Spartan Warrior Bust - Pegaso

[phil_h]

Hello Everybody,

This is another piece I just finished - a great bust from Pegaso.

Done exclusively in oils.

Hope you like him!

Regards,
Phil

 

[MoboSchreuder]

Wow beautiful paintwork

Mobo

 

[Henkm]

Very nice blending on the cloak. How do you achieve the metal with oils?

 

[Nap]

Hi Phil

WOW !!! those reds are great ...love the helmet work especially

Why not enter FOTM as well

Thanks for sharing

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[arj]

Excellent work Phil.

Cheers,
Andrew

 

[salonikios]

love it!

theo

 

[phil_h]

Thanks everybody for the kind words - much appreciated

Regards,
Phil

 

[phil_h]

Very nice blending on the cloak. How do you achieve the metal with oils?

The metals were done as follows:

Burnt Umber and Terra Verde (a green earth tone) where mixed together to get a brown/greenish tone, and then a little bit bronze iridescent oil paint (from Williamsburg) was mixed in as well.
Once that was dry, I used washes of payne gray and burnt umber over the whole thing; the payne's gray was used in the deeper shadow areas though. Again, after the washes dried, I then added highlights with gold oil from Winsor & Newton. Once those where in, I carefully then added touches of white iridescent oil paint (again from Winsor & Newton) to put in the highest high lights. The only difference between the shirt and helmet is that the helmet had a final step of some very light Terra Verde glazed over the entire thing...

I hope this helps - if you need more details, feel free to reach out!

-Phil

 

[Sven]

Powerful bust and exquisite execution.

 

[KenBoyle]

Fantastic work Phil!

Cheers,
Ken

 

[Dimonikus]

Excellent paintjob!

 

[Macca G]

Nice one Phil!

 

[Nap]

The metals were done as follows:

Burnt Umber and Terra Verde (a green earth tone) where mixed together to get a brown/greenish tone, and then a little bit bronze iridescent oil paint (from Williamsburg) was mixed in as well.
Once that was dry, I used washes of payne gray and burnt umber over the whole thing; the payne's gray was used in the deeper shadow areas though. Again, after the washes dried, I then added highlights with gold oil from Winsor & Newton. Once those where in, I carefully then added touches of white iridescent oil paint (again from Winsor & Newton) to put in the highest high lights. The only difference between the shirt and helmet is that the helmet had a final step of some very light Terra Verde glazed over the entire thing...

I hope this helps - if you need more details, feel free to reach out!

-Phil

Hi Phil

Thanks for the details ..think I might give this a go with my water soluable oils from Cobra

Happy benchtime

Nap

 

[Gary_81]

Great work on this. I tried oils once and struggled so much so I really respect work like this done in oil paint.

Gary

 

[Henkm]

The metals were done as follows:

Burnt Umber and Terra Verde (a green earth tone) where mixed together to get a brown/greenish tone, and then a little bit bronze iridescent oil paint (from Williamsburg) was mixed in as well.
Once that was dry, I used washes of payne gray and burnt umber over the whole thing; the payne's gray was used in the deeper shadow areas though. Again, after the washes dried, I then added highlights with gold oil from Winsor & Newton. Once those where in, I carefully then added touches of white iridescent oil paint (again from Winsor & Newton) to put in the highest high lights. The only difference between the shirt and helmet is that the helmet had a final step of some very light Terra Verde glazed over the entire thing...

I hope this helps - if you need more details, feel free to reach out!

-Phil

Thanks, I had bookmarked your reply and am about to try and follow your advice. I am a little uncertain about washing/glazing over oils. I've tried it before but even after two weeks of drying the turps in the wash/glaze stripped the old paint back to the primer. Should I wait longer or varnish in between or is it something else I did wrong?

Henk

 

[phil_h]

Thanks, I had bookmarked your reply and am about to try and follow your advice. I am a little uncertain about washing/glazing over oils. I've tried it before but even after two weeks of drying the turps in the wash/glaze stripped the old paint back to the primer. Should I wait longer or varnish in between or is it something else I did wrong?

Henk

Hi Henk,

I've never experienced that happening to me - however, I don't use pure turps; I use white spirit. But, I don't think you should be experiencing that either way.

When it comes to glazing, I wouldn't necessarily use turps (or white spirit) to make glazes. Those solvents generally destroy the paint, and it can be difficult for the pigments to be spread evenly across the surface - which for glazing, is exactly what you want them to do. For a glaze, I would recommend you thinning out the paint or increasing it's translucency by either adding pure linseed oil (or something similar), or you can use an alkyd medium such as Liquin from Winsor & Newton - the "Fine Detail" version of Liquin is very good for glazing and dries very quickly too. Winsor & Newton also makes a "Glazing Medium"; I haven't tried that, but it sounds like it might work as well. You can also mix a little bit of turps or white spirit into this too, but I would keep that to a minimum and use a medium rather than a solvent when making glazes. With washes, you should be able to go ahead and add as much as you want and you should be OK. Keep in mind there are many other ways to do this as well...

In my own painting, I use white spirit (Gamsol from Gamblin - it's completely odor free), but on the occasions that I do add it to the paint, I add very little. I tend to favor adding mediums like linseed oil, Liquin or my current favorite, Weber's Rapidry. I generally add as much as I need of these depending on how thin/translucent I want my paint to be.

I think it's very important to point out that the use of solvents and mediums in oil paints is a hugely broad topic and a personal one too... this is just my approach and works for me. There is definitely no one "right" or "correct" approach. I would suggest you try the above, but also definitely experiment - you may hit on something that works great for you. If you'd like to go into more detail, please feel free to send me a direct message.

I hope this helps!
Regards,
Phil

 

[Henkm]

Thanks a lot for the very detailed response!

Henk