Hello everybody. Lately i ve seen some excellent figures painted with josonja's artist acrylic paints. Can anybody provide some info as coverage ability, matt finish, color variety etc? I ve used mainly vallejo and andrea acrylics.
josonja's artist acrylic paints
- Thread starter jimias
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btavis
A Fixture
Great stuff and reasonably priced. Covers great, dries dead flat and extensive line of colors.
http://www.cheapjoes.com/store/navigation.asp?cat=7523&page=2&view=all
http://www.cheapjoes.com/store/navigation.asp?cat=7523&page=2&view=all
Mike you can read my mind. I was blown away when i saw the brown cape of the bust and how matt the result on a color like that was. Bob thnx for sharing these infos. I assume i should go for what is called Jo Sonja Decorative Acrylic Colors on thah site?
1969
A Fixture
I have been interested in these also but was wondering what is acrylic Gouache, i am used to oils and acrylic but wondered what the difference is with Gouache.
Steve
Steve
Einion
A Fixture
Coverage is good to excellent.jimias said:
Matt finish is very reliable.
Colour variety is pretty good - depends on whether you're comparing to VMC or artists' paints
You do have to bear in mind that they're not fluid acrylics, so you'll need to get used to thinning your paint quite a bit for use. This is tedious at times but you do get used to it (I've done it for so long I don't think about it any more). I certainly think it's worth the effort given how cost effective the paint is and how good the results.
Quite a bit cheaper on Dick Blick.btavis said:
They've changed that now, they're just called Artists' Colours now. They weren't even gouache, it was just a marketing name so that people would expect the very matt finish (which gouache is known for).1969 said:
Homepage on the Chroma site here for anyone that wants to read up on them or download the colour chart PDF.
Einion
I've used them in the past quite a bit...Einion is right on with his review of them,
They are the flattest finish I've ever dealt with...dead matte.
They used to be called velvet finish...and it is so flat, that they do give that impression.
The cost can not be compared with by any paints out there...you get a whole lot for a very reasonable price...and are a buttery consistancy leaving the tube.
Water is just fine as a medium...I read that Angus McBride used them quite a bit for his excellent military illustrations in the Osprey range.
I would say that the blended edge must be the one element to master on these (as it pretty much is on all types of paints for mini painters); otherwise coverage is as good as it gets.
Excellent for groundwork too.
They are the flattest finish I've ever dealt with...dead matte.
They used to be called velvet finish...and it is so flat, that they do give that impression.
The cost can not be compared with by any paints out there...you get a whole lot for a very reasonable price...and are a buttery consistancy leaving the tube.
Water is just fine as a medium...I read that Angus McBride used them quite a bit for his excellent military illustrations in the Osprey range.
I would say that the blended edge must be the one element to master on these (as it pretty much is on all types of paints for mini painters); otherwise coverage is as good as it gets.
Excellent for groundwork too.
btavis
A Fixture
Another excellent paint is Holbein's Acryla Gouache. A bit pricey compared to Jo Sonya but top quality.
http://www.cheapjoes.com/art-supplies/6841_holbein-acryla-artists-acrylic-paints.asp
Gouache was the historic medium for commercial artists and designers that had to have their work reproduced photographically. The attraction was the dead flatness of the paint and the fact that the color dries exactly the same as when it is wet (no hue/tint shift) Gouache is actually opaque water color closer to tempera that is soluble when it dries. In other words you couldn't get water on it without damaging it. Acrylic gouache is as Einion said but it dries insoluble. Classical gouache is also very susceptible to the oil from your fingers so you cannot touch it when dry.
One time way back when I had painted figures with real gouache and then sprayed with Dullcote to protect. I first started painting figures using casein paint which also dries dead flat. Smells great too. But none of that is necessary nowadays with so many great painting options available.
It is great to experiment with these things up to a point. I think you could probably paint exclusively with Jo Sonya if you like the buttery consistency that comes out of the tube. You just thin it with water, preferably distilled water which I pay less than a dollar for a gallon.
