Completed Andrea Miniatures 54mm Apache Warrior
- Thread starter KenBoyle
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The Norwegian
Well-Known Member
Very, very nice
Love the setting, and think the skin tones are very good
Roy
Love the setting, and think the skin tones are very good
Roy
megroot
A Fixture
Excellent paintwork.
BAse is great
Marc
BAse is great
Marc
KenBoyle
PlanetFigure Supporter
marco55
Well-Known Member
Really nice Ken.
Mark
Mark
KenBoyle
PlanetFigure Supporter
Thanks Mark!
I'll be back to working on a couple of Oniria 28mm figure sets soon.
Just one more bust in the pipeline first.
Thanks,
Ken
Wings5797
A Fixture
Great painted detail for 54mm Ken
Very well done Sir
Keith
Very well done Sir
Keith
KenBoyle
PlanetFigure Supporter
stoffy01
PlanetFigure Supporter
Hi Ken,
That's a great looking piece, and the basework is just outstanding and really makes it pop, excellent.
Regards
Chris.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
That's a great looking piece, and the basework is just outstanding and really makes it pop, excellent.
Regards
Chris.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
KenBoyle
PlanetFigure Supporter
John Bowery
A Fixture
Excellent paint and the setting works real well.
Cheers
John
Cheers
John
KenBoyle
PlanetFigure Supporter
KenBoyle
PlanetFigure Supporter
Hi everyone,
On another forum I got a couple of questions on my ground work. I thought they were worthy of posting on planet figure for some of the newer painters.
Just beware, as usual I can't answer a simple question with a simple answer. And also, I'm no expert. This is just my way of doing things.
Ken
Once again very nice work.
When you place the figure on the rock, your not able to drill so I assume you just used epoxy to place the figure on the rock ?
Thank you
Dee
Thanks Dee!
As far as securing the figure, I actually do drill holes in the slate using a standard (but small) masonry bit. Masonry bits designed for concrete, brick, etc., work fine for slate. However, I use a standard DIY corded/cordless Power drill rather than a hobbyist dremel type tool. The standard power drill has more torque which works better when using the masonry bit.
Also, I do several test layouts on my base with different pieces of slate trying different looks until I am satisfied. Then, I drill the specific piece of slate that holds the figure prior to assembling the finished groundwork. I place the slate in a workbench vise so I can drill more safely.
This was my approach on this figure and the Roman soldier I did earlier. For the 28mm US Cavalry vignette, the slate was only on the edges of the base and the middle, where the figures were placed was just Magic Sculpt. Therefore I just used my dremel and a normal bit to drill through the Magic Sculpt.
Hope this makes sense. Any other questions let me know. Here is a picture of my final test layout with the holes in the slate clearly visible.
Thanks,
Ken
Hi Ken
Thanks so much for the details. Very helpful.
I got a large bag of slate off eBay that said it could be used for aquariums.
I then took one of my husbands really large hammers and broke them into smaller pieces.
I am going to get a masonry drill and try drilling a piece.
Another question What are you painting that slate with ? Acrylics I assume. You may have mentioned it before but I see the slate is black when you start.
Thank you
Dee
Dee,
I use acrylics, vallejo, reaper or whatever. If I was doing a midwestern or eastern US based figure the black/gray color of the slate wouldn't be too bad, but I would still probably paint it. This may be obvious but make sure you wash the slate before using. After I construct the base (Minus the vegetation), I normally prime it with the same primer I use on the figures. For me that is a dead flat rust-oleum 2x ultra cover spray paint in a reddish brown color. This makes sure that the acrylics adhere and cover evenly.
As a example, on this Apache figure, after priming, I then painted with a mixture of two parts Vallejo yellow ochre and one part Reaper Orange brown. This looks pretty yellow when painted on, but that will change later. I use a couple of coats to get even coverage.
Before discussing washes, let me mention here that I don't generally make my own washes from acrylic paints and water. I buy my washes ready made usually from Games Workshop. These washes or shades cover much better that any wash I can make with acrylic paint and water (or glaze medium) and are generally just easier for me to use right out of the bottle. My three favorites are Citadel Sepia shade, Earth Shade (Brown) and Nuln Oil (Black).
Just so I totally confuse you
, when painting a figure I will make a filter from acrylic paint and water to tone down the shading and highlighting. This, in my mind is different from a wash whose purpose is mainly to get in all the cracks for shading purposes.
I washed the entire base with Earth Shade. That tones down the yellow considerably. A second wash of Sepia Shade gives the rocks the southwestern reddish color. next a Nuln Oil black wash was used only in the deepest creases for shading, followed by a very small amount of green wash here and there.
