Questions for Bill Horan

[Billhoran]

Miguel Angel,

The Tamiya story is part legend and part truth. I did used to paint a Tamiya kit in a weekend before I got into figures. However, that was when I was 14 years old and the painting was .. well, what you would expect from a 14-year old! Not very good. I do paint a 54mm figure in 2-3 days, sometimes less.

As for Leon Rampante, I have accepted a kind invitation from the people at Andrea Miniatures, but I have no idea what is planned yet. Did you see my presentation at Girona a few weeks ago?

Bill

 

[Lancer]

Hi Bill and Welcome
Just wanted to thank you for taking the time to chat with us, I know your work continues to inspire me! It's been a few years since I've made it south to a show, but I'm looking forward to seeing more of your work in person sometime soon.
Cheers
Mark

 

[herbwf]

Bill,
I'd like to add my thankyou for helping me get started in this hobby.

You tossed out a comment that just started my feeble little mind spinning. If you and Greg and the others did do a painter-sculptor swap, what great fundraisers they would make if there is going to be an auction of that type at the Boston show!

Knowing full well that I would only be an observer in the bidding war, it would be great to watch, and I'll bet it would be a topic of converstation till the next event. Might even be picked up by four more painter-sculptors 2 years from now?

I know you must have a full plate at this point but hey, I am always happy to stir the pot and volunteer others for hard work

Thanks for your time
Herb Forgey

 

[Miguel Angel Rodríguez]

Thanks for your quick response, Bill.
Unfortunately I was unable to attend Girona contest. I expect to be in Leon Rampante next year.

Have a nice Thanksgiving!

Best regards,

Miguel

 

[Marijn Van Gils]

Thanks for the reply Bill!

sorry that mine comes somewhat late...


I remember seeing your black watch figure in the flesh at euromilitaire 2003. It shows of these two challenges very well! You must have chosen the pose at least partly to give a good view on that gun. Very succesfull!

I don't get burnouts that quickly, since the dioramas I like building usually provide a lot of variation to me (braking apart the molds of a big plaster building gives a fysically very different experience than painting the face of a figure for example). Every couple of years, I need a break from big dioramas though, as they take so long to complete. Burnout indeed...

That is one reason why I am focussing on figures only at the moment. The other reason is that, at this moment, I have much more ideas for figures, and I see much more new challenges in them for me. So this diorama burnout feels more like the beginning of a figurine-modelling era for me!

Congrats on the newest projects (in the other tread) by the way! They look fantastic!

Best wishes,

Marijn

 

[Marijn Van Gils]

Sorry to take up this old tread, but the title is still appropriate for my question.

Bill, how do you go about painting black skin? Usually İ am not a big fan of exchanging colour-mixes, but this time knowing yours could give me more confidence.

İt is for one of the more "serious" projects, a black Gİ in Vietnam, the second after being bitten by a snake. Sculpting is nearing completion now.

Thanks a lot, and congratulations on the holliday project in the other tread, it looks fabulous again!

Marijn

 

[Billhoran]

Martin,

I use the same pallette of Humbrol colors I use for a Caucasian face, but my base color is usually some combination of red, leather and black (maybe with some Natural Wood to kill any "orangy" effect). How much of each depends on how dark or light you want the skin tone to be, and of course that effects the intensity of the highlight and shadow mixtures.

I add flesh to get highlight effects, and bring in some Burnt Umber oil paint for the shading (with black and red).

Hope this helps...

Bill

 

[JBoisson]

Bill,

You inadvertently made me a hero in the eyes of my nephew. Christmas at my folks, Sean, a baseball nut and a fair little pitcher, is showing off his new mobile phone with all the bells and whistles. He had downloaded a lot of pictures of famous baseball greats to view on the phone's little screen and he's quizzing me, who's this, who's that, etc. I looked at one somewhat blurry picture and I recognized the pose instantly from remembering one of your figures and instantly identified Jackie Robinson to my astounded nephew, amazed at the incredible breadth of his uncle's baseball knowlege. (NOT)
Thanks, Bill, I owe you one
Cheers
John B.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Hi again Bill!

Thanks for the book which I got myself for christmas present.

While reading your answer to Marjin about coloured skin, I was wondering if you have any mix or ideas for an face with oriental descent?

Hope youve had a nice christmas yourself.

Cheers

 

[Marijn Van Gils]

Thanks a lot Bill!
Great book by the way! İ also got it a couple of days before christmas, and only put it down to do some modeling myself, and some random social and food-related activities of course...

İ have to agree that your baseballplayers are amongst the best work you have ever done. Do you generally enjoy their creation a bit more than the military stuff?

For the people who think Bill is a fast painter: Diego Ruina paints a 54 mm in one day...
Wish İ was that fast. My own speed, 15 to 25 hours, still seems way too slow to me...

