Thirty Years War Vignette

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Lovely figures to make up as well. Just done an FeR figure and it was hard work. Avanpost just fit perfectly. By the way on the oil/acrylic debate I have only recently got back into the hobby after an absence of 20 years when I used to use oils and Humbrols. I've used Vallejo acrylics but it can be hard work at times. I'm thinking of getting some oils but I see there are water based oils, are these any good and can you recommend a make?

I use Vallejo acrylics as an undercoat Tony. The drummer for example: I painted his trousers (after priming of course) with Vallejo Cavalry Brown 70892, and after letting it dry thoroughly, applied Windsor & Newton Artists oil - Scarlet and Lamp Black for the shadows, and Scarlet for the highlights with some tweaking here and there to achieve the desired effect. the oil paint goes on thin like a glaze, so the acrylic colour shows through. I can't speak to the quality of water based oils having never used them before, but if solvents and thinners associated with traditional oils are a concern, I have used some of the newer oderless thinners and brush cleaners to good effect. For fine detail work I use Liquin detail to thin the paint, works wonders. Hope that helps. Please ask me if you have other questions.
 
Cheers Glenn. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my queries. Yes your approach sounds very much like the way I used oils back in the day. That's really piqued my interest in using oils again. I've got a couple of figures arriving tomorrow and think I will go and seek out a few oil paints or get a small set and give it a go. Will tell you how I get on. Thanks again for your advice/help, cheers!
 
Ain't dat da truff!

Quick question on the iron works, what was the oil process for the breat plate, if you please?

Cheers, Ski.

I actually didn't use oils on the metallics Steve. I used Vallejo Black as an undercoat. Then used Vallejo Grey Black and Silver, in a couple of coats gradually increasing the amount of silver in the mix until I achieved a more or less even coat with more silver on the highlight areas. The final step, once everything is very well dried, is to take an artist's blending stump and some 3B graphite powder from my drawing set (just use an hb pencil or softer, and rub it on some sandpaper to get the powder), and rub/buff the graphite all over the metallic areas. This takes away that "sparkly" look and tones down the silver to look like steel. After that I go back in with some oils (Payne's Grey or Lamp Black) and add some shadows here and there blending them into the lighter areas. I use pure Vallejo silver to pick out fine details like the rivet heads and edges. One last thing, this doesn't work so well with brass or gold, as the graphite powder really alters the colour, so best stick to steel for this method. Hope that explains it. Please ask if there's anything you would like clarified.
 
Thanks for the technique tip, that is very helpful and it certainly worked. Gonna have to put that in the kit bag for later.

Cheers, Ski.
 
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