Matt finish in oils

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tonydawe

A Fixture
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
8,280
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Hi guys

Does anyone have any tips for getting a consistently flat matt finish with oil paints? Too often when I use oil paints I end up with an annoying (and unrealistic) sheen on surfaces that should be dead flat:mad: .

This is one of the reasons why I switched to acrylics.

Any help would be appreciated:) .
Cheers
 
Dull Coat. Nuf said.

Can someone link Tony to that really lenghty thread we had on this a while back please. Drying booths, crock-pots, heating lamps OH MY!

Jay H.
OKC
 
Hi Jay

Thanks mate, I use dullcote, but unfortunately when you spray it on everything (including the bits that you want to leave shiny) is reduced to a mono-flat finish.

Cheers
 
Tony-

You can try a diluted application of acrylic dull coat with a brush rather than using a can or airbrush. For me, this gives more control.

Some oils are just more naturallly shiny. I never use a Prussian Blue. But, WN French Ultramarine and WN Blue are less shiny. I am working on a dark blue trousers for a Zouave now. The other items that I have done to get a flat finish are soak out some of the carrier by placing the glob of paint on card board for 10 mins. Do not use ANY thinner or linseed oil. Place in dry box (60W bulb in wood box).

I still get a tad of shine but not as bad. But, I have never gotten the same dull as I can get from the Acrylics or enamels....

Keith
 
Marc, Keith & Jay

Thanks for your help. I'm glad I'm not the only one who struggles with this.

I have used Testors Dullcote for many years, and it is usually very good at creating a matt finish. I'll try spraying and masking the dullcote and see if that helps.

I will certainly stay away from Prussian Blue; its the worst offending colour when it comes to shinyness (is that a word?).
 
Hi Tony

My way of 'controlling' oils is using a paper palette to get rid of extra oil, mix a bit of titanium white with ceratin colours help. Another must have is a 'baking oven' I made one from a wooden box covered in alumium foil to generate heat and just palce a bulb at the top. Some colours especially reds and blues take more time to cure [sometimes hours] beware when using resins and palstic and also that metal might get very hot!

Using turpentine and mat medium sometimes help ... especially when using an acrylic basecoat. Work in glazes and you get a much better effect as the flat figure painters. I do not like using flat varnishes as they tend to change the viscosity of colour especially shadows ...

PS - Prussian Blue is 'controlable' with using a warm grey colour to blend in ... tends to matthen up, my worst colour to control is Blue Black, Cadmium Reds and some Purples ...

Hope it helps!

Ivan
 
To summarize my advice:
1. Put oil paint on card or towel for 15 minutes to let oil seep out.
2. Mix paint with thinner to achieve a thin, milk-like consistency.
3. Pop in a dry box or crock pot (slow cooker) for 5 hrs at low with lid adjar.

Good luck.
 
I will repeat it again. A drying box is a must for every oil painter. I use Talens, W&N,Maimeri oils and never had any problems with any color. I use Prussian, Indigo, Reds anything.. and all the time my colors dry matt. A 5-6 hours in the drying box (60W bulb) and you will be fine.

Xenofon
 
It is nothing more then citrus turpentine. It smells like an orange, but it is just turpentine.
The solvents that smell like oranges are not turpentine at all (turpentine is something very specific in English, not a generic term); "citrus-based" solvents are generally a mixture of common white spirit/mineral spirit with added limonene.

Einion
 
Thanks Einion.
It is always some word what is misunderstood here. Terpentine,Turpentine, White spirit. We all mix it when we speak.
In Holland Turpentine is to make the paint thinner, just like white spirit.
I thought there is one who is on a natural base and that is what we looking for.
So, this one is White Spirit (that is not turpentine) with some limonene, if i understand it correct.

Marc
 
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