Sculptris: Male head template
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RKapuaala
Active Member
Darko, some amazing work you are doing. I've been taking a little break to finish a scale model I've had on the back burner and I am impressed with how much progress you made on the female figure.
Rene, that's a side effect from all the superhero steriods they need to inject
Rene, that's a side effect from all the superhero steriods they need to inject
pokrad
A Fixture
RKapuaala
Active Member
Darko, no one is an ex-scale modeler
You will get back into it again I'm sure of that. The above engine is a live steam engine I am doing. It is based on the engine #6 from Oahu nick named Kauila. I started with a ruby kit, sliced the front smoke box off and built my own, built a water tank (the green thing on top) Built the cab out of all mortice and tennoned oak, built the platform out of brass and wood, added the trailing wheel and started on that headlamp (which will eventually burn oil or alcohal,,,, in fact the only thing left of the ruby is the cylinders, the boiler and the wheels.
I just finished this lubricator today. It is a fair representation of a Hydrostatic oiler that I made from brass and copper. I need to submitt it to one more pressure test then I'll make the throttle and get it up and running then finish the rest of the eye candy stuff later.
It is 7/8ths scale. I have one more scratch live steamer I am working on with a couple of friends and when we finish that I am going to try to build a scale model of 1905 Model A ford round about, from scratch in brass and copper, also 7.8ths scale. You should really get back in to scale modeling. It is very relaxing and helps be calibrate my eye for when I sculpt.
pokrad
A Fixture
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Darko, no one is an ex-scale modeler
Yes, I heard that before, many people say that scale modeling hooks you for life
Great model BTW, and stratchbuilding is the most challenging and most interesting part of it !!!
pokrad
A Fixture
The print is finished !!! Just got the UPS tracking number...
pokrad
A Fixture
I got my print today. What to say ? Big waste of money and time, useless for the 75mm master...
Do not know if prints in other materials can be better for this scale, but this material (white detail ) is just horrible.
Looking from the front and from the back all details below 1mm are missing or distorted.
When looking from the left and right sides, figure is full of "lines" that are looking like sandpaper.
Left thumb is missing (probably broken during the cleanup process - but that would be no problem if the rest is OK).
Here are the high-res pics (you can see the digital sculpt on previous pages - so you could compare):
I'm going to wait until someone get better results in some other material (FUD maybe ???), and then decide to make further prints or not. I feel bad, experiment failed miserably
Do not know if prints in other materials can be better for this scale, but this material (white detail ) is just horrible.
Looking from the front and from the back all details below 1mm are missing or distorted.
When looking from the left and right sides, figure is full of "lines" that are looking like sandpaper.
Left thumb is missing (probably broken during the cleanup process - but that would be no problem if the rest is OK).
Here are the high-res pics (you can see the digital sculpt on previous pages - so you could compare):
I'm going to wait until someone get better results in some other material (FUD maybe ???), and then decide to make further prints or not. I feel bad, experiment failed miserably
pokrad
A Fixture
Now one more note, I think that for the scales 1/9 or 1/16 it would be possible to touch a surface with sandpaper and fix the roughnes, but this is not an option for 1/24 or 1/32...
Now noticed that some part of the figure are a bit sticky - it turns out that not all of the printing media is cleaned up - just brushed it with the toothbrush and toothpaste - it looks better now ! I'll try to put some primer on it before I write it off
Now noticed that some part of the figure are a bit sticky - it turns out that not all of the printing media is cleaned up - just brushed it with the toothbrush and toothpaste - it looks better now ! I'll try to put some primer on it before I write it off
RKapuaala
Active Member
Wow, I wish I would have waited for your figure to come. I just sent off 2 1:20.32 figures. They should be done by March 28.
pokrad
A Fixture
Yap, You guys have to try with some other material, I think this is not what we need
But I'll have final conclusion tomorow when I put some primer on it...
But I'll have final conclusion tomorow when I put some primer on it...
pokrad
A Fixture
I exchanged a few emails today with the Shepeways support and here is what I found:
FUD is by their opinion the best material for our purpose (master for molding with maximum detail preserved)
I got few pics (unfortunatelly do not have permission to share them), and detail for non-organic shapes (for example small train) is fantastic !!! Really sharp and nice. Print is more transcluent but surface is free of "frost" effect, and really smooth. But we must remember that those shapes are simple and mostly flat surfaces.
