Metallics... does everyone use printers ink?

[Phil5000]

Hi there. I'm new to historical figures. I'm doing a viking and I've run into trouble with metallic parts like his helm and sword.

I've read other posts and printers ink seem to be used widely. But are there other paints and techniques? I'd also prefer to use acrylic or enamel and not laquer like the mr metal color ones.

I've dabbled with Humbrol metal cote and tried polished steel and flat aluminium. The steel is basically nearly black, and the aluminium is silver. Neither are what I want. I tried to mix them but the silver doesn't seem to want to mix. You get the pigment forming little streaks.

I'd really appreciate people sharing their techniques on some of these terrific figures on here.

Thank you kindly.

 

[Vikingz]

If you want to stick with enamels Testors Model Masters Brand has a good assortment of metallic shades (supposedly for airbrush only?). Aluminum plate ,stainless steel, magnesium, burnt metal to name a few....About 10yrs ago I came across these metallic powder kits (again for airbrush only?) from SnJ model products, I just use the powders with the medium from the testors before shaken. The last few weeks I've been lazy to break out the enamels and just been using the water based acrylics in various shades able to mix the colors fine with good results.

 

[Phil5000]

Originally posted by Vikingz@Jan 30 2006, 11:55 PM
If you want to stick with enamels Testors Model Masters Brand has a good assortment of metallic shades (supposedly for airbrush only?). Aluminum plate ,stainless steel, magnesium, burnt metal to name a few....About 10yrs ago I came across these metallic powder kits (again for airbrush only?) from SnJ model products, I just use the powders with the medium from the testors before shaken. The last few weeks I've been lazy to break out the enamels and just been using the water based acrylics in various shades able to mix the colors fine with good results.

Thanks dude. The helmets and the rims of the shields on those vikings are JUST what I'm looking for. I'd love to be able to get mine like that.

 

[carpo]

Hi Phil,
I recommend you take a look at various V-benches,
There you can see how other people do their metallics.
When you see someone who's work you like, ask them directly how they went about getting their results.
I do use metal cotes by humbrol but by treating them with various washes, you can tone down the bright finish you describe.
I'd stay away from their polished steel though.
Carpo

 

[DaveCox]

I use acrylic paints by Forge Miniatures in the UK for metallics. Each pack has 6 paints, three shades each of two colours; so for metals I have bronze, gold and highlighted gold, and deep, middle & light steel colours. By using these I get shaded effects, and with a coat of Tamiya smoke tint over these a worn effect.

 

[Flyingkiwi]

Another simple method is to simply polish the metal part (assuming it is a metal figure) then coat with Tamiya Smoke.
Good Luck
Clinton

 

[Guy]

I have never used printers inks. I use floquil enamels with a black wash over gunmetal and drybrush back with old silver.

 

[Jim Patrick]

I've played around with Alcad II paints (geared mainly towards aircraft) but find myself going back time and time again to Gunze Sanyo Steel. It's an acrylic color and can easily be manipulated with some vallejo acrylic colors (if you need it darker or brighter).

Jim Patrick

 

[Bluesking]

I regularly use bronze powder mixed with clear varnish or oil colour. It comes in Bright Gold, Old Gold, Copper and a SIlver shade.

 

[Figure Mad]

Hi guys

I am lucky enough to be in the print industry and have had the fortune to be able to get hold of oil based golds and silvers that are used for lithographic printing, I find these have a very small pigment that makes it smoother and more real looking, also they are not bright gloss but have a satin finish. They can also be mixed with Humbrol paints, oils, and thinnned with enamel thinners. I have also found that these have a better pigment than the ‘Printers Inks’ sold as metal paints at shows, having tried these out a while back.

I have also tried Rose Gold, which is agold powder that is mixed with a sort of varnish to bind the pigment together this is also very very good, but very expensive.

If you need to get ahold of some, you should be able to go to a local printers and ask the guys who work there to drop a little into a small jar for you... they may well obligde for a small beverage of some sort... :lol:

Dave

 

[Major_Goose]

Guys that use Tamiya smoke , do u thin it with water or not at all ?

