Kimera

planetFigure

Help Support planetFigure:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I am always looking to improve but know I will never really get to grips with plastic paint , like you say there is a dead quality about it although D Cartcci has overcome this.
Wish I could show you the new method shown to me by D Mitchell re wet on dry with oils as its a huge jump forward but you really need to see it done in real time .and I am just grazing the surface compared to Dave.

cheers Ron

Didn't I send you my wet on dry oil techniques guide some time ago?
 
Ronaldo- for giggles I just laid out on palette and a junk piece some Kimera magenta, pr122..some AK intense tube magenta, Amm by Mig, and an American brand Pro-acryl magenta ..a favoured brand for gamers and fantasy..and Old Holland magenta..all acrylics but the Kimera were horribly pink..varying in opacity, but just pink..the Kimera, OH were same..transparent, deep red-blue..and by adding ti white I mixed to match the others..telling me all the acrylic makers but Kimera adulterate with white- cheapest pigment going...so, for my money Kimera is closest to what an oil painter is familiar with..and for me, it’s most useful to not have to backtrack from a mixed colour to achieve what I know from my art and colour background- dye chemistry and colour
 
Check Dmitry Feseschko for an oil painter as good with oils as Kirill with acrylics. Am biased as he’s a solid friend.

I took your advice and watched his youtube tutorials. Very useful information on laying out a palette and using opaque vs transparent paints. Thanks a lot for pointing this out grasshopper.
 
It’s not a style..it’s a layout of the materials, then two to three step process..one with opaque and unthinned..second with touch of megilp, malbutter or similar and transparent..which is to add high key elements lost with colour sink of many opaque..finally if desired acrylic touches..he lays out the paint with his opaque on one side, the transparent opposite..

but it’s not a style at all..it’s a technique ..he has several pieces on YouTube offering very detailed explanations, an article in Figurementors ..for the YouTube he asks those finding it useful to make a donation vs a paywall. He lives by his art, 1/1 and miniatures.

He is also a proponent of different oil brands for canvass and for miniatures. Many brands have coarser grind in some hues, or are very soft....it’s really taking a medium intended for canvass and trying to pick and choose for miniatures
 
With the videos still fresh in my mind, I would like to make a small correction. Dmitri uses malbutter with the opaque paints to make them dry faster andneo meglip (and some white spirit) with transparent paints.
Ron, easiest to just watch the videos. There's just three tutorials, totalling some 2.5 hours. Meanwhile, examples of my painting are here on PF but I wouldn't blame anyone but myself for them.
 
I stand corrected Henk. I don’t have access to malbutter. So don’t use any for opaque.
‘Ronaldo, if you have the Kirill book or look on Putty&Paint ..quarter a few examples of Dmitry. Also he’s on FB.
 
I think most of us Oldies learnt to paint in Oils, with a few enamels and Water based paints used for specific jobs, and, although I do have some acylics, I tend to stick with what I know. Like Ron, I've been using Oils since the early 70s, and I've yet to see a convinsing horse as good or better than you can acheive in Oils. I do use Jo Sonya for different textures of clothes, and some Perlesent inks for painting silks, but the rest is oils. Ray
 
Back
Top