Resinfigure in oven?

[Drenth]

Hi planeteers

One question - hope anybody can help me:

Is the resinfigure toxic (vapour) when i fill the gaps perhaps with fimo or supersculpy on a resinfigure and put them with +90 Celsius in the oven?

My wife won't that I bake figures in our oven - i think itsnot toxic but im not shure... I've good results with this technic and wont stop bake figures also with oelcolor...

Some where out there who can answer this question (seriously).

Best regards - hopefully i'm right

Bertus

 

[Dan Morton]

I would not advise using the same oven you use to cook food to dry and set a figure made with heat-setting putties or to speed up setting of air-drying putties. I use an old crock pot (slow cooker) my wife was going to throw out or high wattage light bulbs to dry and set putties. I use both in a well-ventilated area and usually have a small fan on.

What vapors are produced when you heat putties?

Air-drying putties (Kneadatite, MagicSculpt, A+B, Milliput) will yield small amounts of carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide and aldehydes.

Heat-setting putties (Fimo, Sculpey) will yield small amounts of hydrochloric acid vapor.

This is not a dig at the manufacturers or a complaint, but it can be confusing for a non-chemist, non-industrial hygiene engineer to read and understand the information the manufacturers provide on Safety Data Sheets. The regulations written to tell manufacturers how to prepare safety data sheets (or Material Safety Data Sheets MSDS) had to have a list of known hazardous materials and quantity limits for those hazardous materials, the manufacturers are not required to identify other possibly harmful materials or concentrations of known hazardous materials below the quantity limits. When a manufacturer states that there are no hazardous materials in their product, they mean there are no materials in their product on the list and/or if the material is present it is below the quantity limits.

“All things are poison and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes a thing not a poison.” This has often been shortened to “The dose makes the poison.” Paracelsus.

Nothing is harmless folks. It's the amount taken into the body per unit time.

Extreme examples:
A few grains of salt on your French fries make them tasty. If you eat a pound of salt on those fries...a trip to the ER will be in your immediate future.
A glass of water rehydrates the body and is healthful. 10 gallons of water drunk in a short period of time...

Sorry for the length of this reply!

All the best,
Dan

 

[Drenth]

Thank you much - think its a best answer i've ever get - thank you friend!

 

[Drenth]

What's about the resinfigure? Is it under heat (+90) toxic (vapour)?

 

[valiant]

I wouldnt recommend putting a resin figure in a domestic oven at that temperature. The oils can leach out and the structure can blister or distort. Bear in mind that we can use hot water to gently reshape the resin, so extended periods in an oven at a similar temperature will inevitably cause damage. As Dan says, the exothermic fumes contain all manner of toxins, so, personally, I would avoid using an oven at that temperature.

Using a bulb to dry paint in a drying cabinet is safe enough, as the temperature generated is much lower.

Steve

 

[pokrad]

Bulb is not enough for SS or FIMO because they bake at 120-130 degrees C, 15 min for every 6mm thick layer. FIMO and SS are not putties but polymer clay.
I baked FIMO and SS over a resin base(120 degrees C) , (of course not in the owen I prepare food), never got any blisters, leaking or whatever... The only thing I did was laying down some aluminum foil below the resin base.
Resin does not melt at that temperature (at least not the resin I used), but it might deform if You have thin and long parts (hands, fingers etc...). It is also possible to cure the SS and FIMO by boiling it in the water or using heat gun.
Anyway, I would never fill the gaps on resin with SS or FIMO because You got two very different materials and it's almost impossible to sand and finish those areas right. Sandpaper affects the two materials very differently, SS or FIMO will often break or even crumble... The only reason why I did it, was to add(sculpt) complete new layers on top of the resin base (hair, clothing, etc...).
For filling gaps use some putty - MagicSculp, GreenStuff (or whatewer it's called those days), ProCreate etc.. You do not need to heat those, just wait for an hour or two before sanding, or use bulb as suggested if You are not patient enough

Regards !

 

[pokrad]

I forgot to mention Tamiya Epoxy putty - it can be found in almost any scale modeler store or webshop, and when cured it has almost same hardness as resin -sands perfectly. The putties I mentioned before are mostly sculpting putties, Tamiya putty is not so good for sculpting but perfect for filling gaps...

 

[Ulrich]

I use apoxy sclupt for my figures and put them in a little box with a 40 watt bulb (that make about 60 ° celcius in the box) Because I paint with oil I use the same box for my painted figures. I would not put resin figures in a 90 ° C oven, because I think some resin parts could bend.

