Sculpting a helmet

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Ferris

Ferris

A Fixture
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
5,349
Location
The Netherlands
Hi,

I need to make a replacement helmet for a British WW2 1:16 figure.
Are there tips and tricks on how to approach sculpting of a helmet?

I'm thinking about making a stack of plasticard cross sections and filling the 'steps' with magic sculpt. Would that be a good method?

Thanks for any advice!

Cheers,
Adrian
 
The only advice I can offer is to have good photo references (like the source Mick posted above, for example) and check them frequently during the process. The tin hat is a relatively simple shape, but getting the shape of any object right is always the trick, isn't it?

I'm thinking now of the toy soldier maker, Pickelhaube Miniatures, he was a fella from Oz, if I remember, and he specialized in Imperial German subjects, as his trade name suggests. And while his figures were very nice, his Pickelhauben were off. The crown was shaped OK, but he often got the shape of the front and rear visors wrong. And that was a shame, because it was a flaw in an otherwise good product.

Prost!
Brad
 
British helmet, very simple. Flat circle of plastic sheet of the appropriate dimension and thickness for the brim, with a round blob of MS on top for the crown. Let the blob set up a little then round it off with a wet finger or brush and blend in to the brim to get the proper shape.I did one recently, I used my pinkie finger around the bottom to get the gradient, seemed to be about right. The British helmet is probably the simplest one to do. I wouldn't worry about the plasticard cross section.
 
Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies.

@John: Found it!: http://www.planetfigure.com/threads/making-a-tommy-helmet.46739/#post-475314. Thanks!

@Mick: Thanks again for the pictures.

@Brad: AGreed, hard to catch a 'regular' shape. The eye is well-trained to spot small deviations from regular forms....wouldn't want to try this with more difficult forms, such as the US helmet!

@Jason: Thanks for the advice. Perhaps the approach I have in mind is too complicated. I intended to take into account the 'non-circular' form, but this makes things very complicated. Should probably try your method first. If it is right it will save me much time. Thinking about trying this in two steps though: First the plastic disk and lower rim and after hardening the inner dome. And maybe mount the thing on my slow-turning drill, like a mini-ceramic turntable.

Feeling inspired now and ready to try...

@Nap: Thanks for the lead, but let me try Jason's tip first before crying for help and bothering Jimbo... ;-)

Cheers guys,
Adrian
 
The MK1 "Brodie" helmet of WW1 was circular. The WW2 Mk 2 is actually an oval shape. Front to back 34 cm. Side to side 31 cm Height 14.5 I believe there were slight variations but as I was making them in 32nd and 30th I used reference pictures and built them around existing heads.

Martin
 
theBaron said:
The only advice I can offer is to have good photo references (like the source Mick posted above, for example) and check them frequently during the process. The tin hat is a relatively simple shape, but getting the shape of any object right is always the trick, isn't it?

I'm thinking now of the toy soldier maker, Pickelhaube Miniatures, he was a fella from Oz, if I remember, and he specialized in Imperial German subjects, as his trade name suggests. And while his figures were very nice, his Pickelhauben were off. The crown was shaped OK, but he often got the shape of the front and rear visors wrong. And that was a shame, because it was a flaw in an otherwise good product.

Prost!
Brad
Click to expand...


I don't know if you've seen my figures with pickelhuaben. I found them easier to make than the British helmet, as there were so many variations of model and manufacture.

Martin
 
Thanks a lot Martin.
It was such dimensions that I was looking for!

Would you also happen to know the front/back, left/right dimensions of the 'main dome', if you know what I mean??

Looking at pictures I get the feeling the inner dome is slightly more oval than the large circumference.

I did some first playing around with wax and plasticard and think that I will be able to make a good-looking helmet....

Cheers,
Adrian
 
I know what you mean about the different angles. The way I do it is to hold up the piece I'm working on, between my eye and the reference picture until they are the same size. Then just follow the shape. Once I have it right I like to make a mould, so that I don't have to do it again !! :)

Martin
 
Useful set of photos for this WW2 helmet. Looks like it has been extensively cleaned and re-painted. Duh.
https://www.amazon.com/Dated-British-Brodie-Steel-Helmet/dp/B0036C0MXY

There are two types of WW1 Brodie helmet - the earlier version without a folded lip rim and the later version with a folded lip rim.
Were there multiple versions of WW2?

ps - Amazon has blocked copying the images from the above item.

All the best,
Dan
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I made this one using 2 pieces of plastic card laminated for the rim, plastic rod for the rolled edge and a kids toy ring that gave me the basic curve.​
Then I rolled out Aves epoxy putty to a thin sheet, let it set up a bit and laid it over the structure to help me get a slightly "hammered" look I was going for.​
Mine is on the left and the kit is on the right.​
​
 

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Dan Morton said:
Useful set of photos for this WW2 helmet. Looks like it has been extensively cleaned and re-painted. Duh.
https://www.amazon.com/Dated-British-Brodie-Steel-Helmet/dp/B0036C0MXY

There are two types of WW1 Brodie helmet - the earlier version without a folded lip rim and the later version with a folded lip rim.
Were there multiple versions of WW2?

ps - Amazon has blocked copying the images from the above item.

All the best,
Dan
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Dan.
The nice and straight front and side view is particularly helpful, as I am drafting scale drawings. Will post them when done.

Cheers,
Adrian
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Mongo Mel said:
I made this one using 2 pieces of plastic card laminated for the rim, plastic rod for the rolled edge and a kids toy ring that gave me the basic curve.​
Then I rolled out Aves epoxy putty to a thin sheet, let it set up a bit and laid it over the structure to help me get a slightly "hammered" look I was going for.​
Mine is on the left and the kit is on the right.​
​
Click to expand...

Thanks Mongo Mel.
Inspirational pictures, with a most convincing result. Much nicer than the original sculpt.

Cheers,
Adrian
 
Thanks again guys for all your tips and advice.
Over the weekend I made some 'prototypes' and things are beginning to look well. I am actually enjoying this bit of miniature engineering.
I'll post some SBS pics when done.

Cheers,
Adrian
 
Don't know if your figure is going to be wearing the helmet or if it will be hanging on something, but I like the latter, if it fits in the scene. The liner is not as complicated as it looks, just a little tedious to make. You have to keep the liner "flaps" or "tongues" a bit separated to make the final product look right. I use small amounts of corn starch to do that. Examples below.

I also like the 'potato sack' cover, as shown in the photo of the Leicestershire Rgt helmet, but haven't done one yet.

All the best,
Dan
 

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  • mk_1_helmet_liner.jpg
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