HELP a newbie have major problems

[megroot]

I'am now on my first 54 mm celt from Pegaso. I did a base coat of automotive primer let it dry for 1 week and did a first coat off Vallejo medium skin.
Then i went back to my good old oils. My mix is cadmium yellow, zinc white, burnt sienna, yellow ochre, and a little touch of cadmium red.
In great bust's i have a nice skin colour, but not as nice as you guys.
When i do this mix on the 54 mm and when i go high light thing with the white, I get a grayish colour.
My figure is now for the second time in the oven cleaner.
What is wrong with the painting.
Please sombody help

 

[megroot]

I'am now on my first 54 mm celt from Pegaso. I did a base coat of automotive primer let it dry for 1 week and did a first coat off Vallejo medium skin.
Then i went back to my good old oils. My mix is cadmium yellow, zinc white, burnt sienna, yellow ochre, and a little touch of cadmium red.
In great bust's i have a nice skin colour, but not as nice as you guys.
When i do this mix on the 54 mm and when i go high light thing with the white, I get a grayish colour.
My figure is now for the second time in the oven cleaner.
What is wrong with the painting.
Please sombody help

 

[gordy]

i'm guessing yellow ochre the culprit...

expeirment combinations of colors on a spare figure...

 

[gordy]

i'm guessing yellow ochre the culprit...

expeirment combinations of colors on a spare figure...

 

[Pete_H]

I concur with Gordy - it's the yellow ochre. This color is actually more on the "greenish" side, so it's really not quite suitable with the other colors you're using. If I may, I'd suggest using gold ochre instead and get rid ot the cadmium yellow. Also, how's the zinc white working for you? I've never really heard of it used in fleshtones. Instead, titanium white is more common; I've found it to be a more "opaque" white, which balances out well when mixed with burnt sienna in fleshtones.

How about posting some pictures so we can see the effects? Perhaps we can render better advice if we can see what's going on.

Good luck!

 

[Pete_H]

I concur with Gordy - it's the yellow ochre. This color is actually more on the "greenish" side, so it's really not quite suitable with the other colors you're using. If I may, I'd suggest using gold ochre instead and get rid ot the cadmium yellow. Also, how's the zinc white working for you? I've never really heard of it used in fleshtones. Instead, titanium white is more common; I've found it to be a more "opaque" white, which balances out well when mixed with burnt sienna in fleshtones.

How about posting some pictures so we can see the effects? Perhaps we can render better advice if we can see what's going on.

Good luck!

 

[Guy]

Marc, I agree with Gordy and Pete. The yellow I believe is giving you the result your getting. Years ago when I went to tube oils for flesh, I picked up a couple of sets of spare heads, about 5 to a set without helmets, to use to practice the oils on instead of a kit I wanted to paint. It was pretty inexpensive practice material and it worked.

 

[Guy]

Marc, I agree with Gordy and Pete. The yellow I believe is giving you the result your getting. Years ago when I went to tube oils for flesh, I picked up a couple of sets of spare heads, about 5 to a set without helmets, to use to practice the oils on instead of a kit I wanted to paint. It was pretty inexpensive practice material and it worked.

 

[TomRiddle]

Dude,

Get a tube of Senniler Flesh Ocher for your base color. Shade with Mars Brown, Purple Madder, Brown Madder Alizarin. You could also add Mars Orange, Mars Yellow, and Mars Red to add variety. (I do...) Titanium White and Naples Yellow (Red Shade) are good to highlight with.

Of course, experiment away! That is a great way to learn...I still paint a strip heads just for practice.

Tom

 

[TomRiddle]

Dude,

Get a tube of Senniler Flesh Ocher for your base color. Shade with Mars Brown, Purple Madder, Brown Madder Alizarin. You could also add Mars Orange, Mars Yellow, and Mars Red to add variety. (I do...) Titanium White and Naples Yellow (Red Shade) are good to highlight with.

