Roman Aquilifer I C AD.

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Hey guys.
Thank you very much for the encouragement and nice words, I always appreciate them.



Hey Wong,
usually never dry brush metal, but I have used it on occasion for other things.


David,
the figure is a 90 mm. and it is definitely well scupted.


Stephan,
the reason why you don't see any holes ,is because I glue the extremities on the figure with two part epoxy,when dry I drill a hole through the part and into the figure and I insert a metal rod coated with epoxy glue,fill the hole,let dry and than carefully sand it. As far as filling gaps after attaching painted parts, I've never had a problem, usually if the figure is well cast and well sculpted you will never have the problem.
I always to the the armor first and the face last.

Stephan this is a close up picture of the Lorica squamata that you requested,
this is the best I can do with my camera.hope this helps.
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

Cheers,
Roc. :)
 

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I notice that you paint your figures as I do.......the arms are done seperately and then attached later after you do the torso. Do you peg the arms with brass rod to a holder and paint them? Alot of people find it difficult to do the figures in pieces and prefer to paint the figure after all parts are assembled. Was just curious which method you prefer for ease of painting.
 
Yeah Guy, did the same question one site before.
(And others)
Please answer Roc.
I am very interested in your workingstyle. ;)
 
Hey Stephan,
I use the wet on wet technique.

1- Aplly base coat.
2- I lay on my medium shadows and blend the edges with base coat.
3- medium highlights blending the edges with base coat.
4- add deep shadows where ever needed and blend.
5 - add high highlights and blend.
6- when completely dry I will accentuate the highlights and deepen shadows with glazes.

I always paint the armor first, than the flesh and the garments.


THE ARMOR
1- a) Brushed the armor with a swuede brush.

Burnished the armor 000 steel wool.

c} Washed it with warm water and Ivory dishwashing detergent,make sure you
you rinse well.

d} gave the the armor numerous controlled washes of Ivory black mixed
with turps.

e} When dry I burnished the extreme highlight points with the end of a knitting
needle.
f} weathered the bottom half of the armor with a wash of raw Umber. Did not
apply sealer beacause I wanted a tarnished look.

THE FACE AND FLESH.
Base = Rembrant flesh ochre + windsor Newton Transparent Gold Ochre +
Rembrant burnt Sienna and a touch of Windsor blue to cool the mix .
medium shadow = Base + Mars Brown .
Dark shadows = Allizarin brown.
Extreme shadows = Sepia.

Medium Highlights = base + Naples Yellow.
extreme highlights = Naples yellow.

The mouth.
Burnt umber + magenta.

The teeth.
unbleached white with with a touch of Cadmium red.


Rose tones
Cadmium red + touch of Indian red mixed into medium shade mix.

Lips
Added more indian red to rose tones.




To kill any sheen left by the oils and to dry figure, I will put the figure in the oven for two days at a temperature of 140 degrees.

I f you have any other question don't hesitate to ask.I' m glad I could help.

Cheers my friend.

Roc.
 
Hey Guy, sorry for the delay in answering your question.
I usually paint the torso first,When dry I will peg the arms to the torso and fill gaps
with felmors glue , when this stage is finished, than I will prime and paint the arms,it usually works for me.

Roc. :)
 
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