Questions on how to work with metal figures

[theBaron]

we are fortunately lucky enough not to have Walmart stores in the UK Brad I am experimenting with Army painter
Skeleton bone , very fine and smooth .

Well, I'm not making a specific endorsement of Walmart. You can substitute your discount retailer of choice I've also sourced automotive primers at various auto supply stores over the years, too, as well as buying primer (Rustoleum) at our large hardware stores. My point is really that I've repurposed primers from other areas, but I've gravitated to using the Tamiya primer on my figures and models.

I'm glad you mentioned Army Painter, because you remind me-I do use Army Painter matte black, too, but specifically for my Maschinen Krieger kits. The matte black is the base for the scuffing technique I use to weather the armor. I get that same result, a fine surface, smooth. And since it's enamel, I can apply acrylics over it and then use a nylon scouring pad to scuff the top coats down to the black very easily.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Some pics of the scouring technique would be great Brad

 

[theBaron]

Sure thing, Ron! Here are some shots of one of my builds, the 1/20 "Grosser Hund", an AI fighting machine from the Maschinen Krieger series:











On that model, it's the legs and feet that show the most wear, but I scuffed any place where there would have been contact, like access panels, on the edges of the armor plates, etc.

This is another MaK subject, the Armored Fighting Suit (AFS) Mk 1, also in 1/20. A closeup during the build:



and the finished piece:



In this case, I messed up-without thinking about it, I used an enamel color for the top coat, instead of acrylic. That meant to scuff, I needed to use sandpaper. It shows in the shape of the marks, but it wasn't too bad. But it taught me to be more careful when reaching for rattlecans on the bench!

I hope that illustrates better the technique I described.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Brad I had a modelling friend os some 30 years ago who was an AFV modeller , his technique was to scuff up with an old toothbrush , off course on those dark ages the advent of acrylics hadn't happened so it was with oil based paints such as Humbrol or Revell ; results were very good

 

[Jazz]

Getting back to the choice of Phoenix Follies. Great choice. These are really good figures for their day. I've done loads of them over the years. The great thing about these figures for beginners is....you can strip them off and start again if you don't like the result. Being metal they are easier to strip down than resin pieces. I have an original hansom cab from Phoenix which was given to me in 1996 and I have stripped and repainted that at least 8 times. It looks better every time I paint it. Nitromorse paint stripper is great for metal figures. Not sure how easy it is to get since all these horrible acid attacks gave it a bad name but us modellers use it for genuine reasons. Make sure the figure is washed well after being stripped and wear rubber gloves as the nitromorse will burn skin. Also stay well ventilated as the fumes can burn the eyes. The Follies do have a lot of exposed female flesh so if you are good at painting with an airbrush it will help, something I've never mastered. So if you're like me use acrylic flesh then shade with oils in the shady bits and creases. A bit of practice works wonders. Enjoy!
John