Apoxie Sculpt advises

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Jenseits

Active Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
59
Dear all,
After reading numerous things about how Apoxie Sculp is great, I bought some white one. I tried it yesterday evening and thought the stuff was unworkable, it sort of feels like a cross between engine grease and half dried white paint, or like diluted Miliput; it sticks on modeling knives and really I can't get the same feel as with Magic Sculp.
So my question(s) is: what special advises can you give me about using Apoxie? i mean, i observed that working with MS was the best when I let it rest drying for at least 15mn before using it. Any advises of the same kind? Can I use a brush for instance to smooth it down? well, how do you make that thing work?
Thanks for viewing
Nico
 
Hi Nico, although I am only new to the sculpting thing, I use Aves epoxy, original, not the white one. I dont know if there are any differences but I find that leaving it for 30min before shaping is the best as yes it will stick to your tools. Also use water on your sculpting tools as well as this helps it to not be so sticky. Yes use a brush dipped in water to smooth off before letting it dry or else a highly polished shaped tool that will match the area you are sculpting, using it similar to a burnishing tool.
I really havent done much super fine work, only basic things like legs etc for conversions as well as using it to fill large gaps, this I find it very useful.
Ben
 
Nico,
The white variant (super fine) is very "smeary" and frustrating to mix, as Ben suggests setting it aside for a few minutes will drop it's tack level to a comfortable state.

Brushes with water well too.

If you are feeling adventurous i've mixed my aves super fine white with sculpey III black to knock off some of the tack and give it body. It also helps to darken the putty, I find that blinding bright white difficult to work in details..
 
There are two types of Apoxie whites. The super white is greasier than the regular white which is what I use. Also the natural is closer to MS. I would avoid any of the colored Apoxies as the consistency is too sticky. I tried the black and it was just awful.

They also make to several types of putties One is called Apoxie Sculpt and the other Apoxie Clay. The Clay is more expensive than the Sculpt but I have never tried it.

You can read about them here:

http://avesstudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&Itemid=4
 
I use natural Apoxy Sculpt

I suggest you use hand lotion instead of water to smooth out the Apoxysculpt
into folds and wrinkles, etc. As I notice that near the thin edge of the process
of moving the putty to cover an area, that if I use water, the very thin
portion of the putty starts to break into little pieces. When I use hand or
body lotion, that does not occur. And as the putty cures I notice no effect
whatever of the lotion being on the surface.

Also, I usually always mix the ApoxySculpt and let it sit for 30 to 45 minutes
before I use it. I would not recommend any of the ApoxySculpt except the
natural. Nix on any of the coloured putty, they offer.

Good luck,

Jaybird
 
I use something else, and have never used the aforementioned product. But really, it sounds like more problems than it's worth. Why even bother...there's stuff out there that as soon as you mix it, it's ready to go.
Just my tuppence.
 
I use something else, and have never used the aforementioned product. But really, it sounds like more problems than it's worth. Why even bother...there's stuff out there that as soon as you mix it, it's ready to go.
Just my tuppence.

You didn't mention what you use ! ;)
 
I've just been trying out the ApoxieClay the last week or so after years of using the Sculpt.

I'm very impressed for sculpting, there's no droop or sag when workable, takes impression well without any 'bounce' and takes carving like a champ.

I like the Sculpt better for adhering to plastic for seams, zimmerit or attaching PE on armor models.

In terms of cost, a 3 lb Clay is a few bucks more than a 4lb Sculpt (wholesale) but definitely worth it for sculpting. I ordered some Fixit too, but haven't tried it yet.

You can also change the mixing ratio to tweak it a bit if you feel like experimenting, but you've got great advice in the previous posts. I'd try those ideas first.
 
I use something else, and have never used the aforementioned product. But really, it sounds like more problems than it's worth. Why even bother...there's stuff out there that as soon as you mix it, it's ready to go.
Just my tuppence.

I think most sculptors eventually try everything at some point and settle on what they prefer. It depends on how you work and what lends itself best to your method. I used Milliput a couple of times and did not care for it at all and yet people do great things with it. MS is good and I still use it from time to time. But I prefer Apoxie white and Kneadatite. They are both very different but are both useful in their own way. You can mix them together also.
 
I've tried quite a few Bob! You are right about the differing properties and their application, some are better suited for certain applications.
 
