in a perfect world...

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godfather

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Messages
398
Location
Vancouver, Canada
All my figures would be primed and ready to paint..but its not a perfect world so how do you folks fill those little divets and scarches in resin figures, I think you know what I am talking about: those too deep to sand but too shallow to "accept" putty. Any sanding secrets for figures and compound curves gratefully accepted.
 
Hi Talino

Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer is good stuff. It's like thick primer. You can use it to texture surfaces, or to fill small imperfections. You sand it after it has dried.

Tamiya putty thinned with model cement can work too.

Some folks use whiteout. I find it works OK, but not as well as Mr. Surfacer.

Cheers
Andy
 
Talino,
I use a very thin layer of magic sculp feathered out over the surface in question, and I then sand it down with very find sandpaper and steel wool.
 
Talino,

I'm one of those old timers who still use Milliput for filling gaps - it has the advantage that you can feather it out with a water - moistened paintbrush or even a wet fingertip - uh, just don't go licking your fingers afterwards :) A light sanding to remove any excess, and you're good to go !

Brian
 
I've been experimenting with the AVES Apoxie Sculpt that pF member Joe Hudson obligingly sent me (y) and found that it's the perfect stuff to fill up shallow scratches, being stickier, finer in texture and feathers admirably.

Furthermore it's not prone to flaking off like the other putties do when spreaded out too thinly.

I'm currently sculpting my first piece with this putty. So far it works very well. Will get back with full report when it's finished.

In the mean time, check out the AVES website

Again, thank you Joe! :)

Q.
 
Hi Quang

Interesting.
And has anyone found out more about the claims of it being non-toxic? The website assures us of the fact, but there is no product ingredient information provided.

Andy
 
I hate to admit it, but I still use Squadron Green Stuff from my armor building days. I thin a bit with GS thinner and feather out with brush dipped in the GS thinner. I know... I know... it's nasty bad stuff but I can't get the same effect with the dang milliput a+b

Keith
 
I'm with Joe. Mix up some 2-part epoxy and spread it over the area to be covered, then wipe with your finger to get an even surface. When dry - usually overnight - sand for a smooth final surface. I use this same technique when restoring old toy soldiers made from "composition" material (glue +sawdust).

Happy painting!
 
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