Suggestions on how to sculpt this

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Anders Heintz

A Fixture
Joined
Aug 23, 2003
Messages
3,519
Location
Dallas, Texas
Hola Guys!

Im doing a 54mm figure that requires leather scale amror like this:

scalearmorsmall.jpg


Now the question is how to go about it. I tried with evergreen plastic strips but it looks kind of weird. Maybe I need to try it again as that is the way that makes most sense to me. Does anyone have any other suggestions to try out?
 
Anders,
I am no sculptor, so I can can't offer any direct advice, but you might want to ask over on the medrom forum, or Augie R's site, if anybody knows, somebody over on those two sites will.
 
I'm not a sculptor too, but just as an advice, for that scale you might want to give a try to the carving technique. To see how far it will bring you, take a look at the work of Laruccia.
What you see in the picture is a 15 seconds work, without lens, without the right tool and on a piece of plasticard. The set square is in millimeters.
To do a such work you need a magnify lens and goldsmith tools ('sgorbie' in italian, 'buriles' in spanish but I dont know how is it in english). You can see a sample of such tools here: http://ameliagonzalez.com/engastado2.htm - note that the unit of measurement is tenth of millimeters.
Good luck.
 

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Hello Anders,

This is typical lamellar armor. I did domething very similar on my Attila the Hun figure for Poste Militaire many years ago.

The way I did it was to create a sort of "stamping" tool. This was made from a few pieces of evergreen strip plastic glued together in an overlapping manner just as the scales appear in your illustration. The little bits of lacing were represented by carving small holes into the individual scales. The tool works best if it only represents two or three scales at the most.

The individual rows of lamellae must be done one row at a time, starting at the top since each succeeding row overlaps the bottom of the row above. You simply start from one end, carefully pushing the tool into the soft putty. The previously impressed "scales" are used as the 'index' for lining up the next ones in line.

Once you have impressed a complete row of scales, the tops of them are carefully shaped with the knife and toothpicks. Final sharpening up of the upper edges should be done with a sharp knife after the putty has hardened. You must let each individual row harden before doing the next to avoid smooshing the detail of the previous row.

Yeah, i know, this takes forever to do! But it was the best solution I came up with at the time. Take a look at the Poste Militaire figure of Attila to see how the effect looks in the end.

Good luck............ and much patience dude!

Mike
 
Thanks for your suggestions! I will try both and see how it works.

You cant argue with the results you got Mike, Attila is an awesome piece of work.
 
Hi Anders, I was going to suggest either constructing the lamellae by hand from shaped plastic card if it's for a one-off or using an impression tool like Mike suggests if it's for a commercial master. Even with the slow progression of the second method (which you can always speed along in a hot box) it might be the better option overall.

Originally posted by bonehead@Oct 31 2005, 06:18 PM
Take a look at the Poste Militaire figure of Attila to see how the effect looks in the end.
Very good :)

Einion
 
Originally posted by Anders Heintz@Oct 30 2005, 04:58 PM
Hola Guys!

Im doing a 54mm figure that requires leather scale amror like this:

scalearmorsmall.jpg


Now the question is how to go about it. I tried with evergreen plastic strips but it looks kind of weird. Maybe I need to try it again as that is the way that makes most sense to me. Does anyone have any other suggestions to try out?
Anders,

I did this kind of armor in sheet lead. Made a Cutter from a piece of round brass tubing (shaped to a elongated "U" ) and sharpened from the outside edge. Easy to cut and layed out nicely. Similar in concept to the Chainmail tool I made, if you recall.

Just a thougth

Neill
 
make use the degrees surface tension in the putty to your advantage, you can with a tool push corners down and insert corner edges and lightly lift up for the different levels of layering, using Mike's suggestion..

view it as an effect, sculpt what you see and not replicating precisely what it is sometimes mail and although technically/clinically accurate other aspects look just like it is: twisted parts of solder and not scaled objects - the artist/engineer axiom ;)
 

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