Hi Pat, for sculpting most people use a two-part epoxy; the commonest choices are Kneadatite (also called Duro, greenstuff or GS), MagicSculp, Apoxie Sculpt, A+B, Milliput and .
Some people also sculpt in polymer clays, that require hardening by heating - Sculpey, Super Sculpey, Fimo, Cernit and Kato Polyclay.
Unless you've sculpted before I would recommend starting out by working on conversions rather than diving straight in and sculpting from scratch.
Pat Olson said:
How to "scale" my sculptures.
Know the actual dimensions of an item then divide by the scale, e.g. at 1/32 scale (54mm) a sword that's 37" / 94cm long will become 1.16" / 29.4mm long, at 1/19 (90mm) the same item is 1/95" / 49.5mm.
Scales v. nominal heights.
Pat Olson said:
Tools, tips shortcuts how to hold item while working on it.
Have a look at the
Tools of the trade thread I began a while ago to act as a reference for this kind of thing. Sculpting tools can be as simple as shaped cocktail sticks coated in superglue; with the addition of a couple of needles and a craft knife or two you can accomplish a huge range of work.
For holding smaller parts during sculpting and painting I've used a pin-vice to hold the wire, but as I've gotten older I get hand cramps holding pieces for long periods because of how narrow these are (especially for anything with a bit of weight). So I've long been meaning to make something with a larger-diameter handle and I now mostly use a set of custom clamps similar to one or two from the thread above. Mine are made from approximately 6" of wooden dowel/curtain rail with a plastic cabinet clip mounted on top as the vice. You can see one in these photos of a recent conversion:
The green compound is mostly
Kneadatite, blended with more yellow than blue which I prefer the feel of. The staff surface is a blend of Kneadatite and MagicSculp which is better for creating irregular, organic textures like bark than pure GS.
Einion