Physical Properties of oil paints

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yellowcat

A Fixture
Joined
May 8, 2009
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This may be useful to members painting with oils.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF OIL PAINTS


WHITE COLORS

Flake White: Because of its excellent all-around qualities, it is the most important of all white paints. Its drying capacity is better than that of any other white. The hiding power of flake white is also good, but not as effective as that of Titanium White. Flake white (white lead) blackens in the presence of sulphurated air, when kept away from daylight a white lead will turns yellow; this condition will be aggravated in the presence of moisture. Bleaching of a yellowed paint can be carried out by exposing it to strong daylight for a period of several weeks or shorter exposures to indirect sunlight.

Zinc White: is a zinc oxide. It requires twice the amount of oil that Flake White needs to make it brushable, its covering and drying capacity are inferior to latter color, and the film is less elastic when dry. Brittleness increasing with age.

Titanium White: is a mixture of pure Titanium Oxide, Barium Sulfate, and Zinc White. The drying quality of Titanium Oxide is poor and its dried film is soft, but the addition of Zinc White improves these qualities. The mixture absorbs twice as much as Flake White, and if the paint appears to dry quickly, it is reasonable to assume that it contains dryers. Regardless of its vehicle, this white is absolutely permanent.

Of the above white, Zinc White is a cold (bluish) white often described as snow white, Flake White is a warm milky white; and Titanium White is neutral in color, neither as cold as Zinc White nor as warm as Flake White, but has the greatest opacity of all whites. Grumbacher’s Superba White is the Titanium White of their Finest line of oil colors. It is extremely opaque and almost completely non-yellowing.


BLACK COLORS

Ivory Black: is a pigment made by charring animal bones closed retorts. It has good covering power, tinting strength is also adequate. However, in oil painting it is one of the poorest dryers of all colors. In spite of all its shortcomings, Ivory Black cannot be replaced by any other black color that is made commercially, such as Carbon Black, Lamp Black, and the most excellent Mars Black.

Mars Black: This color does not posses the depth and relative transparency of the indispensable Ivory Black, but it is by far superior to it in point of drying capacity, tinting strength, hiding power, and coarseness of its body.

Lamp Black: A nearly pure carbon obtained from the condensed smoke of burning tar and pitch. It cannot be considered as a substitute of Ivory Black or Mars Black.

Carbon Black: is obtained by burning natural gas. It cannot substitute for Ivory Black or Mars Black and its drying capacity is very poor.


BROWN COLORS

Burnt Sienna: This earth color is prepared by roasting raw sienna. Its drying capacity and tinting strength is considerably enhanced. Burnt Sienna is quite opaque and dull, but when thinned its color attains a fiery tone which makes it most useful for glazing.

Burnt Umber: is an earth color. Because of their high content of maganese dioxide (up to 16%) the umbers are the fastest drying colors on our palette. Its opacity and tinting strength are good. As with all earth color, its permanence can be considered absolute.

Raw Sienna: is a pigment that closely resembles yellow ochre. However its tint is more brownish and its key is lower than that of Yellow Ochre. It is more transparent and, because of its small amount of maganese dioxide content, its drying capacity is better. Raw Sienna is in no way a substitute of Yellow Ochre.

Raw Umber: is an earth color of great permanence. It is a fairly opaque dull, dark brown which has a rather cool tonality. Because it posses a large content of maganese dioxide (8 to 16%) it possess an enormous drying capacity. the slightest admixture of this color will considerably accelerate the drying of other slow-drying colors.


BLUE COLORS

Prussian Blue: is one of the most stable and universally useful synthetic colors. Although Prussian Blue is quite transparent, its tinting strength exceeds that of every color. It is especially useful in obtaining green tints. Its drying capacity is excellent, when mixed with other colors, it materially accelerates their drying time.

Maganese Blue: It is Weak in tinting strength and hiding power. The blue hue can be produced by a mixture of Cobalt Blue, Viridian Green, and White. The only good use of Maganese Blue is by adding it to other light colors in order to speed up their drying.

Ultramarine Blue: is transparent, and the only one possessing a violet hue. Its drying capacity in oil paint is moderate.

Cerulean Blue: is the only opaque blue in our palette. It is a good dryer and, when genuine, its tinting strength is good and its color is useful in painting atmospheric effects.

Cobalt Blue: is a very stable color of moderate opacity and tinting strength, good drying quality, and adaptability to all techniques. Its tone, somewhat sweet, limits its use chiefly to painting sky areas.


RED COLORS

Alizarian Crimson: a brilliant, dark red is a synthetic dyestuff. It belongs with the most transparent colors on the palette and has good tinting strength. In oil paints it is the slowest dryer and its permanence is greater than that of Madder Lake.

Cadmium Red: All cadmium colors are slow dryers. They posses great permanence, good hiding power and tinting strength.

