problem with my series 7 brushes

[godfather]

Some of my series 7 brushes' tips are splitting even when loaded with paint and drying this way even when I make the point. The brushes look like Little snake tongues. Anything that can be done about this and what causes this? Thanks

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Eventually even quality brushes get worn out.

How long have you used them?

The "snake thounge" is usually caused by improper cleaning which leaves dried paint within the tubecasing. Try soaking them for a long time but very often this is a fatal damage.

I always dip my brushes in the solvent before paint so the brush is moist within and this prevents this from happening. Also good cleaning is important and do not take very long time.

Often I soak them in first soap and then balsam to preserve them better.

Cheers

 

[Einion]

This is generally a sign of a brush that's not been put together well. And as I've mentioned in a couple of past threads - including this one of yours - Series 7 brushes are not consistently good any more.

Einion

 

[John Bowery]

Einion,
Thank you so much for that very interesting treatise on Brushes. I learnt a great deal and it was extremely helpful. I always enjoy your tips. Thanks again
Cheers
John

 

[moore]

Same Problem

This is good to know.. I have a couple of brushes that have split also
right in the center... They are farily new brushes too.
The other problem I have is sometimes when I clean them.. I put the
soap on them and then kinda smash them in the palm of my hand
and sometimes they end up curved.. I know this happens with a
cheap brush, maybe I am just smashing it too hard. Or.. its worn out.

dee

 

[Tommi]

So what would you guys suggest as an alternative paint brush to the series 7? Some of mine are quite old and I am thinking of replacing them with somthing else

Regards
Tommi

 

[Einion]

Welcome John. That's what the archives are for

The other problem I have is sometimes when I clean them.. I put the soap on them and then kinda smash them in the palm of my hand...

I wouldn't recommend you wash Kolinsky rounds this way too frequently; for oil or enamel painters it is important to keep them clean by washing in addition to rinsing but friction is friction and you don't want to overdo it. The procedure for washing brushes that's outlined in so many painting books is for the care of hog-bristle brushes, which are very much tougher than sable and other softhairs.

It's actually an interesting illustration of the quality range in rounds, in terms of a brush's construction as well as the hairs themselves, whether they stand up well to this kind of thing. Some people get a hell of a lifespan from brushes that they don't care for particularly well, which can point to a lucky purchase of a sweet example or a very high-end range.

...and sometimes they end up curved..

Kolinsky or sable brushes should never curl at the tip of their own accord; this is generally a problem with synthetic brushes - I've had it happen with a single use. Brushes with curved tips do actually have their uses, but you can't really use them the same way as a round with a sharp point of course. If you want a brush with a needle point to stay that way then it's Kolinsky all the way (with caveats).

So what would you guys suggest as an alternative paint brush to the series 7?

See link in my first post above Tommi (second page).

Einion

 

[moore]

Einion
Thank you.. I feel a little silly now. I never thought to look further
into this.. I just thought bad purchase and would throw it away.
I will take better care when cleaning and not smash it in the palm
of my hand. I will be more gentle. Some of my brushes are not the
most expensive.. and some are a pretty fair price.. moslty the ones
for the eyes.

Thank you so much. I learned a lot.

dee

 

[Jeff]

I use The Masters brush cleaner on my brushes and it works wonders. I have brought back some brushes that I thought were beyond saving. I had seen it in art stores here in the states for some time then I bought a sample of it and the hand soap. After trying it I went out and bought the large size of both the brush cleaner and hand soap.

The brush cleaner is a lot like saddle soap it is in a plastic container and you get your brush wet and roll it around and get it foamy work it around and then let it sit for a couple of minutes. You can even let it sit over night if the brush is really bad. Wash the brush under a running tap and let it dry. As I said it has worked wonders on some of my old brushes.

The hand soap is one of the only soaps that really gets oil paint off of my hands and it does not dry them out like some soaps do. It has what I think are ground up walnut shells and it leaves you hands feeling pretty good where a soap like Lava sometimes just seems like it is sanding off the dirt and oil. I have also used the hand soap on my brushes once and it worked great the walnut shells really helped to break up the built up paint.

You can find it at most art supply places and even places like Michaels.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz069/11a/

 

[socko47]

Here is a web page with a lot of information about brushes including a review of different makers. Note that it is from 2004. Even has info on caring for your brushes.
http://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/wbrush.html

 

[Einion]

Incidentally Handprint also has the best information anywhere on colour theory, although it goes into such detail that it's a little heavy going.

Einion

 

[moore]

Good Article

Joe,

I read the link you gave. Very informative. I learned
a lot and found I was doing some things wrong once
I clear my brushes.
Thank you
Dee