US Special Service Force

[Pete_H]

Here's an updated picture. I think I need to do the following:
1. Touch up the high highlights & outlining on the face.
2. Deepen the shadows on the trousers more.

Next up: the arms ...

 

[Jim Patrick]

Hey Pete, is there any way you could get a larger pic in there for us to see? Just something showing the face a little clearer. But, you don't need large close up pictures to see a well painted figure. I agree with you on the face and trousers. Just deepen the shadows a little more on the face. The highlights look fine to me. On the trousers, just deepen the shadows in the crotch area, the waist and around the pockets. Everything else is just fine. Seriously, I think this is turning out to be your best effort to date. Keep up the great work.

Jim Patrick

 

[Pete_H]

Jim -
Thanks for the advice. I took the figure to last night's San Diego club meeting and got pretty much the same feedback. What I was also advised was to mix up a mid-tone for the trousers and feather it out between the shadow and highlight, as well as to hit the high highlights around the pockets and groin area (hmmmm, I wonder who told me that? ).
There is another problem I've been having with the fleshtones. It seems that my high highlights tend to fade out almost completely once they dry. I've been adding tit.white to my highlight color (to create almost a "flesh tint off'white") for this and just hitting the highest highlights with it - tip of nose, top of cheekbone, lower edge of nostrils, etc. Still, they seem to fade out when they dry. Has anybody else faced this problem?
As for the pictures, I've always sucked at taking them - I think it's my lighting. I'll keep trying

Keith -
Thanks. I've been using unbleached titanium a lot lately for just about everything short of flethsones - particularly for weathering and groundwork (has a really dusty-looking color to it).

Brother Larry -
Hey baby, thanks for all them positive waves so early in the morning. Woof woof ... woofwoofwoof!!! That's my other dog impersonation :lol:

 

[John Long]

Pete, I have had the same problem with the hi-highlights before. Lately, I've used titanium white very little in my fleshtones. When I do, it's for the application you describe. Try this; instead of adding the white to your highlight color, use it straight. Apply it s p a r i n g l y, blending as you apply. Then leave it alone. If you only add it to the highest, most reflective points of the face it shouldn't need alot of blending.

 

[KeithP]

Pete - Yes. I experience the same thing. And, John's advice is exactly what I do.

Also, I note that placing my figures in the dry box after painting tends to fade out the highs in general. Noted that especially on blues. So, I have been a bit heavier handed in the first wet on wet high...

Good stuff!

Keith

 

[Pete_H]

John - thanks for the advice, buddy! I've put it to good use. Now let's see how they look when they dry

Keith - I've noticed that fading too and have been doing exactly what you do as well. What do you use for a dry box? I stick my figures into a toaster oven at 150-180 F for about 90 mins. I've never experienced any warpage on resin kits, even on 1/35's.

 

[KeithP]

Pete - Small wooden box based almost exactly on what Craig W shows here. Made mine out of scrap wood and hardware
Add a 60 W bulb. Usually keep resin and metal ~ 3-4 inches from bulb. Works great! I am sure it does not get nearly as hot as your toaster over! 100F maybe...

For base coat and wet on wet it takes about 3-4 days to fully dry and for thinner wet on dry about a day max. I paint slowwwww so this works fine for me...

 

[Pete_H]

It's finally done.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/tntlinks/messages/?msg=1595.1

 

[Jacek Spychalski]

Great work Pete! Congrats

All the best

Jacek