Lets paint a flat figure with Oils
- Thread starter Briank
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Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
Ah good, a lot easier to paint, most of mine were larger still. Though I do like the traditional 30mm ones, just a bit too small for my eyes these days.
Cheers Simon
Cheers Simon
megroot
A Fixture
Oke,
I have some comments.
You use black for shading the green and highlight it with white. Well I learned never use black or white for shading and highlighting because the colors will look muddy. And so this is what happen. "Always "shade with the complementary color, and you have a great shade without muddy the colors.
For green you have to shade with red, and for the ochre you have to shade with blue-violet.
For Highlight on the green you have to use yellow. Don't go to far with the yellow because it end quick into a yellow-green
For the ochre you can best highlight with Napels yellow.
Further I good only applaud for your work here, because we dinosaures with oilpaint are outnumberd.
Marc
I have some comments.
You use black for shading the green and highlight it with white. Well I learned never use black or white for shading and highlighting because the colors will look muddy. And so this is what happen. "Always "shade with the complementary color, and you have a great shade without muddy the colors.
For green you have to shade with red, and for the ochre you have to shade with blue-violet.
For Highlight on the green you have to use yellow. Don't go to far with the yellow because it end quick into a yellow-green
For the ochre you can best highlight with Napels yellow.
Further I good only applaud for your work here, because we dinosaures with oilpaint are outnumberd.
Marc
Hi Marc, yes agree complementary colour is the norm but with flats you have to exaggerate, shade has to be deeper and lights brighter, always two steps from the tone you would use on a round figure as the norm, always told to use green to shade red, never worked have to use dark blue to make it work!
Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
OK so just to confuse things further, I used to use both methods in oils and still do in acrylic, complimentary colour first then yo get the real intensity just a touch of Mars Black, or Army Painter Matt Black. It's all down to what works for each painter and is really interesting reading how others do it. Loving the thread.
Cheers Simon
Cheers Simon
megroot
A Fixture
REd and Green are the complimentary colors from each other, so it worked both sides. If you want darker shades I prefer a very dark brown instead black.
but that is my aproche. (I mis the theacher in color theory here on the planet. I thought he used this name "Eilon")
That is interesting, does explain why the "with HDR filter" version of my Sabine Vignette looked better to everyone who voted in my little poll than the "true" version. I will need to work out how to add more contrast as I start doing more flats, I thought they were already fairly high contrast.
Hi, i hope brian will not get mad if i will share an advice in his thread.
I usually prime with the neutral grey colour(andrea) + pre sketch of lights and shades. During the painting I re prime with the black (andrea) to split items. As you can find on pics uploaded. However it depends of what do you prefer or what do you want to achieve.
Have a nice painting, j.
I assume when you say re prime that would be a basecoat of black? Do you then leave the edge of the black showing to delineate between areas of the figure? like a wargamer would replicate with a "blackline" technique?
last part, spokes and more hi-lights
Not happy with the old guys left arm so did a bit more work and the lights on the soldier need toning down, a touch here and there and that's it.
Now leave it for a week or so and look again and sort out the mistakes, this is not show winning but I hope gives you the idea to have a go and don't worry about flats being to hard to paint.
The last photo shows the colours used so give it a go and you'll be surprise how good your figure looks
Not happy with the old guys left arm so did a bit more work and the lights on the soldier need toning down, a touch here and there and that's it.
Now leave it for a week or so and look again and sort out the mistakes, this is not show winning but I hope gives you the idea to have a go and don't worry about flats being to hard to paint.
The last photo shows the colours used so give it a go and you'll be surprise how good your figure looks
Jozef, your have to show how you paint as we all have different ways and your 30mm are a bit special
Briggsy
PlanetFigure Supporter
Nicely painted Briank also fesak_j. Sounds like a good idea to get more flats on show. I realise I'm talking myself into a corner as in haven't painted one in about 15 years and my oils are probably all solid in their tubes by now. Will have a think and see what I have and give this a go if others are also willing.
Cheers Simon
Cheers Simon
I will certainly be painting more, when I can get hold of them.
Hi Brian
A massive THANK YOU for this thread ....really interesting to see and very helpful
Have you a link to 2D Figurines as well
Look forward to seeing any rework after leaving it for a week
Hope we see more flats in the " show us your flats thread "
Happy benchtime
Nap
Will move to techniques when you are happy
A massive THANK YOU for this thread ....really interesting to see and very helpful
Have you a link to 2D Figurines as well
Look forward to seeing any rework after leaving it for a week
Hope we see more flats in the " show us your flats thread "
Happy benchtime
Nap
Will move to techniques when you are happy
I m not familiar with the wargamer technique, however yes I re prime by black (mostly equipment only) to leave the very thin edges to extend the contrast. The main figure remains primed in grey. Eg.: if you will paint the white strap over the red coat, without splitting areas it does not look good imo, especially in 30mm scale
j.
