Which Dragon box shall I buy ?

[RobF]

Hi Guys

I have spent the last 9 months or so trying to teach myself to paint figures and I feel like I am starting to get somewhere with it. The largest figure I have painted so far is a 48th scale one.

I would like to build some dioramas in 35th scale of WW2 subjects and have read in various places that the Dragon figures are very nice and great value for money so I intend to buy a box and see how I get on. I see there are loads of choices and some are Gen2 and I have no idea what that means.

So ...

Can you suggest a boxing that has nice figures in it with uniform schemes that are not too tricky for a first try. I am going to use these to learn some more with so I have no real preference on subject.

TIA
... Rob

 

[gothicgeek]

6455 11.Frw.Pz.Gren.Div"Nordland" Vistula-Oder 1945

is quite nice, 4 figures in pretty dynamic poses in cold weather gear

HTH

Mark

 

[Jamie Stokes]

Rob,
for achievement and minimal frustration, Gen 2, with uniforms of one shade, either allied Olive Drab, German Feldgrau, or Commonwealth (British) Khaki......

so pick from one of those, rather then a super fiddly multi pattern camou scheme as used by late war Germans, for example.

Or, you could lash out, paint the Yanks in Roman Centurion red colours, The Germans in Napoleonic blues, and the commonwealth guys in shades of purple!

no need to restrict yourself to the usual colour selection, and you will learn how to shade other paint colours!

Plus, you will have the most colourful infantry set from WW2!


my two bobs worth

Cheers

 

[dinovision79]

Hi Rob,

I couldn't agree more, buy a Gen2 set, start with a lower quality figure can be very frustrating.

Denes

 

[RobF]

Thanks for the replies guys - off to order some now.

I will post some pictures of where I am now painting wise in a moment so you can all chuckle along.

 

[RFL]

Dml

I couldn`t agree more on the 1/35 plastic Dragon Gen 2 sets. They are usually re-issues of early sets, upgraded with PE and are a great value.

The quality of the " new issue " Gen 2 is very close in sculpting and details to the best resin single kits at a fraction of the price, and in many you get fine Photoetch for details, and as you progress as a builder you can easily do simple conversions.

Start with the US or Brit or early war Germans, I especially like the US Gen 2 Normandy Ranger set.

In fact I just convinced myself to buy a few sets....

 

[RobF]

I ended up buying 'Dragon 1/35 Germania Regiment German Figures'

I hope that was an OK choice

 

[HiroshiAirborne]

Rob, my cousin is very new to models and bought that very set. You will love it. Come back to us and tell us how you're doing with it.

 

[daspanzerman]

Rob,
I, for years, have worked solely on WW2 models, and only recently have started painting the more ornate figures, like that of Andrea Miniatures, pegaso, and others. Dragon does indeed make nice figures and armor, they are correct that the gen2 are a great value, I have made several kits. However, I hope you got time and patience, because they require a good deal of each! I can tell you that in my opinion, TANK has the best figures in WW2 that I've seen! The detail is fantastic, and although they are resin, therefore more expensive than Dragon models, they always look excellent when finished! Good luck!!
Rob

 

[RobF]

Hi Guys

Thanks for all the help so far. My box arrived today and I nearly fainted when I saw how many small parts there are for each figure. I think (not including etched parts) there are 38 parts for the simplest of the figures ....

I am about half way through this one and I have to say how impressed I am with it.

My biggest problem right now is not knowing enough about the soldiers I am modelling so expect some dumb questions quite soon

 

[Jamie Stokes]

Rob,
no such thing as dumb questions here.....

One question; how do you intend to approach assembly with regards to painting?

Cheers

 

[RobF]

One question; how do you intend to approach assembly with regards to painting?

Well Jamie that's a good question. I think for this bloke I am going to bolt on as much as I can before I start painting - I 'think' all I am going to leave off is the rifle that is slung on his back and the two ammo crates he is carrying and probably the etched parts. I am still undecided what to do about the helmet but I think I might be fitting in first.

This box of 4 figures is in many ways sacrificial and I am trying to keep the mindset that they are just learning pieces and to that aim I intend to try something a little different on each one - or on each pair of them

 

[daspanzerman]

I can offer a bit of help..................

Hi bud,

I've been painting German figures for many moons and can definitely help to guide you through the uniform/equipment, the ranks are a bit confusing (to me anyway!) but let me know if you would like some help, I'm currently painting some German soldiers and also have many good resources for SS camo and Werhmact (regular army) camo, let me know!

Rob

 

[Jamie Stokes]

Good approach Rob,
one thing i have found easier (picked up from here) is start from the inside and work out, and from the top and work down.

I once tried doing a top layer (a cloak), then a lower layer (a shirt/ jacket) and ended up having to redo the jacket anyway......sigh......

variations of the bolt on everything approach is to assemble the main figure, and leave things like the bread bag, water bottle off, and either paint off the figure or attach then paint on the figure once the main parts have been painted (tunic and pants).

Similar to GW idea of leaving a shield off a fantasy figure, painting the shield later.

You'll develop a style that works for you quick enough.

Cheers

 

[RobF]

Thanks for the offer Rob - I will post a picture shortly with a question I have about the uniform.

What you say about style is interesting Jamie - I think in total I have painted 11 figures now (most in wargames style ) and have tried something a little different on each one. I have watched what videos I could find and bought a few books and read my brains out on the net but slowly I am developing a 'style' (thats sounds overly grand) that suits me even though it doesn't seem to be quite how others (read the good people) paint.

I also bought some expensive brushes too that just do NOT work for me - the brand I did get on with is no longer available in my preferred size so thats a bit of a problem too

 

[RobF]

Could anyone tell me how this part of the tunic is supposed to be?

Is there a seam ? and should there be a slit or a fishtail on the side here ?

 

[Jamie Stokes]

Rob,
just read you location...Bulgaria.

Here in Tasmania, it's a bit isolated, model wise, which is why I really enjoy this "Digital Clubhouse" here.

As for supplies, mail order may be the thing but I suspect you are doing it anyway!

Anyway, I have to head off soon, to cut down a 3000 year old tree, turn it down on a lathe, then add some bristles from the soft hairs of an albino wallaby's belly to the end..to make my own brush......which is almost as quick as mail order

Your style is what works for you

Cheers

 

[HiroshiAirborne]

Rob, definitely no such thing as a dumb question. That one there is a darn good one.

I work for a World War II museum off an on, so I am very familiar with all uniforms from the era. There shouldn't be a seam there, that is from when they made the mold. You see that line that is in between your seam in question and the bread-bag? That is the real seam of the tunic.

 

[RobF]

Thanks for the reply Hiroshi

That join is hidden by the arms on this guy but will not be on some of the other poses in the box. Now I know for sure I need to sort that on those models

 

[RobF]

This is about as far as I am going to go with this one for now. I have pinned his feet and attached him to this temp base for painting - off to prime him now.