WIP Critique Lair Sweet Lair

[Larry Esposito]

So this is my first attempt at figure painting and a diorama. My first purchases were mostly determined by what's on sale. I found this figure at CMON on sale, I really liked the figure and mount, not sure what fantasy genre or story he is from, but maybe that is why he is mysterious...some sort of human killing goblin...

Here is a picture from the Nocturna Models box art:

I originally got an idea of building a scene where this fellow is returning from a trip hunting, or whatever he does. I wanted to make his cave surrounded by blue lava (to play off his hair color), but I figured that was too much for me with my present modeling skills. Here is the overall scene:

The totem poles mark his territory...made from some beads found at Micheal's. I have since made a torch to mount outside the opening. Scenery has a lot of painting and details to do yet..

Here is the figure so far...he needs a lot of work yet, same with the "battle deer". I need to connect his arms and weapons, I used Scale75 metallics on his armor, but have not weathered them yet...also, some things started to chip from all the handling.

I somehow managed to make these two pictures, with bloken...not sure how I did it since I'm not photographer and had the camera on auto. But would like any tips as to how to blur the background. That fit the sort of mood I was aiming for.

I've been watching YouTube, reading this site and others for the past 2 months...have the miniature mentor videos too. I'm still searching for my painting style...would welcome any and all kinds of feedback.

Thanks,

Larry

 

[Babelfish]

Good start Larry, and a great idea with the cave and totems. I really like the concept. Keep us posted on your progress, and welcome to pF.

- Steve

 

[Dan Morton]

Fantasy is not really my cuppa, but this is cool! One tip - work on removing the seams on the horse - they're too easy to spot.

All the best,
Dan

 

[Larry Esposito]

Good start Larry, and a great idea with the cave and totems. I really like the concept. Keep us posted on your progress, and welcome to pF.

- Steve

Thanks Steve, I appreciate it.

 

[Larry Esposito]

Fantasy is not really my cuppa, but this is cool! One tip - work on removing the seams on the horse - they're too easy to spot.

All the best,
Dan

Those seams must have really distracted you...It's a deer, not a horse!

Seriously though, I did spend quite a bit of time trying to get rid of that seam on his backside. It is smooth and even to the body...what else should I do? Do I use modeling putty and then feather the edges? I've checked the only other pictures of this model (on CMON) and the seam is visible there too...even by a much more experienced modeler than I.

I know it sounds like a basic question, but what would you do?

Thanks for the feedback

 

[billyturnip]

Nice work Larry, looking forward to seeing how this progress'.
A solution to the seam line problem would be to manufacture a crupper from foil or tape. Something like this, that would hide it.

 

[pgarri27]

That's an ugly looking rider. Your diorama scene is looking good. Great idea.

 

[Larry Esposito]

Nice work Larry, looking forward to seeing how this progress'.
A solution to the seam line problem would be to manufacture a crupper from foil or tape. Something like this, that would hide it.

Whoa! what a great idea...I didn't know such a thing existed. This will give me and opportunity to try my hand with green stuff. Thanks for the tip!!

 

[Dan Morton]

LOL - You got me Larry! Yeah, it's not a horse. Just didn't look closely at that.

Raised seam lines on a resin casting can be a pain in the keester. I usually begin by scraping a raised seam with a scalpel blade. If that doesn't completely remove it, I sand and if necessary fill with a combination of MagicSculpt and Kneadatite. The mix I use is anything from 70/30 to 50/50 - MS/Kneadatite.

For sanding, I use nail sanding boards [see photo]. You can get varying grits, just like lighter grade sand paper. Suppliers don't usually give you the grit number, but you can figure it out. I like them because they resist becoming deformed and torn like paper. Hobby suppliers stock a variation of the boards. If the model surface is still rough, then you can use steel wool to smooth it.

And wear smooth and tight-fitting nitrile rubber gloves when working with the putties. All the two part air-drying putties are potential allergic sensitizers that can cause skin irritation, moderate to severe eye irritation and respiratory issues.

Roger's suggested solution is great and is probably the one I'd choose if the seam line just can not be removed.

OK - I've probably said too much, but I hope this helps.

All the best,
Dan

 

[billyturnip]

You're welcome Larry, let us know how it works out.

 

[Larry Esposito]

Thanks Dan and Rog, Hoping to get some modeling time in this weekend. Going to try Roger's suggestion with Greenstuff. I have Greenstuff and Super Scultptey on hand , but never really made anything, except a torch flame. Roger - not sure what you meant by foil? Aluminum foil? Any advice?

 

[Larry Esposito]

Got a bit of time this weekend:

My solution to the seam problem. This chain is what he uses to drag his victims...he has severed heads after-all (not a nice guy!). I attached some chain to the front armor and fashioned attachment points. Still weathering the chain...might add a victim to the shackle at the end some day.

made some progress on the figure itself. Only areas about finished are the skin and purple clothes. I'm pretty happy with how the purple cloth came out:

Some progress on the severed heads

now for help section:

Does this fire look realistic? what can I do to fix the paint job, and which angle of the sculpt looks better. Conversely, should i just start over?

Front:

Side:

Back:

Thanks for looking.

 

[Larry Esposito]

Almost forgot...my obligatory "dramatic shot"

 

[peedee]

Hi Larry, loving the look of this, well done so far, but the
'fire' is too red overall.

The base of the torch is hotter than the top of the flame,
and so is much whiter.

To paint fire correctly, paint from the bottom up.

Begin by painting overall white with a touch of yellow.
This is the hottest part of the flame, and should stay this colour through the following process.

Now, gradually and sparingly change the colour upwards on the outer surface through oranges and finally red and orange mixed at the tips of the flames where they are coolest.

I hope this makes sense and is of some help.

There are a couple of step by step vids on you tube showing exactly this process.
Just search for 'painting fire'.

I am really looking forward to seeing this progress, it's very imaginative and a great concept.

Should end up as the Dogs Bollocks in my opinion

Paul.

 

[Larry Esposito]

Thanks for the fire tips Paul. I did watch a tutorial, my original paint job had more white and yellow..I got carried away with the orange wash. One issue I did have was the white was appearing unpainted...I will try a repaint

 

[peedee]

Enjoy

CHEERS mate!


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