Help with pitting on figure

[Bailey]

I could use some advice. I've got a metal figure with some pitting on the surface. It's not all over, just in a few spots... but those spots should definitely be smooth. I've filed and sanded the surface to clean up what I could. Now I need to apply something to fill the tiny holes. What do you all suggest? What have you found useful?

I've done some google searching, but perhaps I'm using the wrong terms because I'm not finding much that's useful. I have heard about using milliput and water, adding enough water so that the milliput breaks down and becomes a slush, then brushing it on. Is this the preferred approach or are there other ways to go about smoothing the surface before painting?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

 

[theBaron]

The first question I ask is whether the pitting looks like flaws from the casting process, or if it looks like corrosion or oxidation? Few contemporary kits show corrosion or oxidation, at least, not as frequently as some figures did back in the day of toy soldiers, or in the early days of figures. Higher percentages of lead in the alloy left some figures susceptible to "lead rot", which is oxidation. That resulted in the metal gradually turning to lead oxide powder, though, not just pitting.

But if it just looks like pitting from the casting process--it is possible for air to get trapped in molten white metal, just as bubbles form in the resin casting process--you can use thinned putty, as you described. But I would reach first for my Mr. Surfacer and apply it till the holes were filled. I also use Squadron white putty thinned with acetone, essentially a home-made Mr. Surfacer, but thicker than their thickest grade. The advantage of thinned putty is that you can brush it on and get it into the pits, and then remove the excess on the surface. You can do that by sanding, or in my case, I can use lacquer thinner (with the Mr Surfacer) or acetone (for the Squadron white), applied with a cotton swab, to remove the excess putty.

I hope that helps, prost!
Brad

 

[Bailey]

Thank you, Brad. That's extremely helpful!

Oh, and I'm fairly certain the pitting is from the casting process. I don't see any evidence of corrosion and it's a relatively recent figure.

 

[billyturnip]

Obviously it depends on the extent of the pitting but I have had success filling with super glue.

 

[theBaron]

Sure thing, Bailey! And Roger has a good point, too, super glue works well, too. The only caution I think of is that it's often harder, when it cures, than the surrounding material, so you need to be careful about sanding, because it is possible to remove more of the surrounding material. Though with white metal, I defer to Roger on that one.

Prost!
Brad

 

[DEL]

The methods I've used with equal success are the Mr Surfacer and like theBaron this is my first choice. Secondly the thinned down Miliput method and occasionally thick Humbrol enamel from the bottom of the tin.
In every case I do it in layers letting each dry.
What I also do from time to time is carefully drill into the centre of a pit creating a sort of anchor hole for the filler.

 

[frank h]

Hi
I have used the super glue ....but shook on some talcum powder .....blow off the excess
worked ok

Frank

 

[YellaMoon]

Hi David
The Mister Surfacer is a good idea. Sometimes I mix some Magic Sculpt and water into a slurry and brush on and into the pits and sand it off later. Be careful when you sand it off, whatever filler you use. I've exposed pits and holes that were under the surface by sanding to deep.
Rhodes

 

[Alex]

Apoxy sculpt and then wet sand with silicone brush a few minutes later

 

[Ferris]

Games Workshop sell an acrylic filler that works well for this. It's called Liquid Green Stuff. It's a green slush that is brushed on. After a bit of drying (minute or so) it can be wiped off, with the stuff remaining in recesses. The proces can be repeated.
I like to use this for this particular problem because sanding can be avoided. It works best on areas without other surface detail.

Adrian

 

[tonydawe]

My aircraft modelling mates swear by a technique which combines talcum powder and superglue, into a paste which is them applied to the surface with a spatula. When the excess is wiped off, its allowed to dry and then the sanding process removes the material on the surface leaving only the filled pits behind. When sanded and primed the pits are no longer visible.