How to glue tracks on Tank
- Thread starter Dolf
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Jeff T
A Fixture
This is the way I used to join flexible tracks in Tamiya kits back in the day, staples, you can hide them easy top or bottom, or with mud,....much stronger than trying to glue that type of material.
Cheer's,
Jeff.
franck edet
A Fixture
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2017
- Messages
- 1,140
hello Dolf,
a quick search gave me this : https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=stug+iii+tracks
stapples are good for the joint but won't help to get the realistic sagging etc.
enjoy
a quick search gave me this : https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=stug+iii+tracks
stapples are good for the joint but won't help to get the realistic sagging etc.
enjoy
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harrytheheid
A Fixture
Hi Dolf,
I took a short coffee break and decided to have a look through recent threads -- and almost gave birth to a litter of kittens when I read through this one because I began building Tamiya's Sherman 105mm Howitzer this morning and it comes with the "new" type of flexible tracks they claim can be joined together using normal polystyrene cement/glue.
However as I progressed through the posts I realized you were having problems with the "old" type of AFV kit vinyl tracks supplied with your Stug. I know this isn't going to help you much now and I'm glad you got sorted out eventually, but it might be useful for future scale model builds you do.
This is the first time I've seen these glue-able type of flexible tracks and was pretty dubious that the usual kit glue would work on them, so I tried joining them, but didn't bother with Tamiya's extra thin glue. I used Humbrol poly-cement and can confirm it seems to work fine. See the photo below;
The tracks themselves are nice and crisp, and appear to be a huge improvement on the vinyl types from yesteryear - which I've always stapled together and then disguised the joint with mud or snow. Now, I haven't subjected them to any kind of strain as yet, and haven't tried to put them onto the Sherman running gear yet either. Both hull half's will be going into the spray booth tomorrow and the tracks would just have to come back off again. I'll let you know if there's any problems when I do get around to installing them, or if I end up reverting back to using staples.
This next one is a question for you, or other forum members with more WW2 AFV knowledge than me. I intend to use the Howitzer Sherman in a small Ardennes diorama alongside the cast hull example in the next photo. The white Allied star decals provided in the kit have the white circle you can see on the box illustrations, whereas the cast hull Sherman's decals don't include that circle. What is the significance of the two different Allied star decals? If anyone else wants to contribute, then please do so.
I'd normally just do a hunt on the internet, but none of my search engines (DuckDuckGo & Bing) are working at the moment.
Cheers
H
I took a short coffee break and decided to have a look through recent threads -- and almost gave birth to a litter of kittens when I read through this one because I began building Tamiya's Sherman 105mm Howitzer this morning and it comes with the "new" type of flexible tracks they claim can be joined together using normal polystyrene cement/glue.
However as I progressed through the posts I realized you were having problems with the "old" type of AFV kit vinyl tracks supplied with your Stug. I know this isn't going to help you much now and I'm glad you got sorted out eventually, but it might be useful for future scale model builds you do.
This is the first time I've seen these glue-able type of flexible tracks and was pretty dubious that the usual kit glue would work on them, so I tried joining them, but didn't bother with Tamiya's extra thin glue. I used Humbrol poly-cement and can confirm it seems to work fine. See the photo below;
The tracks themselves are nice and crisp, and appear to be a huge improvement on the vinyl types from yesteryear - which I've always stapled together and then disguised the joint with mud or snow. Now, I haven't subjected them to any kind of strain as yet, and haven't tried to put them onto the Sherman running gear yet either. Both hull half's will be going into the spray booth tomorrow and the tracks would just have to come back off again. I'll let you know if there's any problems when I do get around to installing them, or if I end up reverting back to using staples.
This next one is a question for you, or other forum members with more WW2 AFV knowledge than me. I intend to use the Howitzer Sherman in a small Ardennes diorama alongside the cast hull example in the next photo. The white Allied star decals provided in the kit have the white circle you can see on the box illustrations, whereas the cast hull Sherman's decals don't include that circle. What is the significance of the two different Allied star decals? If anyone else wants to contribute, then please do so.
