Oil Paint starters

planetFigure

Help Support planetFigure:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

[email protected]

New Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
2
Hi, I am new to the group and home to the US from overseas Navy duty. I would like to purchase some Winsor Newton Oils while I am here. I don't have my Sheperd Paine book with me. Can anyone list for the the colors he recommends to start out with? Seems like there were 8 or 10 of them. Any other color recommendations will help too. I bought a bunch of Andrea acrylics to undercoat with but want to give oils a try too. Last, how do Winsor Newton Winton paints compare to their regular, high grade oils for 54mm figure painting?
Thanks
Brian
 
How does Winsor Newton's WINTON line compare? I think it is there slightly more affordable and readily available line of oils?
Thanks for the info.
 
Overall if you're sure you'll stick with oil paint I would suggest you buy the best brand you can afford - even though Cadmium Red and Yellow might be very expensive they could last you decades because of how thinly we paint and oils last practically indefinitely in the tube.

Winton is about what you'd expect from a line that costs less: lower pigmentation which equals poorer coverage. It also will have hues (imitation colours) for certain pigments - cadmium, cobalt and chromium - that are expensive. Cheaper oils may also have a tendency to dry glossier because of their higher oil content so soaking out a little excess oil and speed-drying using heat will often be advisable; if you rely on Dullcoat or another good matt overspray you don't need to worry about this aspect.

That said for some things Winton, D-R's Georgian line or similar lower-cost ranges might be worth considering, their earths could be decent (cheap pigment, so they don't have to skimp on it as much) and for pigments like Phthalo Blue GS, Phthalo Green BS and Dioxazine Purple that are very high in tinting strength it will make them a little easier to handle in mixtures.

At the very least I would suggest you buy Titanium White from a top-notch brand, you'll always appreciate the opacity.

Einion
 
As you are asking another oil painter, I would buy the best that you can afford.

I have replaced some of the blue and red oil paints with the Daniel Smith brand. I found that the their blue and red are the most vibrant and that the consistency of the paint was lighter and more buttery. Some WN paints are very thick out of the tube and I cannot work with that thickness paint without thinning. I will never use WN Prussian blue as it dries very glossy.

For oils, I have tried to pay attention to the pigment rather than the so called name of the paint. For example, I bought the WN Cad Yellow Deep Hue. It does not contain the cad yellow pigment and was not very opague. And, faded when dry. When you know the pigments you won't be unpleasantly surprised when mixing.

The really nice thing about getting the basic pallete is that you can mix almost any color from a few tubes.

Keith
 
Originally posted by KeithP@Dec 29 2005, 05:03 PM
I have replaced some of the blue and red oil paints with the Daniel Smith brand. I found that the their blue and red are the most vibrant...
I find it amusing that we so often value artists' paints for their brilliance (I'm exactly the same) when in fact we need to go out of our way dull them down for much of what we do in the hobby :lol:

Einion
 
Back
Top