OK! how do I rescue this then?

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simon1969

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2003
Messages
327
Location
North Hertfordshire
First off, apologies for the quality of the pic! the only way I can get pics at the mo is by scanning stuff!!
Anyway, Suggestions please for rescuing the shirt & shorts on this guy? It's ended up way too dark (I think)
It's painted in humbrol enamels btw

AND while I'm at it, any suggestions as to how to paint the goggles on his head?

Cheers
Simon
 
Hi Simon.

What do mean?, do you want to strip the paint off ?. Not sure what will do that with enamels without the figure ending up as a blubbery mess.

If not the answer is thin washes, but migh lose some detail.

As for the goggles mate, good old Johnson's kleer always works for me.

Richard
 
Yeah, I was thinking of a wash to bring the shadows up a bit, but with my past record with washes I was hoping to get some miracle cure-all so I could avoid it!! ;)
The more I use enamels, the more I want to go back to acrylics!! At least i know how to paint with them, having spent a good few of my teenage years locked in my room painting Citadel fantasy figures (sad isn't it! :( ) & I know how to strip them too (at least i did until Flash became Flash ultra!)

Anyway, the post is young yet, there may still be a saviour out there!

Cheers
Simon
 
would painting over it not work?
a drop of "Future" on the goggles would work good for a lens effect, I suspect...

the U.K. equivelant is Klear

future.jpg
 
Originally posted by simon1969@Oct 23 2003, 01:15 PM


AND while I'm at it, any suggestions as to how to paint the goggles on his head?
The best way to do goggles, lenses, headlights is with two part epoxy adhesive. Mix it up and let stand for about 2-3 minutes and just as it is setting up scoop some with a toothpick. It should be a very viscous consistency at that point and then slowly let the goop drip onto where you want the lens to be. It will create a perfectly clear, convex lens. I have done this many times and it works perfectly. You may need to do some tests to get the right "feel" for the epoxy. The other thing to be aware of: the goggles need to be perfectly level for the epoxy to form a perfect convex surface. Once the goop forms the convex surface DO NOT touch it further. This is a one-shot solution and experimentation is advised before hand.
 
Originally posted by gordy@Oct 23 2003, 02:04 PM
would painting over it not work?
hmmmm, It's an option, I'm just worried about losing the detail with more coats of paint :(

The Future/Klear option on the goggles is something I'd not thought of funnily enough, I should've done though as I'm starting to believe that there's nothing that can't be remedied/improved/assisted/transformed etc with the stuff!
(I wonder if Johnson's know that most of their sales figures probably have nothing to do with floors!! - I hope not - cos they'd probably change they're packaging & target audience & triple the price!!)

Cheers
Simon
 
Originally posted by btavis+Oct 23 2003, 02:37 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (btavis @ Oct 23 2003, 02:37 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin-simon1969@Oct 23 2003, 01:15 PM


AND while I'm at it, any suggestions as to how to paint the goggles on his head?
The best way to do goggles, lenses, headlights is with two part epoxy adhesive. Mix it up and let stand for about 2-3 minutes and just as it is setting up scoop some with a toothpick. It should be a very viscous consistency at that point and then slowly let the goop drip onto where you want the lens to be. It will create a perfectly clear, convex lens. I have done this many times and it works perfectly. You may need to do some tests to get the right "feel" for the epoxy. The other thing to be aware of: the goggles need to be perfectly level for the epoxy to form a perfect convex surface. Once the goop forms the convex surface DO NOT touch it further. This is a one-shot solution and experimentation is advised before hand.[/b][/quote]
clear two part epoxy adhesive? I'm probably way behind the times then 'cos the only one I remember is Araldite & that used to be a sort of baby sh*t colour!!
Enlighten me? Cos I was thinking of trying Binocular lenses with PVA (for a different figure) but if I can get hold of some clear epoxy that would probably work a whole lot better.

Cheers
Simon
 
Originally posted by btavis@Oct 23 2003, 03:41 PM
5 minute epoxy

Usually sold in hardware stores or just about anywhere. I think Future will not work as well. This dries pretty hard and Future might be spongy. Also I don't think Future will bubble out like a lens would.
Thankyou, I'll have a look this side of the pond at the weekend!

Cheers

Simon
 
Hi Simon,
in case of figures turning out too dark i have used a thin beige/light ocre "filter" applied by airbrush. You have to keep the paint very thin, not more than aprox 5%, and apply a few coates deprending on how light you want it to be. The result should be a lighter and more worn look of the uniform but at the same time you should not loose any detail or shadows applyed (if you keep the filters thin enough).
As for the googles part pretty much everything has been said but anyway, take care when you choose the colour of googles (the part under the glass) because most of them were clear so a darker shade of head gear colour is in order (not black) but than again this might just be a question of personal preference.

cheers
Luka
 
Originally posted by bosko b@Oct 23 2003, 04:23 PM
take care when you choose the colour of googles (the part under the glass) because most of them were clear so a darker shade of head gear colour is in order (not black) but than again this might just be a question of personal preference.
Yep! that was my first thought, The head scarf thingy is going to be whit(ish) so i was thinking of trying to portray a slightly smoked effect by introducing a touch of a brown shade inside the rims.

As for the airbrush suggestion, that would probably work but mine is broken unfortunately & I'd never be able to mask the flesh properly anyway(this is the second attempt at that! - don't want to go through that again! ;) )

Cheers
Simon
(I really must get around to making "Cheers simon" my signature on here! )
 
Hi Simon,
After looking at the pic, I would take the lightest color You used, and on an old business card drop a couple of drops of it, then add a lil white and stir. Then drybrush the figure and actually give the folds more depth. There is a photo in the Back to basics article on drybrushing.....only applied to groundwork.......just a different surface.

Guy
 
Hell, Simon- I think you just jumped your contrast a little too quickly. I'd back down th lighter green a bit, paint a bit deeper into the folds, and then come back with your light highlights. I don't think it's really possible to get that dark base too dark, particularly for us glazers. It's the tone coming out of the dark that begins the transition-- I think you just came out a little hot.
john
 
If you're still looking to strip the figure, the best agent is spray on oven cleaner. On my side of the pond Easy-Off is my favorite brand name. Unless the figure is a soft plastic, the oven cleaner won't harm it. Resin and metal figures are unaffected it. This stuff is basically super concentrated detergent more correctly sodium hydroxide. Just spray it on and leave the figre for a couple hours and clean it off with cool running water and a OLD toothbrush unless you don't like some one you live with, then you can use theirs. Also, wear gloves or this stuff will find the most minute cut on hour hands and burn the living daylights out of it.

The other product I've had decent luck with is Castrol Super Clean which is a coincentrated automotive degreaser.

As for the goggles, use Tamiya's Smoke clear paint. It's a gloss translucent but
has a smoky finish.
 
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