SBS for painting white shirts in oils

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Gary D

PlanetFigure Supporter
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
974
Location
Alberta, Canada
Hi, does anyone have a SBS for painting white shirts (blouses) in oils? Do people use a white vallejo acrylic base coat and then highlight with Titanium white and then use Paynes Grey as a shadow? Seems like I'm missing something here and therefore I'm not sure if i have this right or not.

Would appreciate some help. :D

Thanks

Gary D.
 
Gary, i use humbrol white as primer coat, w+n titanium buff base coat then raw umber for shading with titanium white for highlights. Seems to work for me, well so far anyway.
Hope this helps.
Barrie.
 
Hi, does anyone have a SBS for painting white shirts (blouses) in oils? Do people use a white vallejo acrylic base coat and then highlight with Titanium white and then use Paynes Grey as a shadow? Seems like I'm missing something here and therefore I'm not sure if i have this right or not.

Would appreciate some help. :D

Thanks

Gary D.

If you follow the SBS on Magister Militum you can see how i do it.
 
Gary:

To muddy the waters, it will depend if you want a warm or cool white. Regardless, I usually start with an off white undercoat mixing varying combinations of Humbrol white, black and wood.

Warm
My favourite was given to me by Jason Green. Mix WN Titanium White, WN Lamp Black and Italian Earth (Old Mussini, I think). Add more black and earth for shadows and add white for highlights, finishing with pure white for the final light. Go back a few days later and touch up the deep shadows and final highlight.

Cool
Pretty close to above except I use WN Raw Umber and a dab of Prussian Blue in the initial mix. Technique is the same.

I find Payne's Grey has a slight bluish tint so it would probably work for the cool mix.

Paul
 
Got a link? You've got to add a link!


This is part one
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36320
this is part two
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36351
This is part three.
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36427
Here it needs just more highlight.
Part four.
More highlights needed with more white untill i'm satisfied.
The highest highlight is white.....you can go no whiter than that.
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36451
 
I think Paul is absolutely correct, Payne’s Gray is far too blue in my opinion for shading whites. I use strictly Raw Umber and Titanium white for my whites. I undercoat in a white, or just off-white acrylic (Vallejo usually) depending on how clean or how weathered my final whites are going to be. I usually mix up about 4 steps from darkest shadow tone to lightest highlight. I paint just as I would any other color, from shadows to highlights. I would be careful about the pure white highlights though, use them sparingly if at all. It tends to be too "pure" white for my tastes usually as a final highlight. In the attached pics, even the whitest highlight you see on the helmet lets say, is not pure white. It still has the slightest trace of Raw Umber in it.

I’ve included a couple pics of the results of the Raw Umber and T-white combo that I use. The Aztec helmet is the project currently on my desk, good timing I guess! I added a pic of the small tube-like feather holders that are a part of his headdress on top of the helmet. I did this because I did use a slightly different mix there. I added some Yellow Ochre to that mix in order to get a better look of “bone” there. I’m not certain if that is absolutely correct for that piece or not, but in my mind they would have used bone for those tube-y feather holder thingys (technical terms abound, LOL!), so I went for the slightly more yellowed look of old bone there! These pics show a good diversity of areas that I might apply my mix….web gear/straps, blouses and the painted wood of the helmet.

Good luck!

Jay H.
 

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Gary D said:
Do people use a white vallejo acrylic base coat and then highlight with Titanium white and then use Paynes Grey as a shadow?
Far too blue for my taste (Payne's Grey is typically a mix of French Ultramarine and a black).

Generally I would go with neutral shadows. Simple tints of black using white are generally already blue, so in practice this usually means adding umber into the mix as well. Burnt Umber would be my preference normally, but a sienna or ochre for the lighter values in particular can work well.

Einion
 
Jay, Paul, Einion, Marc, and Barrie, thanks for your input. Gordie thanks for pitching in. I'll do some test painting right away before I tackle the fig. I can't find anyone here in Calgary that carries Old Mussini and I can't seem to find a colour chip on the internet so I can replicate Italian Earth by mixing Winsor Newton oils. I'll keep searching though.


Thanks again, (y)

Gary
 
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