 

[Dan Morton]

"Anyway, I would never fill the gaps on resin with SS or FIMO because You got two very different materials and it's almost impossible to sand and finish those areas right. Sandpaper affects the two materials very differently, SS or FIMO will often break or even crumble... The only reason why I did it, was to add(sculpt) complete new layers on top of the resin base (hair, clothing, etc...)."

Yes - exactly right. Very different materials!

Remember the ventilation no matter what type of heat you apply to any of these materials. If you do a huge amount of sculpting and casting, there are local exhaust ventilation systems that can be installed to remove the vapors from your home completely. If you are just a hobbyist and don't use the putties every day, just a small fan to dilute the vapor would be helpful.

Remember to wear gloves when you work with any of these putties. All these materials have some dermal (skin contact) toxicity and you can absorb some of the chemical constituents of the complex mixtures in the products. Thin, nitrile rubber tight-fitting gloves will work pretty well; I use them. Don't tell me you've tried them and can't use them. Anybody can. Be patient and adapt your methods and protect yourself. I know of at least two PF members who have had diagnosed dermatitis and skin irritation requiring treatment when they mixed and handled the air-drying putties bare-handed.

I'm not trying to preach here; just explain.

All the best,
Dan

 

[Drenth]

It's a hard and dangerous hobby with my lovely figures

 

[pokrad]

It is mater of quantity/time - even water can be toxic if You drink more than 10l in one hour
I have often tried many things because I did not have right material for the job. Some things do work, some do not - and this is one that almost always fail - I am speaking from experience. SS is the worst thing you could fill gap with
There is one more reason: even if You do not ruin Your resin parts by heating, and even If you succeed to sand it, there is risk that your primer coat will never dry... Yes, I have two or three SS sculpted pieces that I primed and they are not dry after more that 3 years - they are sticky after all that time. Some primers do not have that problem, but some obviously trigger some kind of chemical reaction with baked SS...

 

[Drenth]

Only one recognition: bad damned hooby with this little figures - only one to say; hate you - love you!

Yes i agree with you - but with fimo soft i get very well solutions ! And i've sculpted a lot figures with - no problem with a very smooth surface... But bake in kitchen i will let it be thx friends!

 

[pokrad]

but with fimo soft i get very well solutions ! And i've sculpted a lot figures with - no problem with a very smooth surface...

I think You got me wrong - English is not my native language so it's hard to express my points
SS and FIMO are great for sculpting and I have seen pieces made of FIMO with the quality that is astonishing (maybe even some of Yours ?).
The problem is not to get the smooth surface on it. The problem is when You apply FIMO over the gap on resin piece and polish it - now the FIMO surface is smooth, but You often have some sharp edge on resin part that is poking out, and You have to sand it down to make the surface clean... There comes the problem: when you move sandpaper over that "combined" surface it sands unevenly as the materials are so different, FIMO and especially SS could crumble and even fall out.
Hope this time I was more clear

 

[Drenth]

Ok i understand. Thx man!

 

[Oda]

Dan,this was a very educative posting.Valuable information I didn't know.Thanks mate!

Oda.

 

[Dan Morton]

"Dan,this was a very educative posting. Valuable information I didn't know. Thanks mate!" Cheers Oda! I was an industrial hygiene engineer working on reducing health hazards in workplaces for 38 years [now retired ] . So these issues are not new to me. I hate to see anybody harmed by a hobby!

Didn't intend to hijack your thread Drenth.

All the best,
Dan

 

[Drenth]

Absolutely not - i'm very very happy with your statements and the knowledge that you share with us! Very helpfully

 

[pokrad]

"Dan,this was a very educative posting. Valuable information I didn't know. Thanks mate!" Cheers Oda! I was an industrial hygiene engineer working on reducing health hazards in workplaces for 38 years [now retired ] . So these issues are not new to me. I hate to see anybody harmed by a hobby!

Didn't intend to hijack your thread Drenth.

All the best,
Dan

Ok, great, then You must know the right answer I was told that fumes from resin are not by far as dangerous as resin dust (from sanding or sawing).
Allegedly dust sticks to Your lungs and can cause cancer.
If that is true, it is more important to wear the mask when you saw Your resin pieces than when You pour in resin into the mold ???

 

[CGS military figures]

This is ONLY how I work with materials, but I also never care about toxins as I have licked too many brushes.
If a oven drying piece, don't re bake, generally that will cause bubbles as it has been baked to its maximum already.
Any filling on a oven drying piece is better done with a air drying or 2 part, ie milliput.
If master is milliput, yes you can add with oven drying but the part may go brittle.
If resin, fill with milliput and let dry natural, work in stages and it may take longer but previous work won't get damaged.
My theory is always work back from max temperature.

 

[jai]

buy a small electric oven for your work, do not use the oven at home, and your wife will be happy ....

a small bakery less than a scale figure coast