Thoughts on NMM
- Thread starter jimz66
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kagemusha
A Fixture
From a purely personal perspective...NMM is flat and somewhat 'cartoonish' to my eye...lacks depth/life.
There are some truly amazing results on display in the fantasy arena...which is where it's appeal is more at home IMHO...however...it takes a lot of time and effort to attain those levels of manipulation.
For me...you can get far more realistic results from acrylics and oils...with a lot less time and effort.
From a cost point of view...if you don't have a decent range of acrylic metals and oil paints...then a set of NMM colours may suit your pocket better.
Just don't expect the results to come without time and effort...with a healthy dose of frustration thrown in.
Ron
There are some truly amazing results on display in the fantasy arena...which is where it's appeal is more at home IMHO...however...it takes a lot of time and effort to attain those levels of manipulation.
For me...you can get far more realistic results from acrylics and oils...with a lot less time and effort.
From a cost point of view...if you don't have a decent range of acrylic metals and oil paints...then a set of NMM colours may suit your pocket better.
Just don't expect the results to come without time and effort...with a healthy dose of frustration thrown in.
Ron
Oda
A Fixture
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I personally prefer True metal, but with the NMM approach, it just looks better than the pure NMM
That is my approach too.
Oda.
Redcap
PlanetFigure Supporter
Unless you are a top flight artist, then it just looks lifeless and cartoonish as a technique (IMHO) and also whilst understandable for resin, I never understand why people use it on metal figures rather than simply buffing up and polishing the metal of the figure and then replicate the armour or mail etc. using washes and mainstream weathering techniques. I mean, what can replicate 'metal effects' better than using the metal itself....?
Gary
Gary
kagemusha
A Fixture
I would tend to agree with your view of NMM in general Gary...especially regarding the 'flatness' of the finished effect...no matter how well executed...it cannot truly replicate a 3D perspective when viewed from different angles.
When it comes to polishing white metal...for me personally...that works for sword blades and the like...but cannot convincingly portray other metals...even with washes and weathering techniques applied.
Whilst there are a huge number of off the shelf metallic shades available...they all still benefit from some extra enhancement using other mediums.
IMHO...manipulating shades of metal is one of my favourite aspects of modelling.
Ron
When it comes to polishing white metal...for me personally...that works for sword blades and the like...but cannot convincingly portray other metals...even with washes and weathering techniques applied.
Whilst there are a huge number of off the shelf metallic shades available...they all still benefit from some extra enhancement using other mediums.
IMHO...manipulating shades of metal is one of my favourite aspects of modelling.
Ron
Redcap
PlanetFigure Supporter
Hi Ron and I hope you are well.
Using the metal figure itself requires skills I agree, but I have yet to see a model paint that replicates metal like metal as well as many brands available seem to still have a bit of 'grain' in them and also, some brands (no names) have a'glitter' effect like a cheap Christmas card. One superb metal paint is AK 'True Metal' (bottle paint not the tube 'paste') which if lightly airbrushed over a gloss black or dark blue paint base is superb for replicating medieval suits of armour or cuirasses etc.
Bottom line, everyone will have their favourite techniques which is what makes the hobby so interesting and varied.
Gary
Using the metal figure itself requires skills I agree, but I have yet to see a model paint that replicates metal like metal as well as many brands available seem to still have a bit of 'grain' in them and also, some brands (no names) have a'glitter' effect like a cheap Christmas card. One superb metal paint is AK 'True Metal' (bottle paint not the tube 'paste') which if lightly airbrushed over a gloss black or dark blue paint base is superb for replicating medieval suits of armour or cuirasses etc.
Bottom line, everyone will have their favourite techniques which is what makes the hobby so interesting and varied.
Gary
kagemusha
A Fixture
All good mate...hope same for you
Perfectly put Gary
For myself...I have two distinct approaches to metal...one for figures...hand applied with the hairy stick...the second being airbrushed...for models (mainly 1/12 F1).
Each metal has it's own unique properties...many having secondary properties dependent on age and use...all requiring different approaches...which I thoroughly enjoy trying to replicate.
Ron
Perfectly put Gary
For myself...I have two distinct approaches to metal...one for figures...hand applied with the hairy stick...the second being airbrushed...for models (mainly 1/12 F1).
Each metal has it's own unique properties...many having secondary properties dependent on age and use...all requiring different approaches...which I thoroughly enjoy trying to replicate.
Ron
Redcap
PlanetFigure Supporter
All good here Ron and see you soon at WR I hope.
Gary
Gary
Richie
A Fixture
Let me know if Ron is going to the WR and the date please, I will certainly make the trip down.
harrytheheid
A Fixture
I gave NMM a go but couldn't make the technique work and went back to using metallic paints toot-de-sweet.
