how to prevent a crash from the drill

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For tinfigures there are several problems. The metal is soft and clogs the drill. The metal gets warm from friction and expands.

Some oil will help but the best thing is to do it in several setting as I assume a cooling system is not an option. Also clean the drill often. There are drills with different grading and different coating but not much is available in the smaller diameters as we require. Ask in a real hardware store.

A neat trick is to use a piece of rag when holding smaller metal pieces while drilling them as they can become really hot very quick from friction.

Cheers
Janne Nilsson
 
Recalling from my ancient trade assistant days......

sometimes I had to drill a bit, then take the drill bit back (while it was still turning). This helped the drill clear the build up from the hole.

I've used bees wax as a lubricant on occasion, how ever, I still insulate myself from the metal but, due to friction.

Just take it in stages, let the drill bit clear the build up, and don't throw things around too much when it happens.....;)
 
maybe try drilling a smaller pilot hole first. I imagine though like Michael says your bit is dull and/or you need to adjust your drill speed if you are using a dremel.

gary
 
Clean often, lubricate and don't drill too fast. I'd especially avoid a power drill. Drilling a pilot hole seems like a good idea, but be very careful, the smaller drill bits break more easily.
 
John brings up a very good safety point. All the more reason to always wear eye protection. get a peice of one of those baby's in your eye and you're in deep trouble. :D


gary
 
Old trick for lubricating drill bits is to use white spirit/mineral spirits. This works pretty well (since spirits can technically be classed as a type of oil) but I'd still work slowly and clear the swarf regularly by backing out. This has the advantage of not leaving any residue that might affect adhesion.

With white metal in particular I'm a firm believer in drilling a pilot hole first using power and then enlarging the hole by hand. This goes really swiftly since it's only paring off from the edges of the hole instead of boring into a solid material.

Also Marc, some drill bits are much better at cutting than others! I struggled with crappy ones for years, thinking that the amount they got stuck was just what you had to live with drilling into pewter but I treated myself to a new set a couple of years ago and they cut five times better than the ones I'd been using for the previous 25 years *doh*

Einion
 
For soft metals, WD-40 works a great, when I was a youngster working in a machine shop we'd use WD-40 for milling, lathing, drilling on aluminum
 
Well, the drills are new...bought me some drills from Dremel, and in a metal store. The last one told me that it was for soft metals, just like pewter. Cost a fortune.
The first time ( 0,5 mm) stuck into the metal (low speed, i can vary the speed on the Proxon). Take it back, cleaned and drill again. Two turns and it broke.

What i'm doing wrong??????????

For oil or some other lubricant like WD 40...how is the bounding of the glue with the oil into the hole????

More answers, more questions.

Marc
 
WD-40 or any other type of lubricant will leave a residue. That is the purpose of them so I think you need to make sure the hole and surrounding areas are clean so the glue will adhere.

Also, any chance that the bit is moving laterally or something while you drill? A bit of torque the wrong way will put a lot of stress on any kind of metal. This may cause it to break.

Gary
 
For cleaning u residue.....

hmm, given it is a small hole, tricky.

I have used isopropanol alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to remove residue from surfaces.

It breaks down stuff like WD-40, methylated soirits, and similar lubricants, and because it evapotratres so quickly, it leaves no detectable residue itslef.

However, be aware of fumes, and its flammable nature.

Maybe apply with a cotton bod of eye dropper into the drill hole?

HTH,

cheers
 
I will say that even though I have gotten drill bits stuck I have to the best of my memory never gotten a twist drill or pin vise if you will stuck in a figure. I have found that most of the metal stays together and forms long stings on the out side of the hole. It is only when I have used a power drill that I have had problems.
 
What i'm doing wrong??????????
You might be doing nothing wrong Marc, it might be the bits. But you might be putting more sideways pressure on the bit than you think? Regardless, there's a chance it's also partly due to the specific pewter they're using as they definitely vary.

When you say low speed do you know what speed that is exactly? My old Minicraft's lowest speed is something like 5,000 RPM, which is actually far too fast for drilling and grinding white metal. But even with bad drills or if the drill is spinning too fast if you work cautiously you should be able to avoid most sticking problems; before I got the new bits I think I only had one or two breaks over a period of maybe 7 years.

BTW you might want to also try talc as a lubricant, forgot to mention that above.



WD-40 or any other type of lubricant will leave a residue.
Not white spirit, that's why I mentioned it :) They're "volatile oils" and evaporate completely.

Einion
 
Do you have a pin vise? I've never used anything motorized for drilling in my pieces.

I've always avoided using a dremel at all costs.. so messy and such a hassle ;)
 
An "old school" pin vice is what I use. Any material, any surface and any size drill bit - no problem. Hand drilling allows you to work slowly and avoid mistakes caused by too much torque on the drill bit or a slip of the hand that destroys your figure. I've destroyed more figures with my dremel than any other tool.

Slow and steady wins the race, fast and speedy loses pace.
 
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