Vermilion: Until the discovery of cadmium red, it was the most widely used brilliant, light red color. Its body and its hiding power are stronger than those of cadmium red. It is a very slow dryer.

Venetian Red: The hue of this color is a bright brick red. Its drying capacity is however only moderate, it is extremely permanent.

Indian Red: is an unspecified designation for a purplish Iron Oxide Red.


YELLOW COLORS

Cadmium Yellow: It posses brilliant hues and is a poor dryer.

Naples Yellow: is a mixture of white and ochre, with or without an addition of red. The hiding power, tinting strength, and drying properties of Naples Yellow are good.

Yellow Ochre: and its varieties Golden Brown Ochre, is a moderately fast drying color. Golden Yellow ochre is more transparent warmer in hue, and weaker in tinting strength than Yellow Ochre. It is generally use for glazing. The hue of Brown Ochre resembles that of Raw Sienna, but the ochre is more opaque and warmer. All ochre possess great permanence.

Chrome Yellow: is an impermanent, obsolete pigment that has been superseded by Cadmium Yellow.


GREEN COLORS

Viridian Green: is a transparent and the most useful green on your palette. It is a moderately strong glazing color and it possess good drying capacity and permanence.

Permanent Green: is a mixture of Prussian Blue and a yellow such as Cadmium Yellow. The opacity and tinting strength of permanent are considerable.

Chrome Green: is an obsolete color, made by mixing Prussian Blue and Chrome Yellow.
 
Felix, is this information quoted from a written source or sources? I ask because there are some very curious omissions and mention of a few obsolete pigments.

And don't take this the wrong way but there's also lots of woolly terminology that is too subjective to really be useful, "cool tonality" and "brilliant hues" don't really mean anything.

Einion
 
Hi Einion,
This is from my fine art school project that I did long time ago. It was taken from some sources with my experiences added to it. Some of the terminologies are only meaningful to fine art students. But I think it is still useful and apply to figure painting.
 
yellowcat said:
Some of the terminologies are only meaningful to fine art students.
I'm a student of fine arts and I can't be sure what you meant ;)

In the listing for Cobalt Blue for example you say "Its tone, somewhat sweet..." I'm pretty sure from the context that you're using tone to mean colour here but it's commonly used as a word for value. And in colourspeak sweet means nothing to another person.

It's better to use specific terms if the goal is to communicate clearly what is meant: e.g. use hue when that's what is meant, instead of using the word colour generically; this leaves colour to mean colour only (a given hue at a specific value and chroma) and so forth.

yellowcat said:
This is from my fine art school project that I did long time ago. It was taken from some sources with my experiences added to it.
I thought there might be some older info used as a basis, given some of the pigments listed. So, some updates & comments:

Whites

yellowcat said:
Flake White: Because of its excellent all-around qualities, it is the most important of all white paints.
Looking at the history of painting this is absolutely true, but it's certainly not any longer.

Blacks

Ivory Black today is always Bone Black (since of course there is no longer a large supply of legal ivory to make into pigment).

yellowcat said:
Lamp Black: ...cannot be considered as a substitute of Ivory Black or Mars Black.
Why not? It's extremely black in masstone, it covers well and often has a very blue tint which some people might find useful.

Same with regard to Carbon Black; perfectly useable IMO.

Browns

First and foremost many sources of natural earth pigments were exhausted in the 20th century and because of this a great deal of commercial 'earths' are now not made from the real thing, they are made from synthetic iron oxides (even if the listed pigment doesn't reflect this).

No mention of any Mars pigments?

yellowcat said:
Burnt Sienna is quite opaque and dull...
Quite opaque? Burnt Sienna is traditionally a semitransparent paint, and although this varies a bit from source to source an opaque version is atypical and could even be considered as flawed.

Interestingly Raw Umber is actually a very dark yellow/orange-yellow typically (!) often around the same hue as Yellow Ochre, despite not looking like it is.

Blues

No mention of Phthalo Blue, the most important modern blue pigment?

yellowcat said:
Although Prussian Blue is quite transparent, its tinting strength exceeds that of every color.
Uh, PB15, PG7, PV23?!

Manganese Blue is obsolete, only available from one or two specialists any more (the pigment has not been manufactured for a few years I think, so any remaining stocks are dwindling). The hue can be mixed from any blue and any green, the colour is a different story.

French Ultramarine is semitransparent more than transparent. It doesn't have a violet hue; it's a violet-blue, not quite the same thing. It's also not the only blue in this rough position, Indanthrone Blue can have the same masstone hue and although it is much more expensive Cobalt Blue Deep can be close too.

One of the most important characteristics of PB29 for the hobby is that it has a natural tendency to dry matt (very useful considering how many other blues tend towards a gloss finish).

yellowcat said:
Cerulean Blue: is the only opaque blue in our palette.
Different versions of Cerulean Blues can be around the same opacity as Cobalt Blue.

