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Einion

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May 26, 2004
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I don't know how many of you visit CoolMiniOrNot at all but there's a great step-by-step nearing its end that I think most would prefer not to miss.

The subject is a 1/16 space marine with a lot of different techniques, various media and special effects including crackle glazing and salt resist.

It's a month today since it was started and it's at over 61,000 views :eek: to give you an idea of popularity!

Einion

Edit: link might be an idea! http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=31535
 
What I enjoyed was how he gave footnotes and real world comparisons to the effects he wanted, then desribed the process of how he went about achieiving the result.

Example

[quotes in italics]
White areas of the armour and chapter icons need to be tackled.
These white areas would obviously need to reflect the same degree of weathering as the rest of the armour, but to use the salt mask technique again wouldn’t provide enough interest. I want to introduce the idea of a different material yet retain a sense of antiquity.

Always looking for a challenge I envisaged the white areas of the armour to resemble a worn ceramic similar to that found on spark plugs or used as insulators in old power stations.


White is once again airbrushed onto the icon. However, this time the colour is misted on, just enough to tone down the base colour and not obscure it.

The next stage involves the use of Crackle Glaze.
This can be found in most craft stores and comprises of two components. The first preparation is a flexible transparent basecoat. The second component is a varnish that dries hard and brittle.


In order to reveal the cracked surface Burnt Umber oil paint is thickly brushed into the surface. It is then carefully wiped away with a soft clean cloth leaving the oil colour in the cracks.
[end quote]

While many of the figures on here rarely come in contact with such 'exotic' materials in so large a scale, such ideas can often assist in expanding our skill sets or even techniques we would like to tackle.

Thanks for sharing.

One thought - will we be seeing more weathering on shields and helmets from now on? and how well will it translate across scales? :confused:
 
Welcome guys, thought that many of you would prefer not to miss it.

It's at nearly 77,500 views now by the way!!

Janus said:
One thought - will we be seeing more weathering on shields and helmets from now on?
I imagine we'll see a bit. The salt resist thing has been used on aircraft for a while now (it's actually a watercolour technique originally) and maybe on armour, but seeing it directly applied to figures might give people more incentive.

Janus said:
and how well will it translate across scales? :confused:
Craquelure is hard to control as to the size and spacing of the cracks; but the experimentation would be fun.

Salt crystals are similar is size everywhere I guess, so there's a limit to how fine you could go with that method... but then no reason to restrict ourselves just to salt.

No need to, achem, stick to hairspray either :) But airbrushing over it is nearly mandatory, so that'll limit most of the applications to those with an AB or spraygun.

Einion
 
Einion, et al

Thanks for the link Einion.

I'm interesting to see the "Verlindening" of figures as a result of this sbs. I'm sure we'll start seeing a plethora of salt finishes and crackle glazes showing up everywhere. Not that its a bad thing because my first thought was of the various applications I myself could use some of the techniques on. But as is always the case when someone does an outstanding job as is being done here, it will soon be all the rage.

Salt techniques have been around for a bit strting with the railroad guys and picked up by the plane builders. The armor guys soon jumped on board along with alot of car guys. Salt crystals vary in size and adhesive qualities. Margarita salt and kosher salt are large crystals and do well at adhesion to wet surfaces. Iodized salt or table salt is fine and almost like sugar. You can always smash up larger salt crystals to make smaller crystals or mix salt types to vary the finish. Salt can sometimes have a reaction with some acrylic paints too causing hickeys or rings around the area, leaving odd coloration or surface effects on the paint. Since the idea is to use the salt crystals as a oddly shaped geometric paint mask, anything with similar properties will achieve the same effect. Sugar will also work.

The crackle finish can be controlled relatively speaking. A lighter film coat will produce finer cracks than heavier coats. Dry time between the crackle primer and laquer can also make a difference. The shorter the dry time, the finer the cracks. There are several pre made formulas for various crackle effects, from fine porcelin to heavy mud and you can do some great effects by applying a water based glaze over a solvent based primer. Just don't wait for the primer to dry, just get tacky. As the two dry at different rates there is some movement between the two surface and contraction, causing the crackle finish. As always, experiment to get it in the ball park.
 

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