Seems to be an extremely difficult effect to pull off successfully, so kudos to those painters who can do so.
Seems to be an extremely difficult effect to pull off successfully, so kudos to those painters who can do so.
franck edet
A Fixture
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I personally prefer True metal, but with the NMM approach, it just looks better than the pure NMM
exactly what i'm doing too !
I did have some good results with NMM which i'm pretty proud of, but it works only from a very limited angle of view and i have to say that on those successes it was a very long process with a lot of going back to basecolor.
but applying the technic of NMM to acrylics True Metals is way more efficient and easier.
Interesting question !
I paint figures for my own enjoyment.
I do not aim 100% for realism but it's part of my 'style'.
I always look at my projects with my own eyes and adjust accordingly. Pictures are secondary and only taken at the end of a project.
In the flesh, I do not like NMM most of the time, even if it looks perfect in a picture (including top of the line NMM done by the best painters around the planet seen with my own eyes).
However, NMM will look fine in certain conditions : against darker general features of the figure or against a background where the viewing angle is limited.
Excellent TMM is actually as difficult to achieve than NMM, and sometimes more difficult since metallic paints are difficult to work with, especially as a beginner.
in conclusion : TMM it is for me most of the time.
I paint figures for my own enjoyment.
I do not aim 100% for realism but it's part of my 'style'.
I always look at my projects with my own eyes and adjust accordingly. Pictures are secondary and only taken at the end of a project.
In the flesh, I do not like NMM most of the time, even if it looks perfect in a picture (including top of the line NMM done by the best painters around the planet seen with my own eyes).
However, NMM will look fine in certain conditions : against darker general features of the figure or against a background where the viewing angle is limited.
Excellent TMM is actually as difficult to achieve than NMM, and sometimes more difficult since metallic paints are difficult to work with, especially as a beginner.
in conclusion : TMM it is for me most of the time.
franck edet
A Fixture
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2017
- Messages
- 1,139
couldn't agree more, with TMM all depends of the quality of paint, at least from my experience.
kagemusha
A Fixture
Whilst I agree with your sentiments in the main Alex...your last line...in my personal experience...has more to do with a beginners lack of understanding of the medium.
There are distinct categories of acrylic metals...which govern their use...for example...those meant for the airbrush as opposed to those designed to be brushed...and this fact has a dramatic effect on the end result.
Take 'lacquer' based acrylics...which are meant to be applied by airbrush exclusively...and do not respond well when any attempt is made to use them with a brush...yet yield superb results when used as intended.
Add to this that when applied over a standard acrylic that is designed for brush use...the lacquer based acrylic will dissolve the water based rapidly.
As said...experience and knowledge of any medium is key to results...all have their drawbacks...but all results are subject to practice and perseverance...and more importantly...personal choice.
Ron
kagemusha
A Fixture
The Riveteer
Well-Known Member
I envy those who can pull NMM off but don't see the point of making life so difficult when metallic enamels and Alclad are readily available anyway.
When are the Furry and Hairy paints coming out is what I'd like to know.
David
When are the Furry and Hairy paints coming out is what I'd like to know.
David
milbenplage
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 22, 2022
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- 77
It depends on what I want to do. For gaming miniatures I prefere TMM with NMM-like shading and forced highlights and/or battledamage.
For showcase I prefer NMM but still struggle with it. It's very hard to make NMM look interesting from every angle. Usually painters tend to paint it for some certain angles ... or for just one picture.
In the past I painted busts with only a few small metal parts one can only see from a certain angle ... so I can paint them in a way they look interessting without taking care of the actual general lighting.
This is a picture of Michal Pisarski (aka lanstudio). I think it looks fantastic. But it's probably painted with a certain viewing angle in mind.
Here's the link to pictures of the full bust: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzf-rjqHIC2/
As others said. It might look fantastic in pictures. But it could look strange once you rotate it freely in your hand without a dark background (f.e.).
For showcase I prefer NMM but still struggle with it. It's very hard to make NMM look interesting from every angle. Usually painters tend to paint it for some certain angles ... or for just one picture.
In the past I painted busts with only a few small metal parts one can only see from a certain angle ... so I can paint them in a way they look interessting without taking care of the actual general lighting.
This is a picture of Michal Pisarski (aka lanstudio). I think it looks fantastic. But it's probably painted with a certain viewing angle in mind.
Here's the link to pictures of the full bust: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzf-rjqHIC2/
As others said. It might look fantastic in pictures. But it could look strange once you rotate it freely in your hand without a dark background (f.e.).
kagemusha
A Fixture
Let's not forget that NMM techniques have been around as long as canvas painters have...which is why a technique designed for 2D viewing will never work on 3D subjects.
