Stripping a figure problem

[Bluebottle]

I bought a white metal figure off e bay which was in very good condition apart from being undercoated (badly) in some sort of off white paint.

So far, its totally resisted all attempts to remove it. Ive tried two types of thinners , industrial and normal cellulose , white spirit, alcohol, neat Dettol ….nope….not even touching it . Goodness knows whats been used as undercoat, the only way ive got any off is by file and suede brush but Im risking the figures detail .
Ive left the solvents on over night to do their work but again….nothing.

Maybe the “super” undercoat was some left over tin from the space shuttle ?

Any suggestions ?

 

[VerSacrum]

If Acetone won't take it off nothing will

 

[Bluebottle]

As used in nail varnish removal ?

 

[Landrotten Highlander]

You should test this on a bit of white metal that you can miss if things goes awry, and ALWAYS use PPE (goggles and acid resistant gloves)

in my first job we used an automotive paint remover which seemed to work on almost anything. You brush it on, leave for some time (until the paint stops shrivelling) then remove the partially desolved paint with a spatula. If not all paint dissolved you just rinse and repeat. After make sure you rinse the piece thoroughly.

I cannot remember the name, but we used to find this stuff in your standard automotive supply shop. Not sure if it is still available given the current stringent regulations, but worth while a search?

 

[zemjw]

I have had success with Biostrip 20, including 30+ year old gloss varnished enamels, athough it can take a few days of soaking.

 

[Briggsy]

I would suggest Nitromors paint stripper which can be bought from B&Q. Alternatively Mr Muscle oven cleaner left on overnight. Short of that Sellafield has a pretty toxic water based solution!

Cheers Simon

 

[theBaron]

I use a product called SuperClean, an automotive de-greaser. It used to be made by Castrol but I think it was spun off. I don't know if it's available in the UK, however.
Have you tried lacquer thinner?
One thing I recommend that you should be able to do, and which some others have also suggested, is to soak the piece, instead of just brushing it on. I do this with the SuperClean. I use glass jars of varying sizes, to fit pieces of various sizes. I fill the jar with the liquid, then soak the piece. Now, with SuperClean, paint will dissolve into the solution in minutes. The longer the soak, the more the paint dissolved. But I will remove the piece and use an old toothbrush to gently scrub away the softened paint that hasn't dissolved away. The longer the soak, the more paint dissolves away and the easier to remove the rest.
I would try a lacquer thinner bath and soak the piece in it, taking care to work in a well-ventilated area, of course.
Hope that helps!
Prost!
Brad

 

[kevininpdx]

For metal figs I have to second the acetone recommendation. The pure stuff. Common item at hardware stores here in the USA. It will strip the parts clean. I hardly even need to scrub the parts after. Also safe on the material. I accidentally stashed a small container with parts soaking for months. The metal had a gray patina but otherwise was perfect.

 

[gentleman in khaki]

Dear Bluebottle,
I have had a similar experience to you with super strong undercoated figures. My most recent is the Chotia Sahib Skinners horse officer. Honestly, it really looked as if he had been painted with household paints!.
I agree with both Simon and The Baron. A long soak ( a week +) and either Mr Muscle oven cleaner in a small self seal bag or standard Nitromors, again with a long soak. This worked well on the figure. Every second day I removed the parts and, whilst wearing safety specs and gloves, used an old tooth brush to remove the paint. A blunted darning needle with a wine cork handle is also good for ears, nostrils and so on. The essence really is patience. Removing the paint in stages is highly recommended as it allows the chemicals to do their work on a newly exposed surface.
The Silver Lining is, at least its a metal figure, a friend of mine tried the above on 28mm scale plastic Games Workshop figures. He (was) very headstrong and ignored my advice.....they just melted away to grey blobs!
I wish you every success!
Cheers,
Paul

 

[Mnr Maxime Chevallier Esq]

I bought a white metal figure off e bay which was in very good condition apart from being undercoated (badly) in some sort of off white paint.

So far, its totally resisted all attempts to remove it. Ive tried two types of thinners , industrial and normal cellulose , white spirit, alcohol, neat Dettol ….nope….not even touching it . Goodness knows whats been used as undercoat, the only way ive got any off is by file and suede brush but Im risking the figures detail .
Ive left the solvents on over night to do their work but again….nothing.

Maybe the “super” undercoat was some left over tin from the space shuttle ?

Any suggestions ?

