Lacquer finish

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DEL

A Fixture
Joined
Aug 9, 2004
Messages
7,618
Location
Glasgow 'no mean city'
Hi all, some advice please.
Having spent countless hours trying to eradicate sheen I'm now wanting to create a lacquered finish on a helmet.
Question is am I better using a varnish over a matt black or should I use gloss black enamel ?
Advice most welcome.
Normally I'd be happy to experiment and strip the finish off if necessary but I've done a lot of metallic finishes that I don't want to lose.
 
Del,
With the Alclad finishes they go over a smooth gloss black. Buff the surface first to get a very smooth base before the black. These finishes show up the slightest hair,dent scratch etc. This is from aircraft guys.
Cheers
John
 
Hi Del.....if it is a metal lacquer finish you want the you can do the usual...and coat it after it's dry.....'Alclad' is not suitable for brushing (airbrush only!)....
Mr Metal (Gunze) do a buffable range of metalics....you clean your brushes with alcahol.....and have to keep stirring the colour for best results....

If...on the other hand you are referring to a 'wooden' lacquer finish...i.e. piano type....it would be best to use a matt black base...then mix some acrylic black with an acrylic gloss varnish and apply over the base....
 
Thanks John and Ron.
It's a Korean Generals helmet but I want that high gloss piano finish so using Ron's suggestion I'll have a practice using my much misused Pili Pili Geronimo bust.
This poor fella has been painted every colour imaginable and stripped.
 
Try a clear, paste wax. Used that technique on several Samurai figures. Give a correct, in scale sheen. Just test on a piece of scrap first. Some paints can be lifted by the wax.
 
Hi Del: I suggest you try several of the methods that
our fine Planeteer modelers have suggested. BUT, . . . but try
those methods on a spare part, something that doesn't
matter if you mess it up. I try to remember never to
start something I'm not completely familiar with in
modeling on my "model" without first learning the
lessons on a spare part that doesn't count! Good
luck. The Miami Jayhawk
 
Thanks pkess and Rick.
I use an old Pili Pili Geronamo bust to practice finishes on. It's been painted every colour imaginable and stripped.
As pkess points out the 'in-scale' sheen is important to get right. Too high a gloss and I'm certain it would attract the eye and detract from the finished work.
 
Forgot to mention another option Del....W&N 'Liquin'.....great for a lacquer type finish....you can apply as many coats as you want....to get the level/scale of shine you require...
Bonus is...you don't have to use it with just oils....works equally well with acrylics or matt enamels (y)
 
Cheers Ron. I'll add that to poor old Geronimo.
I've just remembered I've got a bottle of Johnstons Klear in the Cellar.
The piece I'm doing is a Korean General, the one with the black, red and yellow scale armour. I've had it for years having picked it up from someone on here I think.
Might have been a MiG product sculpted by Young but all the one's I've seen have a 'bandana' type scarf where mine doesn't.
 
You may try Vallejo glossy black.. straight from the bottle without any diluting.


cheers
alex
 
Did you manage to get the result you wanted?

Pretty near using the Klear. I put it on the back burner a couple of months ago and have just looked at it.
It's OK and almost too glossy, in fact I'm going to strip it and go for a more satin finish.
I know the glossy is accurate but it just looks too toy like.
 
Pretty near using the Klear. I put it on the back burner a couple of months ago and have just looked at it.
It's OK and almost too glossy, in fact I'm going to strip it and go for a more satin finish.
I know the glossy is accurate but it just looks too toy like.
I'm glad you said that. I was planning on using gloss varnish on a samurai bust but was wondering if satin would work better. You just made that decision easier. Thank you.
 
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