Plaster Sliding Off Plinths?

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Ong

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2005
Messages
384
I recall reading posts saying that dried plaster groundwork slid off the top glosscoat surface of hardwood plinths because the glosscoat was too slippery. Now is this fact or a myth?

Sure, I could drill a hole in the middle of the base's top for the plaster to anchor itself into with a plaster peg, but I'd prefer not to. So suggest sanding the top gloss off with sandpaper to create some rough texture, but again, I'm not sure if that's even necessary or effective.

Comments welcome. Thanks.
 
I think the preparation of the base surface is very necessary
At the very least you should do as Carl suggests and sand and score the top of the base and add pva glue......or you can go a little further, sand the top and drill holes into the top. Fill half of the holes with toothpicks or small dowel so you end up with some holes for the mix to anchor into and some pegs to secure the mix as well...and again add pva glue as well.
I prepare all bases this way....


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Two ways:

1. As above...'score' the surface of the base with a knife and add a little glue into your plaster. The scored area will give the plaster something to bit into and the glue will give the plaster a bit more strength

1. With a bigger surface, you could drill a series of random holes into the base and glue small lengths of a paper clip. In essence, you're using rebar.

Paul
 
Yeap , like every one has said score the top of the base with a craft knife on a diamond pattern stopping just short of where you intend the ground work to finish if you are not going all the way to the edges . Then give the base a coat of PVA glue just short of where you want the ground work to finish and the add a little PVA to your plaster mix . If you do this properly you'll need a kangoo hammer to remove it . My favourite glue is Unibond, it's been around for years , it's been copied but never bettered .
chippy
 
I use milliput on the top of the bases for the figures I have done since getting back into the hobby. It dries rock hard and bonds to the wood well without any extra anchoring to the wood. But does anybody know if I am in for a nasty surprise a few years down the line with the milliput cracking off?
Cheers
Mat
 
I use Apoxie clay or Magic Sculpt for groundwork... I generally scratch the hell out of the top of the wood then drill random 1/8" holes around the top on different angles. I apply a thin layer of MS, pushing it into the holes... before it sets I start adding more layers to build up the shapes needed.
I Dare anyone to knock that mess off the block!

Colin
 
I say poo poo to your plasters, milliputs, apoxie clays and magic sculpts.

Because everything hitherto devised by the greatest minds of science and all the combined endeavours of mankind itself for the purposes of creating groundwork for figures cannot serve that purpose more successfully than!..:nailbiting::nailbiting:

Yes people you guessed it!!!!......CREAM OF TARTAR!!!!........:wideyed:


cream of tartar.jpg


Plus a little PVA glue ofcourse.

Few have tried it, but those who have have equated the experience to a divine awakening, a rebirth of sorts.
Just read some of the testimonials......

Dwayne Pipes,
Otterville Illinois.

"I was a plaster guy before I tried CREAM OF TARTAR but not any more, no sir I'm exclusively a C.O.T man now"

Bob Frapples,
Kirton in Linsay, Lincolnshire.

"I was a bit sceptical at first and the wife was a little concerned, but now I wouldn't use anything but CREAM OF TARTAR for all my groundwork needs"

Chris P. Bacon,
Upper Musquodoboit, Nova Scotia.

"Since discovering CREAM OF TARTAR my groundwork has been better than I could have ever imagined, no more poxy clays and milliput for me."


Tony Dawe,
Perth Western Australia

"What's this ****!!"
 
I use Liquidtex Medium Gel as a putty plaster. It's similar to body cream and I've had no problems with it, but it doesn't build up very well. I do use garden foam for building up bases though and then thinly coat the sides with Liquidtex Medium Gel.
 
I use Das Pronto, form it, work it, let it dry then glue it with Patex ( first scratching the "plinth" surface ) .
 
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