Now I dry brushed everything using the yellow ochre/orange brown base coat. I then added a little white to the base coat and continued dry brushing and repeat until happy. This final dry brushing needs to be used on only the highlights just like painting a figure. Don't over dry brush. You don't want everything to be the exact same color. Some variety, but not drastic variety, in color makes all the difference.
After dry brushing, I went back to my sepia wash and toned down any highlights where I got carried away. And just continued until things looked decent.
This is probably all normal stuff for you and others but I thought I'd cover my approach anyway and as usual, I can't seem to give a simple answer to even the simplest question.
Also, I am by no means an expert in this and I'm sure there are many different techniques out there. I am always looking to improve and pick up ideas from others. I hope this helps.
Good painting,
Ken
On another forum I got a couple of questions on my ground work. I thought they were worthy of posting on planet figure for some of the newer painters.
Just beware, as usual I can't answer a simple question with a simple answer.
And also, I'm no expert. This is just my way of doing things.Ken
Once again very nice work.
When you place the figure on the rock, your not able to drill so I assume you just used epoxy to place the figure on the rock ?
Thank you
Dee
Thanks Dee!
As far as securing the figure, I actually do drill holes in the slate using a standard (but small) masonry bit. Masonry bits designed for concrete, brick, etc., work fine for slate. However, I use a standard DIY corded/cordless Power drill rather than a hobbyist dremel type tool. The standard power drill has more torque which works better when using the masonry bit.
Also, I do several test layouts on my base with different pieces of slate trying different looks until I am satisfied. Then, I drill the specific piece of slate that holds the figure prior to assembling the finished groundwork. I place the slate in a workbench vise so I can drill more safely.
This was my approach on this figure and the Roman soldier I did earlier. For the 28mm US Cavalry vignette, the slate was only on the edges of the base and the middle, where the figures were placed was just Magic Sculpt. Therefore I just used my dremel and a normal bit to drill through the Magic Sculpt.
Hope this makes sense. Any other questions let me know. Here is a picture of my final test layout with the holes in the slate clearly visible.
Thanks,
Ken
Hi Ken
Thanks so much for the details. Very helpful.
I got a large bag of slate off eBay that said it could be used for aquariums.
I then took one of my husbands really large hammers and broke them into smaller pieces.
I am going to get a masonry drill and try drilling a piece.
Another question
What are you painting that slate with ? Acrylics I assume. You may have mentioned it before but I see the slate is black when you start.Thank you
Dee
Dee,
I use acrylics, vallejo, reaper or whatever. If I was doing a midwestern or eastern US based figure the black/gray color of the slate wouldn't be too bad, but I would still probably paint it. This may be obvious but make sure you wash the slate before using. After I construct the base (Minus the vegetation), I normally prime it with the same primer I use on the figures. For me that is a dead flat rust-oleum 2x ultra cover spray paint in a reddish brown color. This makes sure that the acrylics adhere and cover evenly.
As a example, on this Apache figure, after priming, I then painted with a mixture of two parts Vallejo yellow ochre and one part Reaper Orange brown. This looks pretty yellow when painted on, but that will change later. I use a couple of coats to get even coverage.
Before discussing washes, let me mention here that I don't generally make my own washes from acrylic paints and water. I buy my washes ready made usually from Games Workshop. These washes or shades cover much better that any wash I can make with acrylic paint and water (or glaze medium) and are generally just easier for me to use right out of the bottle. My three favorites are Citadel Sepia shade, Earth Shade (Brown) and Nuln Oil (Black).
Just so I totally confuse you
I washed the entire base with Earth Shade. That tones down the yellow considerably. A second wash of Sepia Shade gives the rocks the southwestern reddish color. next a Nuln Oil black wash was used only in the deepest creases for shading, followed by a very small amount of green wash here and there.
Now I dry brushed everything using the yellow ochre/orange brown base coat. I then added a little white to the base coat and continued dry brushing and repeat until happy. This final dry brushing needs to be used on only the highlights just like painting a figure. Don't over dry brush. You don't want everything to be the exact same color. Some variety, but not drastic variety, in color makes all the difference.
After dry brushing, I went back to my sepia wash and toned down any highlights where I got carried away. And just continued until things looked decent.
This is probably all normal stuff for you and others but I thought I'd cover my approach anyway and as usual, I can't seem to give a simple answer to even the simplest question.
Good painting,
Ken
Hi Ken
Catching up a bit .....nice presentation on both base and painting as said the intergration of the figure and base looks really well done
Thanks for sharing both this and tge basework explanation
Nap
Catching up a bit .....nice presentation on both base and painting as said the intergration of the figure and base looks really well done
Thanks for sharing both this and tge basework explanation
Nap
KenBoyle
PlanetFigure Supporter
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