A mixed equivalent starting with Titanium White, in addition to being cheaper, can often exceed the opacity of either. Also much cheaper :)

Reds

I think there should be mention of its Alizarin Crimson's poor lightfastness, given permanence was mentioned with other paints - PR83 is the most fugitive pigment commonly available to artists. There are now a number of viable alternatives - Pyrrole Rubine, Anthraquinone Red are similar for someone looking for a substitute, and Quin Rose and Quin Magenta are nearby, both of which are better mixers than a dark crimson anyway.

Worth mentioning the huge span of colour for cad reds - from a brilliant scarlet through mid-red to deeper versions, which are usually a dark red or dull crimson.

Vermilion is an obsolete pigment, only available from specialist firms; in addition to concerns over it being a mercury compound I doubt many people are going to fork over $$$ when cad reds are already as expensive as they are :)

Venetian Reds vary, but are not truly red at all despite the name. They are typically scarlet or orange-red in hue.

Yellows

Worth mentioning that Cadmium Yellows are the most opaque yellows available.

yellowcat said:
Naples Yellow: is a mixture of white and ochre, with or without an addition of red. The hiding power, tinting strength, and drying properties of Naples Yellow are good.
First off I think it's important to specify that this is Naples Yellow Hue we would generally be talking about today. The real thing is again available, but only from a few makers (it's a lead/antimony compound).

Some hues are not a mixture of white and ochre - some are straight PBr24, some are made with that plus white, some are a mixture of white, ochre and a little red earth. And some are mixtures of four or more pigments.

As should be expected the colour varies widely, just like with the real thing.

Greens

yellowcat said:
Viridian Green: is a transparent and the most useful green on your palette.
Most useful green - well that's a matter of opinion! I happen to think that's probably Chromium Oxide Green, which you didn't mention - most opaque green pigment available.

Permanent Green is a commercial paint name and as such it doesn't say anything at all about what it's made from - the ingredients can, and do, vary from maker to maker. Most are not made from Prussian Blue or Cadmium Yellow; W&N offer three versions, none of which include either ingredient you mentioned, ditto with Talens.

And although expensive and I wouldn't recommend them there's also Cobalt Green and Cobalt Chromite Green.

And of course there are the phthalo greens.

Einion
 
From all this wise words i have only one question.
Is it possible the write down a list with the following points.
Transparency, Semi transparent, Opaque.
From white to black and all the colors in between.
I mean from light to dark in the spectrum.
For instance: Black from the tube is not always black but it's possible it's some blue in it. I think that there are many colors who are looking different then they really are.
( i hope i made myself clear).

Oh, i would be a happy man with that.

Marc
 
Hi Einion,
Thank you for your comments, update and your personal insight and opinion. I regret I did not post all the details from my original article. I think what I have posted is the general basic and enough information to be used in figure painting. Oil paint manufactures have their own ingredient and pigment put into their paints. Most modern colours and names are differing from brand to brand. It is hard to keep track each and every colour under different manufacture. One can also make your own oil paints from dry pigments. I don't want to go into details on this. With Einion's art expertise, Einion should post a complete full detail for all the different colours that are available in today's market from all the different manufactures.
Once again thanks Einion for his personal insight on this subject matter!
 
megroot said:
Is it possible the write down a list with the following points.
Transparency, Semi transparent, Opaque.
From white to black and all the colors in between.
Not really, no - in part because of how much paints can vary but also because there are so many.

But the good news is that opacity/transparency information for most of the mass-market brands is now given on their websites and/or in the product literature (sometimes on the tube label too) although the three or four categories that are used by most makers are a little too broad really. Numbered opacity ratings are just coming into use with some of the acrylic makers - Golden were first I think - so I imagine we can expect to see something similar for oil paints in the coming years.

megroot said:
For instance: Black from the tube is not always black but it's possible it's some blue in it.
Black paints are generally all black enough to be considered black. I think what you're referring to is the undercolour (what you see when you brush a paint out thinly) or the tint (colour + white) which is nearly always on the blue side.

Lamp Black can have the blue-est tint while Bone Black (sold as Ivory Black) can often have the least-blue undercolour and tint of the common black pigments, as you can see here and here with the Gamblin and W&N versions, but unfortunately this varies.


yellowcat said:
With Einion's art expertise, Einion should post a complete full detail for all the different colours that are available in today's market from all the different manufactures.
Given the variability of paints the only real way to do that would be to try them all (or at least a large representative sample, as was done for watercolours on the Handprint site) which I'm sure you're not suggesting :) There are well over 700 oil paints just from the major manufacturers, even just covering the basics from published data would take a prohibitively long time - but since the info is publicly available buyers can look stuff up for themselves with relative ease as needed.

Einion
 
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