Of course, experiment away! That is a great way to learn...I still paint a strip heads just for practice.

Tom

 

[yeo_64]

Hi ! I used to have the same problem as yourself with oils.The other guys are right;try gold orchre instead of yellow orchre'there's less black in it Alternatively,do what I did,which switch mediums I now paint solely in Vallejo acrylics and I have Mark Bannerman to thank for it.His excellent article in www.missing-lynx.com on painting faces in acrylics will help you get started there.Hope this helps Finally,do take up the suggestion of posting some images on the web;it'll help the others to give advice more readily.Cheers :lol:
Kenneth.

 

[yeo_64]

Hi ! I used to have the same problem as yourself with oils.The other guys are right;try gold orchre instead of yellow orchre'there's less black in it Alternatively,do what I did,which switch mediums I now paint solely in Vallejo acrylics and I have Mark Bannerman to thank for it.His excellent article in www.missing-lynx.com on painting faces in acrylics will help you get started there.Hope this helps Finally,do take up the suggestion of posting some images on the web;it'll help the others to give advice more readily.Cheers :lol:
Kenneth.

 

[Pete_H]

Tom,
Good call on Sennelier's flesh ochre! I've played around with it, and found that mixing it with jaune brilliant and tit. white gives a pretty good basic fleshtone.

To all,
As far as painting fleshtones with acrylics, I'd skip "the Bannerman method" if I were you. It may yield satisfactory results for IPMS displays, but it does not render realistic results (not to mention it's not up to true historical miniature standards). Tim Flagstad - arguably amongst the best acrylics painters in the world - wrote an article for Historical Miniature (it was published in the Nov/Dec '03 issue) on this very topic. Having seen his work in person, they render amongst the most realistic results I've ever seen for this medium.

 

[Pete_H]

Tom,
Good call on Sennelier's flesh ochre! I've played around with it, and found that mixing it with jaune brilliant and tit. white gives a pretty good basic fleshtone.

To all,
As far as painting fleshtones with acrylics, I'd skip "the Bannerman method" if I were you. It may yield satisfactory results for IPMS displays, but it does not render realistic results (not to mention it's not up to true historical miniature standards). Tim Flagstad - arguably amongst the best acrylics painters in the world - wrote an article for Historical Miniature (it was published in the Nov/Dec '03 issue) on this very topic. Having seen his work in person, they render amongst the most realistic results I've ever seen for this medium.

 

[yeo_64]

Er That's me,by the way Kenneth.(The previous post by Guest-I forgot to log in )

 

[yeo_64]

Er That's me,by the way Kenneth.(The previous post by Guest-I forgot to log in )

 

[yeo_64]

Hi ! How about the article on using acrylics to paint faces by Lynn Kessler that's also featured on "Missing-lynx" I find that method pretty cool too !Cheers :lol: Kenneth.

 

[yeo_64]

Hi ! How about the article on using acrylics to paint faces by Lynn Kessler that's also featured on "Missing-lynx" I find that method pretty cool too !Cheers :lol: Kenneth.

 

[megroot]

Thanks guys. The yellow ochre and cadmium yellow are away. I get now to the shop and by me some tube off golden ochre, titanium white.
I have a lot off Vallejo paints, but i used it not for the face. I can't handle them well.
First is to try the other paint, and i buy some plastic soldiers. That's why i started in the figure painting. Because i love to paint figures in stead of AFV.

And Tom, can you send me a copy from that article, by email or by post. If only the last is possible i pay the cost.

Marc.

 

[megroot]

Thanks guys. The yellow ochre and cadmium yellow are away. I get now to the shop and by me some tube off golden ochre, titanium white.
I have a lot off Vallejo paints, but i used it not for the face. I can't handle them well.
First is to try the other paint, and i buy some plastic soldiers. That's why i started in the figure painting. Because i love to paint figures in stead of AFV.

And Tom, can you send me a copy from that article, by email or by post. If only the last is possible i pay the cost.

Marc.