I got one picture of female elf, so this is the sample we are interested in (humanoid figure). My opinion is that final result looks much better than the white detail but still small "printing lines" are visible and there is roughness of the oval surfaces. I can not determine if that roughness is significant as the material is transcluent-so can't tell if the material will be good enough.
I guess there is only one more thing we can do: order the print in FUD and see how it turns out
FUD is by their opinion the best material for our purpose (master for molding with maximum detail preserved)
I got few pics (unfortunatelly do not have permission to share them), and detail for non-organic shapes (for example small train) is fantastic !!! Really sharp and nice. Print is more transcluent but surface is free of "frost" effect, and really smooth. But we must remember that those shapes are simple and mostly flat surfaces.
I got one picture of female elf, so this is the sample we are interested in (humanoid figure). My opinion is that final result looks much better than the white detail but still small "printing lines" are visible and there is roughness of the oval surfaces. I can not determine if that roughness is significant as the material is transcluent-so can't tell if the material will be good enough.
I guess there is only one more thing we can do: order the print in FUD and see how it turns out
pokrad
A Fixture
Very light coat of Gunze Mr Surface primer 1000:
Can't be used without complete resculpt of some parts using epoxy
Can't be used without complete resculpt of some parts using epoxy
RKapuaala
Active Member
Lots of striations in there. Are you going to try the frosted Ultra detail? I think I might if you don't. I have some 1:20.32 figures that might not look as bad beings as they are 1:3.68 units larger than yours. But we'll see.
pokrad
A Fixture
Well, I'll do it if You don't
Anyhow, would be grateful if You do it cause my postal expenses are huge for just another experiment !!!
I did not noticed some "technical data" about materials before, just figured out that "Minimal detail level" for the "White Detail" is 0.2mm and for "FUD" is 0.1mm. So the FUD has twice finer detail...this COULD make difference.
Let me know what You decided
Anyhow, would be grateful if You do it cause my postal expenses are huge for just another experiment !!!
I did not noticed some "technical data" about materials before, just figured out that "Minimal detail level" for the "White Detail" is 0.2mm and for "FUD" is 0.1mm. So the FUD has twice finer detail...this COULD make difference.
Let me know what You decided
RKapuaala
Active Member
I'll send one in and have it frosted Darko, the shipping expense is minimal for me.
pokrad
A Fixture
Thx, I can't wait to see it
pokrad
A Fixture
Print result "downed" me a bit, but still continued to work on blocking the male body:
RKapuaala
Active Member
Looking good. Don't let the print results turn you off Darko. I used to be very involved in 3D about 20 years ago. I even had some input into the development of some of the vrml 97 and 2.0 specs and did some 3D work for HBO. Back then the printing technology was known but not even within reach of my pocket book. 6 years ago I saw more and more companies coming online, I still did some primitive 3D sculpting building my own meshes and modifying them, and gave these new companies a shot,,,, 3,000 USD just for one rapid proto.
The more popular this technology gets, the cheaper it gets. I'm just amazed that you even got that high of quality for what they charge for a figure that tall now. Just think; the way technology grows exponentially, in a couple more years, you'll be looking at detail as fine as .001 mm for the same price. Just hang in there, keep sculpting in 3d and do like I did, save your meshes everywhere and anywhere you can. I took a 5 year break from doing any 3d because of the demands of my job, but fortunately I saved my humanoid meshes on 3 hard drives, several, floppy's and eventually on CD, then DVDs now flash drives. So, now I can move very fast when I sculpt, because I'm not really working from scratch anymore.
The more popular this technology gets, the cheaper it gets. I'm just amazed that you even got that high of quality for what they charge for a figure that tall now. Just think; the way technology grows exponentially, in a couple more years, you'll be looking at detail as fine as .001 mm for the same price. Just hang in there, keep sculpting in 3d and do like I did, save your meshes everywhere and anywhere you can. I took a 5 year break from doing any 3d because of the demands of my job, but fortunately I saved my humanoid meshes on 3 hard drives, several, floppy's and eventually on CD, then DVDs now flash drives. So, now I can move very fast when I sculpt, because I'm not really working from scratch anymore.