You didn't mention what you use ! ;)


That's true Gordy...only because when I did mention it previously, I was told "oh that old stuff"; so I figured I'm a dinosaur with the A+B Epoxy that I use.
But over the years, I've grown to use A+B all the time. The strength it offers and the amazing subleties you can achieve are just right. For me anyway. I admit, I have had storage condition problems from time to time, once the bars were opened.
Never having used anything else, except Milliput, (can't stand it-- I don't get it), using another with all these unknown conditions and "set up" times, etc., seems like a waste of time.
Obviously, looking at all the work done on this site with other material, there is some great stuff out there that the talented sculptors on PF certainly handle expertly.
 
That's true Gordy...only because when I did mention it previously, I was told "oh that old stuff"; so I figured I'm a dinosaur with the A+B Epoxy that I use.
But over the years, I've grown to use A+B all the time. The strength it offers and the amazing subleties you can achieve are just right. For me anyway. I admit, I have had storage condition problems from time to time, once the bars were opened.
Never having used anything else, except Milliput, (can't stand it-- I don't get it), using another with all these unknown conditions and "set up" times, etc., seems like a waste of time.
Obviously, looking at all the work done on this site with other material, there is some great stuff out there that the talented sculptors on PF certainly handle expertly.

LOL, 'old stuff' a shame, I guess some folks don't realize that the medium doesn't make the art the artist does ! ;)

Mashed potatoes, bottle caps or even roaches can produce amazing art =)
 
Gordy, that's a new one on me...roaches. Damn. Who knew?
I thought the Marquis deSade, while incarcerated, had the weird medium award...
 
I use both the natural and the Apoxyclay. I like the properties of the clay as it reminds me of A&B while it is still workable. I highly recommend blending with rubbing alcohol (91% solution). It smooths very nicely and it evaporated very quickly thereby avoiding the pebbling you get when you smooth with water. Aves also sells there own blending and smoothing fluid. I have some and use it to think the putty to use is as a seam filler (similar to a finishing putty from the auto store like Bondo Red).

Cheers,

Mark
 
Sorry for the late in replying to all you guys, i got carried on by day work.
But now it's night time.
I really thank you wholeheartedly for all those advises and will try to sum up..

- Ben, with Aves Original you advise me to let it rest a bit of time so that the Apoxie Sculpt dries a bit
Using a brush is okay to smooth the stuff

- Gordy, you advise me top mix it with Sculpey III , maybe I should try to mix it with Magic Sculp, who knows ? I will try with Sculpey III though I never used that item.
I also didn't thing that the white colour could be a problem -thanks for tipping me on that one

- Bob (Oh man, I love your work) I should try Apoxie Clay -and check your link too.

- Rick hand lotion.. talking of stuff I wouldn't have been able to find out .. :) hand lotion avoids the thin places near the blending to fall out in pieces, great! Only natural Apoxie Sculpt, not the one I bought.

- Phil, the voice of reason eh.. Actually i am happy with Magic Sculp on most points except that it sort of does small wrinkles when it dries on figs and I have to put Mr Surfacer on top of it -but that could also mean i am a really bad sculptor.
And then MS sticks rather badly on plastic etc, so you know, you always search for the better stuff.. and then a lot of sculptors use Apoxie Sculp..
Btw, same for me, I never managed to use Miliput.

- Jeff, what you say about Apoxie Clay reminds me of MS, I should definitely use that one, another good bit of advise with the blending thing.
I didn't think about it before, but indeed the Sculpt musty be good for Zimmerit kind of modeling, actually when i think of it, I would at least be able to use my A Sculpt box as a heavy modeling mastic..

- Warren thanks for confirming

- Bob, you are right -really the annoying thing with Kneadatite is that it's a mess to sand.

- Mark another great bit of advise, using alcohol to smooth the Apoxie Clay. I also didn't know Aves sold any blending, this I will check.
Actually that diluted Apoxie Sculp could be great to use for groundwork..

Thanks to everybody for helping, your advises are noted and will be used soon enough :)
 
- Jeff, what you say about Apoxie Clay reminds me of MS, I should definitely use that one, another good bit of advise with the blending thing.
I didn't think about it before, but indeed the Sculpt musty be good for Zimmerit kind of modeling, actually when i think of it, I would at least be able to use my A Sculpt box as a heavy modeling mastic..

I forgot about this, here's a demo of using it as an adhesive that I did a few years ago:

http://ausfwerks.com//techniques/apoxie/stren.html

Here's zim:

http://ausfwerks.com//techniques/zim/main.html
 
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