HOW TO LIGHT UP YOUR MODELLING BENCH - Michigan Toy Soldier Blog

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CondeJulian

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2004
Messages
382
Location
São Paulo , Brasil
Hey Guys,​
Just made a very complete article on how to correctly light up your bench, photo studio and have correct color perception, which is a very important factor in our hobby, specially if you are making historical accurate replicas.​
The article speaks all terms and what you should look for when using bench lights, with technical information and drawings, using my 25 years of experience as a Technical Director in live shows and concerts around the globe.​
Here is the link to the complete article at the Michigan Toy Soldier Blog :​
01%2BCover.jpeg
Let me know any questions,​
Best​
Julian​
 
Hi Julian,

Thanks for this excellent article.

It is obvious that halogen lighting is best for painting miniatures, but given that the whole world is moving towards LED lighting, would you be able to advise the best alternative LED light?

Rgds Victor
 
Hi Julian

Thank you for doing this presentation , very helpful ....

Nice to see Agnes the cat involved ..lol

Thats a great looking bench you have ...so well organised

Happy benchtine

Nap
 
Well done Julian...another perspective is available on Angel Giraldez you tube channel..advising two lamps..knowing your “day job” I like the technical analysis a lot..finding anything w halogen bulbs is hard here tho
 
Hi Julian,

Thanks for this excellent article.

It is obvious that halogen lighting is best for painting miniatures, but given that the whole world is moving towards LED lighting, would you be able to advise the best alternative LED light?

Rgds Victor

Victor,
At this time we don't have any commercial Led lamp available with 100% color rendering properties, so while 99 CRI Led is under study in a couple of companies, there are 98 CRI lamps in the market. Go for those, which range from 180-300 U$ each, choose warm color (3000K-3500K) and that will be the best possible scenario for LED source at this time. It's a expensive lamp, but they are made to last 10-15 years, so even at this price, it will pay off eventually. The greatness of halogens are still the cheap price and the only light source with correct rendering up to 100 CRI.
I would not invest in cheap Chinese brand lamps even at 98 CRI because they might not be. If you buy, go with GE, Osram and niche brands, otherwise you might not be getting what you paid for. You would only know the CRI with a photo sensitive device for colors, used in filming and photo industry.

Best,
Julian
 
Well done Julian...another perspective is available on Angel Giraldez you tube channel..advising two lamps..knowing your “day job” I like the technical analysis a lot..finding anything w halogen bulbs is hard here tho
I bet, it's a search for on eBay, amazon and maybe even antique stores. The halogen bulbs are easier to find.
 
Than
Hi Julian

Thank you for doing this presentation , very helpful ....

Nice to see Agnes the cat involved ..lol

Thats a great looking bench you have ...so well organised

Happy benchtine

Nap
Thanks Nap !
I am glad to share knowledge, and while at it using Agnes on my article :)

Stay safe !
Julian
 
Indeed Julian..am doing just that..Amazon, eBay...am a tech geek as well...you’ve got two points I am considering ..the light characteristics which makes sense, and then the shadow thing..I am left handed and wondering about the zenithal aspect..my present light is made by Daylight and packs a big lumen punch plus is flat, direct from above..one practical issue is that I can trip the handles of paint brushes against the thing as I tend to work close..Angel Giraldez uses two lights to achieve uniform lighting ...and maybe for fitting parts that’s good, or for his 28mm pieces..it’s a journey..and a fun intersect of the hobby and science..glad to see the VMS stuff on your shelves..it’s good stuff..your reviews and advice are straight stuff..
 
Paulo, this may be stupid question: with you focus on colour temp, cri etc..I could ask why bother if the subject isn’t shown in daylight or under like lighting? An implication being those who show their pieces may be painting under one lighting set up and showing under another
 
Paulo, this may be stupid question: with you focus on colour temp, cri etc..I could ask why bother if the subject isn’t shown in daylight or under like lighting? An implication being those who show their pieces may be painting under one lighting set up and showing under another
No prob !