Thanks again,

Marijn

 

[MarkL]

Hello Bill,

could you tell something about how you do actually apply the putty to a figure. Do you use a special tool or the fingers? Do you roll out the stuff or just press it to the surface? Is there any kind of lubricant you use to smooth the putty out before adding folds? I know, these are quite sophisticated questions to describe and it would be better to just watch you doing it...
Nevertheless it would be very helpful for me.

Regards and wish you have a good change of the year,

Mark

 

[Billhoran]

Originally posted by MarkL@Dec 31 2004, 07:46 AM
Could you tell something about how you do actually apply the putty to a figure. Do you use a special tool or the fingers? Do you roll out the stuff or just press it to the surface? Is there any kind of lubricant you use to smooth the putty out before adding folds?

Mark

Mark,

First, have a look at the diagram Bob Tavis posted at the top of Page 2 of the News thread "Bill Horan's December Project". This shows the two part application of putty to a typical leg. I generally apply the putty in 2 or more applications when I am covering a specific area, rolling it out with my round, superglue-coated toothpick, and using my fingers if possible. The idea is to get the proper coverage and shape. If I have applied too much, I will just cut off a bit.

I don't always use a lubricant, but if my hands are a bit dry, I will try some hand lotion.

Hope this helps.

Bill

 

[RobH]

Hi Bill

Had more time to look at the book, and I have a question regarding the index.
I notice some figs are listed as conversion and some as scratchbuilt. Does this mean those particular figures had the heads scratchbuilt too? How do you go about scratchbuilding heads? - Duro throughout?

cheers

Rob

 

[yeo_64]

Hi Bill ! Like the others,I,too,have always been inspired by your work,starting with "Gundamak". Tahnks for taking the time to answer questions from us "planeteers";I really appreciate it :lol:. My question refers to a diorama you did in the 80s:"The Ghosts of Chillianwallah". Although it was featured in Military Modelling,I only managed to get the second half of your 2-part article on it. What I'd like to know is how you sculpted the quilted shako of the British troops in the dio ? Did you build it over an exisiting headgear or sculpted the whole thing from scratch ? Thanks in advance for answering and I'll be looking forward to attending your seminar in Boston later this year.Cheers and have a wonderful 2005 !
Kenneth

 

[georges64]

Dear Bill,
Did your interest for ACW and Victorians period finished?
And about 75 mm,I'm sure most of the planeteers will be happy to see 1 figure from you.I prefer this scale,better for details.
Happy 2005
cheers
georges64

Why not a 75mm ACW's vignette ,Bill for starting the new year

 

[jitch0t]

Hey Bill, can you post a pic of your workbench?

 

[Billhoran]

Here are responses to a few recent questions:

Rob: The use of a stock weapon (sword or rifle) and the amount of rework to the head I use are usually what marks the dividing line between conversion and scratchbuilt. I consider the baseball players scratch because the heads are so completely reworked (eyes, mouth, nose, cheeks, brow, ears, neck) that no evidence of the original head I started with remains - this is also the case on a few other figures - likenesses especially.

Kenneth: The quilted covers for the Albert shakos on the Chillianwallah figures were first built up with A & B putty, to provide a solid foundation for receiving the quilting, which was then added with straight Duro.

Georges: No 75mm stuff is in my future. Too complicated gettinbg the eweapons and heads, etc., and not a good enough reason to make the effort. Besides, quite a sufficient level of detail s possible in 54mm.

No photo available of my current work bench. There is a photo of my previous one (in the garage!) in the book.

Bill

 

[yeo_64]

Thanks,Bill,I appreciate the response from you to my query. Cheers !
Kenneth

 

[Alex M.]

Hey Bill,

I had a couple of new questions for you -

1- What have you found is the best source for 19th century pistols ?

2- What's the best way to go about sculpting cannonballs for groundwork (obviously a rolled ball of putty) - texture, painting, etc?

Thanks,

-Alex

 

[Billhoran]

Originally posted by Alex M.@Jan 4 2005, 12:14 AM
1- What have you found is the best source for 19th century pistols ?

2- What's the best way to go about sculpting cannonballs for groundwork (obviously a rolled ball of putty) - texture, painting, etc?

Alex:

1. Not sure whether you are referring to reference material (documentary reference) or hobby accesories. For documentation I use the internet, magazines, books (Ospreys, weapons books, Tradition magazine), etc.

For hobby accesories, I make quite a lot of use of the Andrea and Shenandoah pistols, but also the old Airfix Multipose British Webleys. Being plastic they are easy to rework, and they are pretty useful weapons. Holsters I prefer to fabricate myself with separate flaps, tabs, studs.

2. Gee, cannonballs are just as you said - round putty balls. I haven't had to use them very often. I did sculpt a cannonball with a powder sack attached (Civil War) awhile back, which Chris Mrosko cast in resin for me. I have a few left - don't know if Chris still has the molds. If they are expended shot, lying on the ground, they would be dirty/muddy, with even bits of sod attached. I would paint new, unfired cannonballs dark gray and rub them with some graphite powder (a.k.a. pencil lead).

Bill