It also airbrushes very nicely when diluted. The formulation for the colors has been very consistent over the years as opposed to some enamel paints I have used like Humbrol.
http://www.cheapjoes.com/art-supplies/6841_holbein-acryla-artists-acrylic-paints.asp
Gouache was the historic medium for commercial artists and designers that had to have their work reproduced photographically. The attraction was the dead flatness of the paint and the fact that the color dries exactly the same as when it is wet (no hue/tint shift) Gouache is actually opaque water color closer to tempera that is soluble when it dries. In other words you couldn't get water on it without damaging it. Acrylic gouache is as Einion said but it dries insoluble. Classical gouache is also very susceptible to the oil from your fingers so you cannot touch it when dry.
One time way back when I had painted figures with real gouache and then sprayed with Dullcote to protect. I first started painting figures using casein paint which also dries dead flat. Smells great too. But none of that is necessary nowadays with so many great painting options available.
It is great to experiment with these things up to a point. I think you could probably paint exclusively with Jo Sonya if you like the buttery consistency that comes out of the tube. You just thin it with water, preferably distilled water which I pay less than a dollar for a gallon.
It also airbrushes very nicely when diluted. The formulation for the colors has been very consistent over the years as opposed to some enamel paints I have used like Humbrol.
Dimitrios; I have a feeling it is not the paint that let's Lee sang Eon paint like he does.
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28869
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28869
I wasn't saying that you did either, I didn't know if you had seen this bust he did. Freaking amazing work. I knew what you were talking about, sorry if it came across like you were looking for a magic potion. The matte finish is extraordinary. I'll be curious to hear what you think of them if you buy some.
Mike the truth is that some times words can be misleading especially in messages.Glad we solved this one though. Thanks for sharing this beatifull bust. I know just like you do that the paint doesnt make the artist but since we all spend some hours over a figure we like do get the best out of our work. Thats why i m always on the look out for mediums suitable for my taste. Cheers.
Einion
A Fixture
Welcome. Yes, just water generally works fine; you can use additional mediums for certain effects, to slow drying or improve brushing characteristics if you need to.
I think the varied finish might be due to added mediums or something brushed on after.
Einion
Peter i m not familiar with the excact brand but regarding acrylics i use either alcohol or nitric dilluter to strip the paint of the figures. The latter smells like hell and i think is quite hazardous for your lungs so i d suggest using a mask while handling it. Hope that helps.
Dimitrios,Thank you for reply.If one paints with using metal casting , then it is
no worry to remove paint. However, if we are painting for example resine or plastic
then what happens to casting if using the JoSonja Paints, or other ones ?? Will the stuff
recommended ruin casting ?
Thanks.
Peter
no worry to remove paint. However, if we are painting for example resine or plastic
then what happens to casting if using the JoSonja Paints, or other ones ?? Will the stuff
recommended ruin casting ?
Thanks.
Peter
Peter i know for sure that nitro will melt any resin or plastic object so i recommend it only for metal figures. I m not sure about alcohol. Dont think it could ruin plastic or resin though. I d use it on a spare resin part first do be 100% sure.
Piotrec
A Fixture
I have been using Josonja's acrylic since yesterday. I found them a little bit challenging in use. First I thinned them with a water or distilled water. Coverage is not very good and anytime when I apply another layer my brush lift some paint from the previous layer. So at the end on the surface you can see small debrises of dried paint all over around. I wonder what I do wrong. Maybe I should use a hair drayer to dry each layer or just wait longer between each coat?
After all this dissapointment I started to experiment with a 70% isopropyl alcohol as a dillutant. Definately is helps with the final surface, which is completely flat when finish. But the paint dries pretty quick on the brush and the coverage is much worse.
Could you guys share some experience with this paint? I mean, how do you work with them, what do you do use for dillution. What is the coverage, how many layers do you need to paint a basecoat usually?
After all this dissapointment I started to experiment with a 70% isopropyl alcohol as a dillutant. Definately is helps with the final surface, which is completely flat when finish. But the paint dries pretty quick on the brush and the coverage is much worse.
Could you guys share some experience with this paint? I mean, how do you work with them, what do you do use for dillution. What is the coverage, how many layers do you need to paint a basecoat usually?
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