I'd normally just do a hunt on the internet, but none of my search engines (DuckDuckGo & Bing) are working at the moment.
Cheers
H
harrytheheid
A Fixture
Got Bing working again.
The short answer to my question about the Allied Star on AFV's is that both the Star within a circle and the Star without a circle are valid for an Ardennes scenario.
Turns out the circle was to aid ID from the air and prevent friendly fire casualties.
https://armyvehiclemarking.com/alliedstar/
The short answer to my question about the Allied Star on AFV's is that both the Star within a circle and the Star without a circle are valid for an Ardennes scenario.
Turns out the circle was to aid ID from the air and prevent friendly fire casualties.
https://armyvehiclemarking.com/alliedstar/
Henk
A Fixture
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2018
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- 1,497
Dolf, which variant of the StuG IV are you building, and which Italeri kit? The original, or the new re-box?
I have a look at my collection of Pzr.kpfwIV kits, I have aftermarket tracks for most, I may have a usable set of newer rubber tracks from Tamiya or Academy, which may be of use.
I have a look at my collection of Pzr.kpfwIV kits, I have aftermarket tracks for most, I may have a usable set of newer rubber tracks from Tamiya or Academy, which may be of use.
Dolf
A Fixture
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2018
- Messages
- 906
Thank you very much, Henk!
My problem was solved (with the Cianoacrylate from Green Stuuf World + their Accelerator) so I thank you, but now I don't need no replacement tracks.
My Stug IV I don't know if it was the new re-box, or the original kit
I think it was the original kit. But just not sure.
The Stug IV is part of my dio "The 3rd Battle of Cassino", on display here:
https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/the-3rd-battle-of-cassino.506224/
Cheers!
Dolf
EDIT: Actually I'm right now in the process of repainting the Monastery... A lot of work, as I'm also including the draws of the stones...
My problem was solved (with the Cianoacrylate from Green Stuuf World + their Accelerator) so I thank you, but now I don't need no replacement tracks.
My Stug IV I don't know if it was the new re-box, or the original kit
I think it was the original kit. But just not sure.
The Stug IV is part of my dio "The 3rd Battle of Cassino", on display here:
https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/the-3rd-battle-of-cassino.506224/
Cheers!
Dolf
EDIT: Actually I'm right now in the process of repainting the Monastery... A lot of work, as I'm also including the draws of the stones...
Henk
A Fixture
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2018
- Messages
- 1,497
Thank you very much, Henk!
My problem was solved (with the Cianoacrylate from Green Stuuf World + their Accelerator) so I thank you, but now I don't need no replacement tracks.
My Stug IV I don't know if it was the new re-box, or the original kit
I think it was the original kit. But just not sure.
The Stug IV is part of my dio "The 3rd Battle of Cassino", on display here:
https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/the-3rd-battle-of-cassino.506224/
Cheers!
Dolf
EDIT: Actually I'm right now in the process of repainting the Monastery... A lot of work, as I'm also including the draws of the stones...
You're diorama has a lot of great details, and draws the eyes around , which is what you want, and what you achieved.
I would say, that Monte Casino was full of rubble and dust, and your dio looks very clean. It would look even beter, if you add rubble around the walls, and blend the scenes together with something like pastel dust and some washes.
The balsa wood surround looks good painted black, it really pops the edges of your dio.
Dolf
A Fixture
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2018
- Messages
- 906
Yes, it's a dio made of "corners", the "kitchen corner", the "88mm corner", the "FLAK corner", the"PAK corner", etc.
And I romanticized the actual Battle. I know how that hill looked like (have lots of pictures of it), but instead of doing an historically accurate dio, I opted for a more humane view of the battlefield
For the moment, as I mention above, I'm "only" re-doing the ruins of the Monastery, it will certainly improve the look of the dio when finished...
Cheers!
Dolf
And I romanticized the actual Battle. I know how that hill looked like (have lots of pictures of it), but instead of doing an historically accurate dio, I opted for a more humane view of the battlefield
For the moment, as I mention above, I'm "only" re-doing the ruins of the Monastery, it will certainly improve the look of the dio when finished...
Cheers!
Dolf
