Primers
- Thread starter Robin
- Start date
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Johan
A Fixture
Tamiya primer - light grey 440 ("gull grey") but they do have white too. Never got any "runners" or nasty surprises with this one, it seems to work well on plastic, metal and resin.
Anders Heintz
A Fixture
I am currently using Citadels White Primer, gives a good solid white foundation to paint on.
megroot
A Fixture
i used a automotive primer. Not as good as citadel i 've heard. But Robin what primer's did you used on Euro on the nicely sculpted figure's. And what was the reason to primed them grey and whit.
Marc
Marc
Roc
A Fixture
I use Floquil gray primer.
Cheers
Roc
Cheers
Roc
Hi Marc
The figures are primed like that because we think it shows the detail on the figure better, also we can hand them out for people to handle so you can examine what you gonna get when you buy it.
Rob
Interesting concept mate, have you ever tried washing your white undercoat with a black wash to bring highlights and shadows into play.
Robin
The figures are primed like that because we think it shows the detail on the figure better, also we can hand them out for people to handle so you can examine what you gonna get when you buy it.
Rob
Interesting concept mate, have you ever tried washing your white undercoat with a black wash to bring highlights and shadows into play.
Robin
Robin, I haven't done that. I guess with that you get dark in the recesses, but with the "zenithal" oversprays, it catches the true highlights/shadows keeping with Shep Paines 60 degree halo of light principle, and the overhead lighting from Latorre/Chacon.
Joe Hudson
A Fixture
I airbrush Tamiya light grey paint. I do not use any real primers much at all but will sometimes brush on Humbrol #1 primer.
Joe
Joe
Einion
A Fixture
Hi Robin! I use grey acrylic automotive primer - cheap and tough as nails. You'll probably find Halford's easy to find. Doesn't make much difference if you use acrylic- or cellulose-based except in the smell department.
Most of the proprietary sprays (Games Workshop for example) are much the same kind of thing, possibly the exact same kind, just relabelled and sold at inflated prices - last time I checked over double.
Best results are obtained by warming the can first in fairly warm water and don't skimp on the shaking. If the weather is cold and damp spray in your garage for best results. You can ignore the common spraying advice of starting and finishing the spray off the figure and shoot short bursts directly at the model if necessary, the primer goes into recesses better this way as well as being less wasteful. Don't worry about it obscuring detail, even on a Hornet figure.
Einion
Most of the proprietary sprays (Games Workshop for example) are much the same kind of thing, possibly the exact same kind, just relabelled and sold at inflated prices - last time I checked over double.
Best results are obtained by warming the can first in fairly warm water and don't skimp on the shaking. If the weather is cold and damp spray in your garage for best results. You can ignore the common spraying advice of starting and finishing the spray off the figure and shoot short bursts directly at the model if necessary, the primer goes into recesses better this way as well as being less wasteful. Don't worry about it obscuring detail, even on a Hornet figure.
Einion
Guy
A Fixture
Floquil R-9 light gray primer has been my primer for many years. I use both spray and bottle
John Long
A Fixture
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2003
- Messages
- 1,495
I 've noticed that primer will many times "shrink" into recesses as it dries. Many times I thought I had sprayed too heavily only to find detail that was slightly obscured wet will be crisp after the primer has dried.
I use Rustoleum by the way. It works as well as any. I have noticed a tendency to get a grainy finish if it isn't shaken well though.
Einion
A Fixture
Hi John, yep most primers will shrink a bit as they dry as you say.
Thorough shaking is a must and warming is important (unless it's a scorching hot day of course!) as it lowers the viscosity.
Einion.
Thorough shaking is a must and warming is important (unless it's a scorching hot day of course!) as it lowers the viscosity.
Einion.
Lou Masses
A Fixture
i like the Tamiya stuff myself. WOrks really well, is tough and dries quickly.
JP PRAJOUX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2003
- Messages
- 168
I myself use tamiya grey primer and I add a few diluted coats of "old style" light grey humbrol for the parts that will be painted with oils (mostly the flesh parts). This in order to help having a matt aspect and because I feel that oils are slipping on the tamiya primer
My question is this one : what kind of paint do you use with all these primers, and if you use oils are you satisfied of these primers ?
I have to ask this because my stock of humbrol is decreasing very much.
Your answers will be very useful because my friend Daniel Ipperti will have the same problem very soon !
Thank you in advance.
Jean-Philippe
My question is this one : what kind of paint do you use with all these primers, and if you use oils are you satisfied of these primers ?
I have to ask this because my stock of humbrol is decreasing very much.
Your answers will be very useful because my friend Daniel Ipperti will have the same problem very soon !
Thank you in advance.
Jean-Philippe
I only brush on primer. Mostly, I use Foquil Reefer white. I also use Rustoleum Primer White brushed on. It is sold by Home Depot as Painters' Touch Flat White Primer. I have much more control brushing on primers then spraying. There really isn't a need to prime modern castings as the metals used have a very high tin content. The main purpose of the primer is to provide a good undercoat for the primary painting.
