megroot
A Fixture
Oke Guy's,
I hope Roger and I have your attention, and if you like this treath we really wanted to know.
Is the Pilar becoming a modelpilar????
Go on reading and enjoy our second part of making a greek pilar part 2
Marc and Roger
Photo 13: Take fine sandpaper and sand the surface. Spray a few layers of priming so that things can be glued better.
Photo 14 + 15: We are going to glue some plastic ribs on the pillar, so this is needed to mark the places on the top and the bottom.
Photo 16: But first we need a base ornament. This is not necessary, Greek columns don’t need one. They can stand on a floor without it.
With a marker, horizontally placed on a low platform, and by turning the base against the point, we draw a line.
Photo 17: A 2mm solder wire is shaped and glued to the bottom.
Photo 18: A thinner one is glued around the top line.
An L-profile is also possible
Photo 19: Thin, plastic bars with a i-profile are cut.
Photo 20: Fix the column with some plastiline so that we can use both hands. The bars are glued with rapid-glue.
Photo 21: The gaps between the ribs are now filled up, one by one, with putty (Tamiya, Revell…).
Photo 22: With a plastic glove (to shape a smooth surface) we push the putty quit hard into the space between the ribs.
Photo 23: Let it all dry completely.
Photo 24: Sand all the putty and bring up a second layer of putty. Let it dry again and sand it.
Photo 25: Glue two plastic strips against the ribs and around the pillar.
Photo 26: Make a sausage of Milliput or Magic sculp and push it between the strips and the lead wire. Shape with a round object the putty.
Photo 28/ The result. Now all we need is a capital and a piece of tympanum.
Marc and Roger
I hope Roger and I have your attention, and if you like this treath we really wanted to know.
Is the Pilar becoming a modelpilar????
Go on reading and enjoy our second part of making a greek pilar part 2
Marc and Roger
Photo 13: Take fine sandpaper and sand the surface. Spray a few layers of priming so that things can be glued better.
Photo 14 + 15: We are going to glue some plastic ribs on the pillar, so this is needed to mark the places on the top and the bottom.
Photo 16: But first we need a base ornament. This is not necessary, Greek columns don’t need one. They can stand on a floor without it.
With a marker, horizontally placed on a low platform, and by turning the base against the point, we draw a line.
Photo 17: A 2mm solder wire is shaped and glued to the bottom.
Photo 18: A thinner one is glued around the top line.
An L-profile is also possible
Photo 19: Thin, plastic bars with a i-profile are cut.
Photo 20: Fix the column with some plastiline so that we can use both hands. The bars are glued with rapid-glue.
Photo 21: The gaps between the ribs are now filled up, one by one, with putty (Tamiya, Revell…).
Photo 22: With a plastic glove (to shape a smooth surface) we push the putty quit hard into the space between the ribs.
Photo 23: Let it all dry completely.
Photo 24: Sand all the putty and bring up a second layer of putty. Let it dry again and sand it.
Photo 25: Glue two plastic strips against the ribs and around the pillar.
Photo 26: Make a sausage of Milliput or Magic sculp and push it between the strips and the lead wire. Shape with a round object the putty.
Photo 28/ The result. Now all we need is a capital and a piece of tympanum.
Marc and Roger
