simple but effective weathering tips

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More on the knees I'd say they tend to get really mucky with kneeling to shoot,take cover etc etc
Steve
FpParaLongdon.JPG



Top tip on that one is to dirty below the knee, when you kneel down your trousers ride up as kindly demonstrated here by Paolo di Canio.
 

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Weathering a combat solider effectively comes down to analysing which parts of the soldier's body are likely to come into direct contact with the ground, which parts of the body are likely to remain cleaner than others and what type of terrain the solider is fighting in, and for how long.

It's fair to say that the areas most people concentrate on are the boots and the lower legs. This is clearly a good place to start, as the feet more than any other part of the body are in more or less contastant contact with the ground. The boots themselves can be caked in mud, or lightly dusted. The extent of weathering depends almost entirely on context and the groundwork choices you make. Equally the lower legs, both front and back are likely to be effected by splatter from puddles and also from kneeling on the ground.

Next area of the body to concentrate on is the bum. Sitting down on the ground leaves big dark wet patches on the seat of the trousers and down the back of the legs. If the ground is wet and muddy, this means the entire back side of the trousers could be wet and ingrained with dirt.

Another area, often neglected are the elbows and forearms. Anyone who has had to "hit the deck", leopard crawl or lift themselves off the ground with a full pack will have used their forearms and elbows on the ground, and got dirty doing so. In extreme cases, the entire front of the chest and trousers can be covered in mud if, as I have had the good fortune to do, you have chosen to go to ground in a muddy bog.

Finally, the hands. Very few modellers bother to apply weathering to the hands, but in most cases these are the dirtiest part of a combat soldier's body (except when gloves are worn). Even in 75mm its possible to paint dirt under a figure's finger nails!!

Finally, the face. A soldier lives on the ground, sleeps on the ground and fights on the ground, so his face gets dirty. He often doesn't get a chance to wash himself, so the dirt builds up in the folds and creases of his skin until he looks like a zombie. The only thing to wash the dirt away is sweat, which can leave streak marks on the skin.

Of course, dirt and mud will dry and fall off a uniform over time, which can form several different layers and colours of mud and dirt on a solider's uniform over an extended period in the field. Remember that were the uniform crinkles and folds at the joints, such as the back of the knees, the elbow and shoulder, the movement of the body will tend to make the dirt become more ingrained into the fabric of the uniform.

The extent to which you weather or don't weather your figures is entirely up to you. There is no right or wrong way to do it. I tend to believe in the "more is more" school of weathering, but a more subtle approach, particularly for Napoleonics, may be more appropriate.
 
Great observations Tony. The first hand experiences of someone who has dirtied a uniform are most valuable.
Your final statement brings up a whole new question... after spending 50-100 hours on a paint job, how much of it do you want to cover with dirt?
Modern uniform that are earth toned and undecorated, for the most part, in a style of warfare where the soldier spends alot of his time on knees or belly, the addition of dirt all over is kinda necessary.
For the 19th and 18th century, the bright uniforms and stand up fighting style give a little more leeway with the amount of weathering one "needs" to apply. You want to show off the detailed paint job and just use weathering to give context to the figure (where he is, how long he's been campaigning etc). However, a man at Waterloo spent the eve of battle in a torrential downpour and spent the first part of the day calf deep in mud, someone in the Penninsular Campaign spent months on the move in hostile enviroment with no resupply and became a shadow of his former self, the long march into Russia and the retreat in the bitter cold beat the hell out of the paradeground appearance of the Grande Armee.

You get the point... weathering of a figure gives context to where and when you are depicting the subject and requires as research as how many buttons and the colour of lacing, to make your figure as accurate as possible.

This is an interesting thread... so many things to consider ;)

Colin
 
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