 

[garyjd]

I don't know if they're still made but Gunze Sanyo (spelling?) made some nice mattalics that buff up looking fairly realistic.~Gary

 

[arthur]

Originally posted by Major_Goose@Jan 31 2006, 07:01 AM
Guys that use Tamiya smoke , do u thin it with water or not at all ?

Costas,
I use Tamiya acrylics for my AFV models and unfortunatelly you should not mix them with water.
You have to use Tamiya thinner, especially if airbrushing.

As per original question even though I now use only printers inks, I know that silver or gold Vallejos with overspray of Tamiya Smke give a decent result for metal meffects

 

[Einion]

I don't use printers' inks either, although I would if I had them as some of the things it can do are better than anything else I've seen because of the really tiny pigment particles.

Originally posted by Phil5000+Jan 31 2006, 05:34 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Phil5000 @ Jan 31 2006, 05:34 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>I've read other posts and printers ink seem to be used widely. But are there other paints and techniques? I'd also prefer to use acrylic or enamel and not laquer like the mr metal color ones.[/b]

For a really high-shine finish like polished plate steel or many sword blades I think that Alclad II are hard to beat, although they have to be airbrushed which can be a problem. But many of the other paint systems that rely on buffing are nearly as good and some of them can be applied by brush which doesn't hurt.

<!--QuoteBegin-Phil5000@Jan 31 2006, 05:34 AM
I've dabbled with Humbrol metal cote and tried polished steel and flat aluminium. The steel is basically nearly black, and the aluminium is silver. Neither are what I want. I tried to mix them but the silver doesn't seem to want to mix. You get the pigment forming little streaks.[/quote]
I've had the same experience; the pigments in the two paints are quite different which is where most of the problem comes from. My Polished Steel wasn't that dark though.

In case you've never tried it, you can use a base of one metallic and highlight with another on top of it by glazing, gentle drybrushing or scumbling (sort of like wet drybrushing where you scrub the paint on) - basically doing a simplified version of the highlighting you'd use with a normal colour. Then shade with glazes of black and/or brown in appropriate areas. You can also try Tamiya's transparent colour Smoke, which can do some really nice things.

Einion

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by Major_Goose@Jan 31 2006, 01:01 PM
Guys that use Tamiya smoke , do u thin it with water or not at all ?

Yes, sometimes. I've also used a mix of water and alcohol.

Einion

 

[KeithP]

I personally think you can't beat GS Mr Metal for white metal armor.

I have used the GS Smoke with bare polished metal and the effect is nice but I don't think you can get the depth and shine of Mr Metal. IMO....

I like the use of printers inks for other yellow / orange metals. As mentioned, the pigment is fine. It is versatile and can be added neat to linseed carrier or to another oil earth color.

It does not create good gold or silver cloth.

Keith

 

[megroot]

Originally posted by arthur@Jan 31 2006, 03:54 PM
Costas,

You have to use Tamiya thinner, especially if airbrushing.

I use automotive windshield cleaner that i buy in a 5 liter jar.
It is very cheap ( € 2,50) and it is the same as tamiya thinner.
Difficult word is: isopropylalcohol. Don't be afraid off the blue colour, it doesn't effekt the sprayed colour.

marc.

 

[jjgurk]

I'm really hooked on the printers inks and have been using them for ages. I purchased mine through Phil Kessling at THE PALLETE (sp). I've found that the best results are from a mix of the printers ink itself (only the tiniest amount), either raw umber, sepia, or mars black oil paint , and LIQUIN by W&N. I can achieve most any metallic hue with variations of those mixes.

 

[geaugan]

Einion: Let me understand your technique. You take two fingers Irish neat, add a splash of distiilled water, and downit. Repeat two or three times and then paint metallics.

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by geaugan@Feb 1 2006, 01:23 AM
Einion: Let me understand your technique. You take two fingers Irish neat, add a splash of distiilled water, and downit. Repeat two or three times and then paint metallics.

That's pretty much it, minus the whiskey :lol:

Einion