I found that is a problem too, but I do it for two reasons, if the model looks good under extreme light source, with maximum color rendition and contrast, it will look better in worst light conditions. It's making the best possible to show it under bad lighting conditions such as some shows.
Second point is to take photos of the model. I as explained on the article, shoot my models in indirect sunlight without the help of any light (lamps) and the camera can catch a correct rendered model (color wise) and that is best to work the photo if needed (contrast, exposure, sharpness, water line, framing, etc) because most of us does not use a professionally calibrated monitor, such as those used under pro photography editing and video processing. Basically, making your model under the correct environment, will make it look as best as possible under not so great light environments, and also for photo shoot, such as myself that don't use pro camera setup and no photoshop and similar post editing software.
 
Victor,
At this time we don't have any commercial Led lamp available with 100% color rendering properties, so while 99 CRI Led is under study in a couple of companies, there are 98 CRI lamps in the market. Go for those, which range from 180-300 U$ each, choose warm color (3000K-3500K) and that will be the best possible scenario for LED source at this time. It's a expensive lamp, but they are made to last 10-15 years, so even at this price, it will pay off eventually. The greatness of halogens are still the cheap price and the only light source with correct rendering up to 100 CRI.
I would not invest in cheap Chinese brand lamps even at 98 CRI because they might not be. If you buy, go with GE, Osram and niche brands, otherwise you might not be getting what you paid for. You would only know the CRI with a photo sensitive device for colors, used in filming and photo industry.

Best,
Julian

Hi Julian,

Thanks for your reply. I agree with you that cheap LED lights are not recommended for fine work. Very unreliable as to ratings and even longetivity.

What a choice - $$$....sigh.

Rgds Victor
 
Hi all,

You know what ? Given the disparity in pricing, it doesn’t make sense to me to fork out that kind of moola for something that clearly does not meet my expectations. So I’m now looking around for a decent anglepoise with a 50-60 W Halogen light.

Thanks for all your kind and helpful inputs and, Julian, that wonderful article.

Rgds Victor.
 
My setup (done by me) involves fluorescent ceiling lights with made in Holland Philips F32T8/TL950 tubes ... with a CRI of 98.
this gives me perfect lighting without having any lamp on my bench ! it was the most cost effective solution when I built my studio a few years ago.
 
My setup (done by me) involves fluorescent ceiling lights with made in Holland Philips F32T8/TL950 tubes ... with a CRI of 98.
this gives me perfect lighting without having any lamp on my bench ! it was the most cost effective solution when I built my studio a few years ago.
Alex,

Fluorescent lamps by nature can't reach true value readings and their Temperature are correlated color temperature, and because of their size, they are not practical for close up bench setup.
But you have a good source, I would love to light up my house with some Kino Flo's :)

Best,
Julian
 
G
Hi all,

You know what ? Given the disparity in pricing, it doesn’t make sense to me to fork out that kind of moola for something that clearly does not meet my expectations. So I’m now looking around for a decent anglepoise with a 50-60 W Halogen light.

Thanks for all your kind and helpful inputs and, Julian, that wonderful article.

Rgds Victor.
Glad to hear I could be helpful !

Share photos of the setup later on !

Best
Julian
 
Julian, my lamp arrived today..and you are absolutely right re the light and set up..shows how white and black primers are really blue...which turns say a yellow into something dull when applied over. Also I’ve always lit from above or the left, yet am left handed...only bummer was the thing arrived w glass protective cover over bulb cracked. No big deal, I removed it to avoid the thing breaking outright and will take my chances toasting a hand or the cats their tails..thanks again..your advice is always sound and worth a try
 
Julian, my lamp arrived today..and you are absolutely right re the light and set up..shows how white and black primers are really blue...which turns say a yellow into something dull when applied over. Also I’ve always lit from above or the left, yet am left handed...only bummer was the thing arrived w glass protective cover over bulb cracked. No big deal, I removed it to avoid the thing breaking outright and will take my chances toasting a hand or the cats their tails..thanks again..your advice is always sound and worth a try
Thanks for the words and feedback.
Glad to help!

Best wishes my friend
 
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