Lamp boxes - do they actually work

planetFigure

Help Support planetFigure:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Babelfish

A Fixture
Staff member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
5,865
... for speeding up the drying of oils?

I have heard/read conflicting reports on them. Some painters seem to swear by them, others claim that they don't make the slightest bit of difference and are a complete waste of time.

I had one made up a couple of years or so ago but have barely used it. When I first got it, I did try it with a couple of figures (wet-on-wet oils over an acrylic base, my usual method), but the process seemed to be taking forever with no discerable results, so in the end I just gave up and eventually the figures matted down naturally sufficiently for me to happy with them. After that I didn't bother with it.

Now I've decided to give it another go and have dug it out.

I'd be interested to know what others think of them and what your own experiences are. Are there any tips and pitfalls to them? And if they do work, how long do you need to leave a figure in there before you start seeing results?

- Steve
 
Hi Steve,

I've had good results with my homemade box. Paint dries with a nice matt finish. Regarding the time taken, it depends on the paint and how thick it is. Some paints dry naturally in a day or two while others take over a week to dry out properly naturally, it depends on the pigment. Umbers dry quickly for example but cadmiums take ages and are still wet for days after application. I've found that most paints dry within 24 hours in the box, even the cads.

Maybe you need a more manly bulb ;) My box is simply a cheap clear plastic box with a lid. I drilled out the centre of the lid and fitted a switched bulb holder and installed a vivarium heat bulb. I just need to be careful not to put a plastic or resin figure too close to the bulb but white metal is fine. I've already nearly destroyed one expensive piece of resin (every day's a schoolday).

Hope this helps,
Billy :)
 
Thanks for the feedback thus far, chaps.

Billy, that is a very good point about the bulb. Sometimes the most obvious answers are hiding in plain sight.

I've just had a look and have found that the bulb in there at the moment is only 40W, which I suspect may be a bit too "girlie".

I think I'll try and get hold of a more "Sly-Stallone-in-his-prime" 100 W bulb and see if that makes a difference.

- Steve
 
Hello Steve
I work with oils over an enamel or acrylic undercoat, over the years I've had some good results using my homemade lamp box to dry & matt down the oils, I only use the box for drying painted clothing (never Flesh) you do tend to have some loss of highlights, in particular if the figure has been in the box for too long, dark blue being the worst, but then you can add on further enhanced highlights once the figure has fully dried, I still prefer to use the box rather then reaching for the dullcote (once paint has dried naturally), I've recently had a few problems with a 200mm Zouave dark blue tunic drying in the box I placed it too close to the 60Watt bulb & the paint began to blister in a few places, but that was my own fault in trying to get the paint to dry quicker (won't be doing that again:whistle:) In fact it has made consider moving on to acrylics just for clothing but I've now gone back to what I know best "Oils" On the whole, yes a lamp box works fine & is a useful piece of kit.
Cheers
Jim

P.S. Steve I'd be careful using a 100watt bulb as I think it'll be too hot, try a 60watt first, I find it works okay but that is a "normal" type rather then one of these new farty eco friendly type bulbs.
 
Cheers Jim. I was talking to a friend about this at my local model club last night and he says that he "blasts" his under a 100 W bulb (but for shorter periods), with the metal getting very hot.

I guess it's a question of trying different things out, so might be an idea to get a range of different wattage bulbs and experiment (with care!)

- Steve
 
Steve
I forgot to mentioned: my box is made of plywood 14 inches square by 8 inches wide, internally lined with foil, with a 60watt, the size & construction of the box will make a difference to the bulb wattage to use, just thought I'd mention this but I expect you've already worked this one out.
(y) Cheers
Jim
 
You'll struggle to get anything higher than 60W these days Steve (it's the law apparently). That's why I went for a vivarium bulb, they're designed to be warm, not bright. I'll post some links later when I'm at home (y)

Cheers,
Billy
 
I use it from week two when i started painting figures with oils. Untill today I do that.
I use a plywood box with a 60 W lightbulb in it. The whole inside of the box is with aluminium foil.
Thin paint dryed usely in 2-4 hours. Blue's stay there overnight.

marc
 
Marc, that's a similar set-up to mine. I have now ordered some 60 W bulbs and also some 100 W ones to try both out.

I don't think that my current 40 W bulb is cutting the mustard at all. I've had the Pegaso 90mm U.S. Marine in there most of the day for the past 2 days and still there's a satin sheen on him, although it has matted down a bit compared to when he was freshly painted.

- Steve
 
Hi Steve I made up a box with a metal biscuit tin and two 40 watt bulbs, Beware the tin gets hot so let it cool for a bit before opening.
I have found that about 5 or 6 minutes will sufficiently matt the paint for me but I have also found that the thinner the layer the better. The oven effect also requires that you have heavier shadows and brighter lights as the baking dulls both.

Hope this helps

John
 
I had a recent brain fart and tried to do some painting with oils like I used to years ago and used a slow cooker as my drying box. Worked a treat as there is no hot spots that can happen with bulbs. Sorry oilers I went back to acrylic, just could not get the oils right.
 
Thanks for the feedback thus far, chaps.

Billy, that is a very good point about the bulb. Sometimes the most obvious answers are hiding in plain sight.

I've just had a look and have found that the bulb in there at the moment is only 40W, which I suspect may be a bit too "girlie".

I think I'll try and get hold of a more "Sly-Stallone-in-his-prime" 100 W bulb and see if that makes a difference.

- Steve

For fecks sake don't do that :eek: 60w will be enough :cool: or you will end up with a mound of resin .
I always find that oils never really dull down much if painted over acrylics and matt better if the base coat is Humbrol or Tamiya both applied with the airbrush ,and it depends on how thick and which pigment you use ,also the students oils have a tremendous amount of linseed in them ; so much so I keep well clear and only use artist quality ,another point i have noticed recently is that oils matt better on resin figures as opposed to metal but that may be me just talking tosh :)
 
For fecks sake don't do that :eek: 60w will be enough :cool: or you will end up with a mound of resin .
I always find that oils never really dull down much if painted over acrylics and matt better if the base coat is Humbrol or Tamiya both applied with the airbrush ,and it depends on how thick and which pigment you use ,also the students oils have a tremendous amount of linseed in them ; so much so I keep well clear and only use artist quality ,another point i have noticed recently is that oils matt better on resin figures as opposed to metal but that may be me just talking tosh :)



Ooops forgot to mention I only use the cooker with white metal figures!!!
 
Back
Top