Lamellar armor

[Venko]

Hi,
Any ideas, tips etc. how to sculpt overlapping lamellar armor in 75mm?
I'm really stuck with this now, tried with stamps, but the result is not very convincing.
I consider making it in Blender and 3D printing, but wonder if the layers will be noticeable in that scale.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Sergey]

This type?

 

[Venko]

It is for a horse barding of Sassanid savaran. The plates have multiple connection ropes.
Something like in the below picture (not the same, of course). I tried with greenstuff and stamp, what do you think-is it good for 75mm?
Greenstuff is flexible and does not break, but hard to clean around the edges, Magic sculp is too fragile for making long strips, Fimo also.

 

[NeilW]

I face the same problem with 1/12th scale Japanese laminar armour.

The best method so far has been to create a master strip then from that a mould so you can 'press-mould' strips to cut to size and lay over each other.(similar to the greenstuff example). I you

I'm sure a proper mould would be better, but I've been experimenting with re-usable Bluestuff thermoplastic. There's lot's of guidance online, eg here.

These are just first (far from perfect) attempts as 'proof of concept' (the second one shows experimental mouldings in Das/Milliput/Greenstuff from my model's face and from the PM mounted samurai) :

 

[Venko]

I have some silicone left and will try with master, thanks!
I tried the Bluestuff method, but with mixed results, although it makes really good print, surprisingly

 

[Sergey]

Form what you have done. Then repeat as NEIL suggested. I use Magic Sculpt while it's still in place.

 

[DaddyO]

Hi Venko

Not made any lamina armour so very interested in your examples. I have found that mixing Greenstuff and Magic Sculpt (or Miliput) 50/50 gives some of the flexibility of Greenstuff without the problems of cleanup afterwards. I've used this technique for horse caprison's and long coat tails in 54mm

Cheers
Paul

 

[Venko]

The other way I thought about is cutting the plates from thin plastic sheet (they will be same thickness) and then gluing with overlapping, but how to do the strings.
Maybe I will try this also, will be time consuming, but we'll see

 

[Nap]

Hi Venko

What a good question and interesting replies from many

Look forward to seeing how this progresses for your piece

Happy sculpting

Nap

 

[Oda]

This type?
View attachment 420096

Wow,wow,wow,wow!!!!!!What gorgeous figure is this Sergey and why isn't it out on the Market yet????

Oda.

 

[NeilW]

The other way I thought about is cutting the plates from thin plastic sheet (they will be same thickness) and then gluing with overlapping, but how to do the strings.
Maybe I will try this also, will be time consuming, but we'll see

I tried doing this using various materials with various threads. Came to the conclusion that it is difficult to get a good effect and it would drive you mad (think how many separate laminae would be needed!)

At the very least it would require a punch/stamp, press drill and a jig

... or maybe try photo etching?

 

[Venko]

I made a mold with Bluestuff and pour resin, I will show the result soon
It is quicker

 

[Venko]

Photoetch is not a bad idea, you can make thin long strips, it is strong and will not break.

 

[Venko]

Here is the experiment with the Blue stuff mold.
The material is two part resin, creamy color, sorry . I will sand the bottom to make it very thin and cut to shape, then with heating to making it more flexible, I will "dress" the horse.
The rows are intentionally not straight, to represent the moving of the plates, I will add damage also

 

[NeilW]

Looking good... much better than my experiments

 

[Sergey]

works out fine