Sculpting braiding on a Hussar jacket.

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Braemp

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Messages
347
I need some help from you more experience planeteers. I'm about to convert some historex parts into a Morner's Hussar from Sweden 1812. Historex parts are a little soft in some details and I'm redoing the braidings. I'm using greenstuff for this and I suspect there is nothing more than hard tedious work ahead, but maybe there are some shortcuts. Any advice or suggestions are welcome.

Regards Lars
 
I second housecarl. As I was reading your post, my first thought, too, was to use fine wire, rather than sculpting the braid. Working with such fine bits of putty can be fiddly, though it certainly can be done. But it'll be easier with wire, I think.

Prost!
Brad
 
Hi Lars,
I have used both methods of putty & wire and I suppose it depends on what braiding you are sculpting and more importantly what scale. Are you doing 54mm???? If so I would use a fine gauge wire as mentioned above(preferably will the least memory you can obtain), if you need to make loops use a former so you get repeatability of size, something like the correct diameter nail should do the trick as long as you have secured.
cheers
Richie
 
Using wire is a great idea, I was so focused on rolls of green stuff so I didn't think of it. It's 54mm and it certainly have some loops.
I try using lead wire, hopefully I wont mess it up with glue. Thanks for the tip.
Here's a picture of the pelisse I'm trying to depict.

Regards Lars
73875.jpg
 
Hi Lars,
I would try lead wire - it holds its shape well and, as Richie says, you can make formers to wrap it round, for uniformity. I used it on Model Cellar's Chasseur d'Afrique, released recently.

Steve
 
Hi Lars,

As our fellow planeteers have identified, the best option is wire. The biggest problem is whether you can find the correct diameter. Copper is probably The best option, because this comes in finer Diameters, and is also flexible enough for follow the contours of the piece.
If your struggling to any, try Troutcatchers! Its a fishing tackle outlet.

Carl
 
Actually I would not consider wire at 54mm. I have used rolled Duro for hussar braid at 54mm and at 1/48 and it is not hard to do. I am not sure green stuff us the same as Duro....you really need Duro (knead attire) for this. Wire would have resulted in my pulling my hair out I think. Here are a couple of examples of the same fig at 1/48 and 54. I did not loop the Duro. At that scale you can simulate end loops by placing a ball of putty, flattening it and depressing the centre with a pin or like tool. Good luck.

Colin


image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
Aha. I have some very fine lead Wire from plusmodel that I could use. I was actually thinking of a combination of the two suggested metods. I use wire for the long braidings and hide the ends under a button, then use Green stuff (kneadite) for the end loops, using the technique described by Colin in the post above.
I think it's too easy to mess things up when i try to superglue tiny loops to the torso. But maybe there is an alternative to superglue? What do you use? I was thinking of white glue, I use it when I glue buttons, buckles and other tiny stuff on my figures. It gives me plenty of time to adjust.

/Lars
 
Hi Lars,

As our fellow planeteers have identified, the best option is wire. The biggest problem is whether you can find the correct diameter. Copper is probably The best option, because this comes in finer Diameters, and is also flexible enough for follow the contours of the piece.
If your struggling to any, try Troutcatchers! Its a fishing tackle outlet.

Carl

I've got a stash of lengths of wire, some stranded (I think those of you in the Commonwealth call it fuse wire), others solid, of various gauges. When I have to trash anything that runs on electricity, I salvage the wire. I also have a spool of beading wire, a very fine gauge, sold in craft stores for those hobbyists who make jewelry with beads and wire. It's good for scale modeling work.

I've used bits of fine wire like that, to make aiguillettes/shoulder cords, and also to make queues, in 54mm.

Prost!
Brad
 
I would suggest just painting it on if it is a one off. You will be able to more accurately depict the lace in scale that way as with putty you are likely to make it too large.

If I was doing it as a commercial piece I'd glue the buttons, then use rolled out putty strings to make the lace as thin as possible.
 
Fly fishing wire seems more flexible, and holds form better than electrical wire. Electrical wire always seems a little springy to me, especially if you're trying to follow contours.

The lead wire is great for making barrel sashes for example. If you wrap it around a piece of plastic rod, it works great!

Carl
 
Fly fishing wire seems more flexible, and holds form better than electrical wire. Electrical wire always seems a little springy to me, especially if you're trying to follow contours.

The lead wire is great for making barrel sashes for example. If you wrap it around a piece of plastic rod, it works great!

Carl


Hi Carl,
Thank for the tip on Troutcatchers just put an order in.(y)
cheers
Richie
 

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