WIP Rumpelstiltskin by Spira

[milbenplage]

This is Rumpelstiltskin sculpted by Lucas Pina released via Spiramirabelis. It's sold out and out of production as it is with Spiramirabelis miniatures.

This is a pretty early sketch. There are only a few colors involved and everything will be covered later. So exact ratios and a wet palette is not necessary.

I started with a Chaos Black primer by GW and covered everything with a layer of Raven Black by MINIM.

Raven Black is very matt black and it's perfect because other layers will stick to it way better than to the Chaos Black primer. (Should with every matt black f.e. AK)

The skin got a coat of Dark Sea Blue (VMC). His left side got a layer of Burnt Umber (VMC). I tried to leave out the shadows.

I mixed Dark Sea Blue with a bit of Emerald for his right side and sketched highlights according to a lightsource from r.a. 45° angle from below.

I mixed Sunny Skin Tone (VMC) with Burnt Umber and added more highlights to his left side taking cast shadows into account for his hands.

I mixed Burnt Umber with Cadmium Skin (old VGC) and placed it around the nose. Cadmium skin adds a little more warmth than Sunny Skin Tone.

I did a mix of Dark Sea Blue Emerald and Burnt Umber vor the parts where the warmth and cold side of the miniature meet.

Thats all for now.

 

[Nap]

Hi there

Good to see what's on the bench ......this is quite rightly sold out it's a cracking sculpt

Liking the way your starting the flesh and thanks for the colour details

Following with interest

Looking forward to seeing more

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[Steve Brodie]

Wow, excellent info on the OSL as well

 

[Briggsy]

Interesting little fella off to a good start, thanks for providing the detail as you paint, all very helpful.

Cheers Simon

 

[Larsen E. Whipsnade]

"The queen will never win this game, Rumpelstiltskin is my name!" Looking good.
Rick

 

[milbenplage]

A little update.



I used the same colors as before. Just added Dark Vermillion (VMC) to the palette for the nose, ears and the nuckles.
I just refined everything.

For the skin I also added Rosy Flesh (new VGC). I did a mix of Burnt Umber and Sunny Skin Tone and a bit of Cadmium Skin for the parts where the cold and warm lights meet and another mix where I added Rosy Flesh for the warm party only.
P.S. I used AI Cam for the pictures ... Thats why to pics look a bit odd. I need to take better pictures without that AI crap

 

[milbenplage]

I used mixes of Dark Sea Blue, Emerald ans Sunny Skintone for the cold lights on his right side. I need to add more skintone to the mixes. It's still a sketch and will change.

P.S. I will change the cheek and jaw of his left side, because it got too cold and dark

 

[Briggsy]

He's looking intriguing the lighting effect is going to be great, really enjoying this thread.

Cheers Simon

 

[milbenplage]

He's looking intriguing the lighting effect is going to be great, really enjoying this thread.

Cheers Simon

The OSL won't be very prominent. It's an blue light. But the atmospheric light will be bright enough to build up enough light to add some color to the parts not hit by the warm light.

Means: The blueish light will stay blue (of course) but the lit parts won't be blue, but a mix of blue and the color that those parts have. F.e. the skin will have blue in the mix, but the color will be a strange blueish grey. The red parts of the clothes won't be blue, but rather purple.

For the gold ball on the other hands the reflections will be blue since material is more reflective than skin or cloth.

That's something some ppl don't take into account when painting OSL. Depending on the reflectivness (is this a word?) of the material the light will effect the color of the lit parts differently. This will lead to strange colors sometimes. Especially when you lit a material with a light that is the complementary color of the material. That's something you should avoid.

 

[Briggsy]

Interesting, I've tried this on 28mm gaming mini's which was fun but of course there is less room to cock things up. You mentioned the gold ball, the reflections will be influenced by the colour of the metal. Looking forward to seeing this progress.

Cheers Simon

 

[milbenplage]

Interesting, I've tried this on 28mm gaming mini's which was fun but of course there is less room to cock things up. You mentioned the gold ball, the reflections will be influenced by the colour of the metal. Looking forward to seeing this progress.

Cheers Simon

I didn't mention this directly, but yes. Especially gold is a tricky material since it can't reflect all colors, other than polished steel f.e.. But for the sake of the atmosphere the gold ball will get some blueish/greenish reflections.

For OSL: This is a rather big bust, but it shows how OSL or backlight would work. I did this with spray cans only. In the lower rows you can see how it is build up. The OSL/backlight got covered by the other brighter lights. Always remember that colored light is darker than white light. This is especially important with f.e. colored armor. A red space marine looks red because it is hit by white light. A green OSL won't effect the red where it is lit white. The green would only be visible where you have shadows. Since the red doesn't look red in the shadows (is darker and less saturated) one can go with a nice green. In the areas where the red gets more saturated due to the white light hitting it a bit you would paint a mix of red and green.
P.S. If the red is very reflective though, you would have small green reflections in the areas hit by the white light too.

 

[Briggsy]

Yeah, never got that involved, mostly just glows from spell casting or under lit by lava. As often as I get involved in colour theory I tend to forget it all as I move onto the next project.

Cheers Simon

 

[milbenplage]

The post above also counts for small OSL like Plasmaguns or Spells.



This is a example for different materials. The rather matt skin is effected differently by the OSL than the eyeball. The skin is tinted by the green. The eyball, though, just gets two little reflections that also are way brighter than the green in the skin, due to the reflectivness of the moist eyeball.

P.S. This going a bit out of topic. But I thought it would be nice to share this stuff.

Yeah, never got that involved, mostly just glows from spell casting or under lit by lava. As often as I get involved in colour theory I tend to forget it all as I move onto the next project.

Cheers Simon

Colortheory is only one part of good OSL. You always have to take lighttheory and materialtheory into account. Doing this on 28mm mini for gaming would be a bit too much, though. But for busts and 75mm you should think about this stuff.

 

[Briggsy]

Thanks for that, I rarely go above 75mm my preferred size is 1/35th to 54mm and rarely would I go into OSL territory as i want to stay away from fantasy. Though it is always relevant to painting flats, not done these for quite a few years though.

Cheers Simon

 

[Nap]

Hi there

Really enjoying the updates , coming on nicely

Also enjoying the posts ref OSL ...very informative

Looking forward to seeing more

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[milbenplage]

I did some more work.
Besides that I added more Sunny Skin Tone to the mixes I didn't change anything. It just looks a bit more refined (and better due to the camera).

 

[Briggsy]

Looking good.

Cheers Simon

 

[Nap]

Coming along really nicely

Thanks for the updates

Happy painting

Nap

 

[Ferris]

Nice work and great insights.
Thanks for your detailed explanations.

Adrian

 

[milbenplage]

So I did some more work on the Rumpelstiltskin.
The yellowish parts are made of German Camo Dark Green (VMC), English Uniform (VMC) and Japanese Uniform WWII (VMC). I added some Dark Sea Blue (VGM) to the parts in shadow.
The "leather" parts are painted with Burnt Umber (VMC) and Dark Sea Blue.