Hi there. I bought some figures from a man in London that were a bit like you describe. E Bay people sometimes cover over pre painted old collection figures in domestic undercoat or car body or ship body marine primer-type paint. (They do it sometimes because they get the figures cheap and sometimes want to hide their provenance.).
Try NIRO MORSE Paint Stripper meant for removing thick old skirting and door paint from old houses. (or whatever its called these days) English shops used to sell the stuff, but for gods sake watch your face and fingers and skin !!! its NASTY stuff

 

[Mnr Maxime Chevallier Esq]

Apply the Liquid, put in a safe place far away fromchildren or animals, and leave it at least overnight on the metal figure. Gradually the thickness of the old paints will soften and become removable, peeling off in various "skins" until you can use a soft wire brush or polishing rota tool to remove the resideus from the figure. Good luck.

 

[Mnr Maxime Chevallier Esq]

Alternatively, but more risky, try using a fine sand blaster "air brush" tool, like they still sometimes sell in LIDL, the German Supermarket. (PARKSIDE Product). They come with a bag or bottle of the abrasive sand powder and work usually electrically. You need to be safe as houses with using this one, so put the "work" in a bench vise and fire the brush sands AWAY FROM your body (and wear a face eye protector or visor too!!). Be careful to only "shoot" a little abrasive at one trigger; it's strong, and otherwise you'll lose your fine surface figure details.
Loosen the vise to change the "face" or side of the "work" and refasten it securely in your vise. Turn the figure a few times this same way, around, and re-secure it again firmly in the vice (place a soft cloth around the figure if your vice has hard iron "teeth" to protect the work). and "shoot the sands" to do the other side of your figure, etc., in the vise, and gradually this will remove the old paints.
Remove the residues with Nitro Mors paint stripper to finish where the figure was attached in the vise (the bit you will miss because it's hidden in the teeth of your work vise).
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE YOU TO TRY HOLD THE FIGURE OR 3WORK3 WITH A HUMAN HAND OR A FINGER !!!!! Extremely dangerous

 

[Mnr Maxime Chevallier Esq]

Dear Bluebottle,
I have had a similar experience to you with super strong undercoated figures. My most recent is the Chotia Sahib Skinners horse officer. Honestly, it really looked as if he had been painted with household paints!.
I agree with both Simon and The Baron. A long soak ( a week +) and either Mr Muscle oven cleaner in a small self seal bag or standard Nitromors, again with a long soak. This worked well on the figure. Every second day I removed the parts and, whilst wearing safety specs and gloves, used an old tooth brush to remove the paint. A blunted darning needle with a wine cork handle is also good for ears, nostrils and so on. The essence really is patience. Removing the paint in stages is highly recommended as it allows the chemicals to do their work on a newly exposed surface.
The Silver Lining is, at least its a metal figure, a friend of mine tried the above on 28mm scale plastic Games Workshop figures. He (was) very headstrong and ignored my advice.....they just melted away to grey blobs!
I wish you every success!
Cheers,
Paul

He probably was painted in old domestic house paints. These days we see a lot of figures, old era ones, coated in thick cream ivory or white paints. This because a dealer or seller can only get old "collection" deceased figures from the House. Getting the older figures, can now be difficult, so sellers resort more and more to the cheapness of domestic or car body paint; its a growing second hand sale "problem.".

 

[Mnr Maxime Chevallier Esq]

The above DOES NOT work of course with resin figures

 

[Harrybh]

I've had good luck with 99% isopropol alcohol and a good soak.

 

[Bluebottle]

Thanks to all for most welcome help. I decided, as its sunday, to see what i had on hand as advised …no acetone but some Mr Muscle oven cleaner ( should that now be “ Non binary Muscle cleaner “ ? ) . I tested a sample on the base and amazed that it worked ! Not entirely but Im sure with a couple more goes the whole figure will be cleaned down to the metal. Its a Stadden figure so i want the base left shiney metal . Ive enclosed the full strip in a sealed plastic bag and will leave it a few hours. But im sure this will work.
I also think the paint stripper would work but its very smelly and messy and costs more than the figure ! Also i cant see me using it again.
So thanks to all for your help.

 

[PLG]

With regard to the brushing part of the process, I now use an OLD head for my electric toothbrush. Remember an old head unless you want a Dettol taste when you brush your teeth! Beford anyone asks - no I have never made that mistake!

An old, worn head will have softer bristles so should be less damaging on the figure.

petet

 

[samson]

I just stripped an old 75 mm white metal piece this morning that I have no idea what type of paint was on it . Put the acetone in a small glass container for 3 hours took it out and scrubbed gently with an old tooth brush . Paint fell right off . Rinsed it with warm water and that’s it good as new . It was finger nail Polish remover with a high acetone count . Hope this helps . Good luck