soldierman
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Messages
- 4
Does anyone know where I can buy gold and silver Printers Inks. Used to buy it from Phil Kesseling, need some now and don't have a clue where I casn get it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Printers Ink in Metallics
- Thread starter soldierman
- Start date
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Paul Kernan
A Fixture
Try Chuck Robinson at Red Lancer or MIke Stelzel at Michael Roberts. Both had strong contact with Phil and are excellent guys to deal with.
Normo
Well-Known Member
Hi
I used to a friend who worked at a printers and he obtained a supply for me at no charge.
If you know of a printers in your area go along and ask for a small supply tell them why you want it and also take a small bottle just in case
My old dad had an expression that "If you dont ask, you dont get"
It has worked for me on several occassions and it is good pr for the company
They can only say no
Cheers
John
I used to a friend who worked at a printers and he obtained a supply for me at no charge.
If you know of a printers in your area go along and ask for a small supply tell them why you want it and also take a small bottle just in case
My old dad had an expression that "If you dont ask, you dont get"
It has worked for me on several occassions and it is good pr for the company
They can only say no
Cheers
John
Brent Fordham
Well-Known Member
I wonder if printer's ink damaged by freezing. I would consider ordering some, but live in a very cold climate and it would freeze in my mailbox (-30C). I may need to wait until summer 
Einion
A Fixture
It might but I think you'd be okay. Bearing in mind that printer's inks, like paints, have to be shipped in uninsulated trucks etc.Brent Fordham said:
Einion
Jamie Stokes
A Fixture
Being an ex printer, Ink just gets stiffer and stiffer as it chills. Once it comes back to room temp, it becomes easier to work.
Most inks from print shops is 'grease' based, in simple terms. So long as exposure to air is minimised, it should last a long time.
When it gets real warm, say in excess of 40 degrees celsius, then it goes really runny.
That is if you want to push some through a printing press.
As for using a brush, well, I wouldn't use my favourite sable for metallics, nor would I use it for printers gold.
Only used gold once, in trade school. fiddly stuff, took forever to wash the rollers up afterwards.
cheers
Most inks from print shops is 'grease' based, in simple terms. So long as exposure to air is minimised, it should last a long time.
When it gets real warm, say in excess of 40 degrees celsius, then it goes really runny.
That is if you want to push some through a printing press.
As for using a brush, well, I wouldn't use my favourite sable for metallics, nor would I use it for printers gold.
Only used gold once, in trade school. fiddly stuff, took forever to wash the rollers up afterwards.
cheers
megroot
A Fixture
Jamie,
I have question for you then. The layer up to the inkt is very hard after a wile.
I have to push trough it with a toothpick to take some inkt of the can.
Is it possible to remove this layer and get to the fluid inkt. At the moment it is almost impossible to get trough this layer.
marc
I have question for you then. The layer up to the inkt is very hard after a wile.
I have to push trough it with a toothpick to take some inkt of the can.
Is it possible to remove this layer and get to the fluid inkt. At the moment it is almost impossible to get trough this layer.
marc
Jamie Stokes
A Fixture
Marc,
yes, in the printing places I worked, we used to scrape off this top layer and throw it away; it would just make lumps and bad finishes.
To compare; it is like a tin of house paint. after some time, a 'skin' will form on the top, with the liquid underneath.
For small mouth jars, I would use a rod type tool, rather then risk a toothpick breaking off. A bit of thin brass (or some other metal) rod would be adequate.
As we know, all paints, and inks, are designed to dry on contact with air. So anything in a jar will dry quicker once the lid is opened.
I don't have any metal inks now, but if I had, thinking about it, I would probably store them in the fridge (Not the freezer) to extend the life of a specialty ink.
Hope this helps,
cheers
yes, in the printing places I worked, we used to scrape off this top layer and throw it away; it would just make lumps and bad finishes.
To compare; it is like a tin of house paint. after some time, a 'skin' will form on the top, with the liquid underneath.
For small mouth jars, I would use a rod type tool, rather then risk a toothpick breaking off. A bit of thin brass (or some other metal) rod would be adequate.
As we know, all paints, and inks, are designed to dry on contact with air. So anything in a jar will dry quicker once the lid is opened.
I don't have any metal inks now, but if I had, thinking about it, I would probably store them in the fridge (Not the freezer) to extend the life of a specialty ink.
Hope this helps,
cheers
megroot
A Fixture
Thanks Jamie,
As Dave Maddox is sending to me some small jar's with inkt i was wondering the following.
When the jar is opend would it help to extend the time to dry in the jar with some lid above the inkt. I was thinking about a floating lid made of styreen....just like the great oiltanks in Rotterdam.
Marc
As Dave Maddox is sending to me some small jar's with inkt i was wondering the following.
When the jar is opend would it help to extend the time to dry in the jar with some lid above the inkt. I was thinking about a floating lid made of styreen....just like the great oiltanks in Rotterdam.
Marc
Jamie Stokes
A Fixture
Marc,
the idea of a 'floating lid', like in oil tanks, is rather good!
Not sure the effect of unprotected styrene in contact with printers ink would be, long term (ie, greater then 4 - 9 months, for example).
So for materials, I would suggest something that fits the design of your idea, strong & flexible, yet relatively immune to the effects of the 'grease' base.
Materials? Maybe a backing of grease proof paper (sometimes used in baking liners) perhaps? [that is, this is what our suppliers used to use when we opened a new can of ink- the lid, a trimmed sheet of grease proof paper, and sometimes then there would be a skin of dried ink]
With out knowing the dimensions of the neck of the jar, couldn't say much else.
I think your idea has merit, Marc. feel free to post a visitors message, Ill share what I can!
Soldierman, apologies if it seems like we hijacked your thread. Going by the views count, it seems to have generated lots of interest. Hope the additional comments have been useful
cheers
the idea of a 'floating lid', like in oil tanks, is rather good!
Not sure the effect of unprotected styrene in contact with printers ink would be, long term (ie, greater then 4 - 9 months, for example).
So for materials, I would suggest something that fits the design of your idea, strong & flexible, yet relatively immune to the effects of the 'grease' base.
Materials? Maybe a backing of grease proof paper (sometimes used in baking liners) perhaps? [that is, this is what our suppliers used to use when we opened a new can of ink- the lid, a trimmed sheet of grease proof paper, and sometimes then there would be a skin of dried ink]
With out knowing the dimensions of the neck of the jar, couldn't say much else.
I think your idea has merit, Marc. feel free to post a visitors message, Ill share what I can!
Soldierman, apologies if it seems like we hijacked your thread. Going by the views count, it seems to have generated lots of interest. Hope the additional comments have been useful
cheers
Brent Fordham
Well-Known Member
An alternative to the floating lid idea is to use a product like this: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30268&cat=1,190,44133
It is an inert gas that you put into the paint container after use that forces out the air and helps to preserve it.
Brent
It is an inert gas that you put into the paint container after use that forces out the air and helps to preserve it.
Brent
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