Next were the metal plates protecting his thighs...
They were done exactly the same way I described the metal shoulder covering on his back in a prior post, with the exception of some indigo tones glazed into the shadows to help show some of the ambient light from him being in an outdoor environment. I also added a pattern of jade studs on the outer rim of the black faded leather
And from the side
Next was the silk cloth in the front of the figure, which also has a rather large dragon embossed on the front. The dragon is barely sculpted on, the border of the dragon and the cloth was sculpted all right, but all the inner detail of the dragon is a mixture of freehand and following the sculpt depending on how much or how little detail was and the result I wanted.
Here is the robe base coated
Here are the green portions shaded and highlighted
Now that the green is finished, we can move onto the dragon. It's easier to clean up any of the green portions of the robe while doing the dragon, then to do the dragon first and then paint the green around it. First let's start with the body. The colors for the body are the same used in the above freehand on the circular plates in his middle, which I discussed on a prior post.
After the body, the legs are next
After the legs comes the flames that surround the dragon
After the flames, we do the tail, claws and the spikes
Next we can start the head - we start with the dragon's "mane" and horns
Finally we finish up with the head, do any necessary clean up work, and complete the robe by painting in the violet trim on the bottom.
I remember when seeing this dragon thinking it was going to be quite tedious to do because it was barely sculpted on with not so great detail, but it turned out to be a lot of fun to paint, and I was happy with the results.
With that finished, with the exception of his rather large weapon, that covers all the elements that make up the figure (the arms are painted exactly like the legs, and introduce no new colors or elements).
At this point, I can say we're almost finished
Regards,
Phil
