Primer For Acrylics?

[combatartist]

Need some ideas on what primer is best for metal & resin figs. I've used Tamyia, but it seems the acrylic paint "beads up".


To honor those that serve through art.
www.tonystencel.com

 

[jcichon]

Armory Primer is very good. I use a lot of it myself. I also use regular ole auto primer. It's cheap and works well. Try putting your primer can in warm, not HOT water for about 10 minutes or so and you will get a super fine spray with it. I mainly use Vallejo airbrush surface primer which I love but you may not have an airbrush!

 

[Helm]

I use regular car primer

 

[m@rp]

I use car primer base paint especially on metal figure and metal parts on plastic figure and tamyia base paint on other figures (resin or plastic) but if you want, after this, you can also spray a coat of humbrol with an airbrush and you will see after spraying, your acrylics will fill the previous coat like a "seawave on the sand".
Hope this will help you
Pascal

 

[Sergey Popovichenko]

I use regular car primer

+100. I drain primer out of the bulb and blow by airbrush.

 

[MarquisMini]

For metal figures i use floquil multisurface primer or Gunze Mr metal primer brush on which goes really good with acrylics.
Regards

 

[MarquisMini]

Forgot to say that the most important part is to prep the fig first.
I do wash the figure with detergent and use a scotchbrite to polish it while i clean it, then i grab a little towel and wet it with rubbing alcohol and do a second clean up.

 

[JonP]

I use Tamiya Superfine grey but you need to give it a very good shake or you will get a glossy finish which can lead to acrylics beading on it.

 

[MarquisMini]

It is always a good idea to let the rattle can to "soak" in a wrm water for 5 minutes ,shake it up a little and use it.
As a good rule always allow 2 days for the primer to completely cure.

 

[megroot]

I used Games Workshop primer. But the last two years I use automotive primer. I can buy three spraycans for the price of one GW. Result is just the same.

marc

 

[Einion]

Auto primer, or something similar like Painter's Touch.

Einion

 

[MarquisMini]

Auto primer, or something similar like Painter's Touch.

Einion

I saw many modellers using Auto primer , which would be a good brand in the US?

 

[Einion]

Duplicolor is recommended a fair bit (often the Sandable Primer specifically, no idea if this is the only one they make that's suitable).

For non-auto primers Painter's Touch has a good rep, also read a few mentions of Plasti-Kote. Seen one or two for Krylon primers but also some warnings about bad results, so maybe put that at the bottom of the list of things to try.

Einion

P.S. To get the best and most consistent results from this type of thing I'd recommend the tips I give here. One or two other primers mentioned in the same thread.

 

[MarquisMini]

Duplicolor is recommended a fair bit (often the Sandable Primer specifically, no idea if this is the only one they make that's suitable).

For non-auto primers Painter's Touch has a good rep, also read a few mentions of Plasti-Kote. Seen one or two for Krylon primers but also some warnings about bad results, so maybe put that at the bottom of the list of things to try.

Einion

P.S. To get the best and most consistent results from this type of thing I'd recommend the tips I give here. One or two other primers mentioned in the same thread.

Thanks for the useful info Einion

 

[theBaron]

I use Walmart's store brand of automotive primer, which the last time around was "Valspar". I found it covers just as well as Rust-o-leum's primer (Painter's Touch is also by Rust-o-leum) or Krylon's, but a can goes farther. And definitely more cost-effective than tiny cans from Tamiya and the other modeling paint manufacturers. I use both a medium gray (close to the USAAF's medium gray in WWII) and a light gray (almost white), depending on the subject's final colors. There is also a rust-colored primer, which I've tried, but the medium gray works better for me.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Einion]

...definitely more cost-effective than tiny cans from Tamiya and the other modeling paint manufacturers.

Yeah, this is one of the main advantages to this kind of thing. The quality is at least as good, and you usually get a much bigger can (sometimes more than double) for less money which makes it a bit of a no-brainer.

I'm also a fan of priming in grey - best middle-of-the-road colour. The 'red oxide' type, never had the chance to paint over that but I imagine it could work well for some subjects. Would make a good base for some WWII armour, that's for sure!

Einion

 

[combatartist]

I use Tamiya Superfine grey but you need to give it a very good shake or you will get a glossy finish which can lead to acrylics beading on it.

I'll bet this is exactly what happened Jon. The surface did appear somewhat glossy, and I don't remember if I prepped it before I spray painted it. Thanks for the information. Thanks to all who took the time to post - really apreciated.

 

[combatartist]

All good information! My airbrush compressor hasn't been used in over 10 years, and I'm too damn lazy to fire it back up. Cleaning, thinning, and adjusting...unless I invest in a "new" airbrush set up?? Anyone have an idea how to approach the wife about making the investment? Hide the knives first!

 

[Richie]

Hi Tony,
You could do what the rest of us do.... a plain sob story, failing that.... don't tell her, lie, beat her to the postman, find a good hiding place, tell her that's the one I've always had, hide the sharp objects and if needs be, take one in the ribs. Happy airbrushing.
cheers
Richie

 

[theBaron]

I do want to try using Mr. Surfacer as a primer, too. I've read about it but haven't tried it yet. If I do, I'll post back with the results.

Prost!
Brad