WIP Critique Bosworth Field 1485
- Thread starter brian
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Steve Ski
PlanetFigure Supporter
That is some incredible metal work. Would you please give us the recipe, Brian? I've got a bit of metal work just ahead and could use all the help I can get.
Oda
A Fixture
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- Feb 2, 2016
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Fully metal-clad subjects are for the very inexperienced (only one surface to cover,not much texturing,no flesh or face visible etc) or for the higly experienced modeller (only a very experienced modeller can take a somewhat "dull" subject and make it into something visually challenging) .You belong to the second category,no doubt,and you have created a little gem.One of the finest metal works I have ever seen.Curious to know your recipe too if you care to disclose.
Oda.
Oda.
Giwe
Well-Known Member
Awesome work, especially the metals!!!
Hi Brian
Awesome metallic work , you could almost remove each piece ...do share how you painted this
Like the groundwork , will you add anymore mud splash ?
Might be pic but sword looks very slightly warped
Look forward to seeing more
Happy benchtime
Nap
Awesome metallic work , you could almost remove each piece ...do share how you painted this
Like the groundwork , will you add anymore mud splash ?
Might be pic but sword looks very slightly warped
Look forward to seeing more
Happy benchtime
Nap
clubcat
PlanetFigure Supporter
First class armour, very realistic, congrats
Steve Ski
PlanetFigure Supporter
That metal works; Would you please give us the recipe, Brian?
Richard Baxter
A Fixture
You don't mention the subject of the figure or the manufacturer, assuming that this is a commerical piece. Looking good though.
Here's how i painted the armour.I don't use an airbrush so after priming him with grey primer i painted the whole figure with AK Interactive black which gives off a slight sheen,which is what you want.I then painted all the armour with Game Color Gunmetal.The next day i made a mix of Lamp Black with a touch of burnt umber oils.I then brushed this mix with no thinners, onto all the armour.I put it on pretty thick.I then get a kitchen paper towel,preferably the quilted type and start wiping off in a downward motion.The oil mix will stay in the parts of the armour that are recessed,and the rest of the armour will be stained with the mix.You can take off as much,or as little as you want depending on how bright you want the armour.
I then add more shading and blend it in with a small filbert brush.I then add highlights, with the gunmetal acrylic with a touch of acrylic silver on all the edges and raised areas.Once this is all dried which could be a couple of days,i then give the armour a thinned down wash of The Army Painter's Acrylic Dark Tone wash,although you could use other brands of washes or inks,as long as it doesn't dull down the sheen on the armour.
I hope this helps ,as it's not an exact formula,but it's one that i personally like.
I've attached 3 different ways i've painted over the years,but i think i'll be sticking with my present method
Brian
I then add more shading and blend it in with a small filbert brush.I then add highlights, with the gunmetal acrylic with a touch of acrylic silver on all the edges and raised areas.Once this is all dried which could be a couple of days,i then give the armour a thinned down wash of The Army Painter's Acrylic Dark Tone wash,although you could use other brands of washes or inks,as long as it doesn't dull down the sheen on the armour.
I hope this helps ,as it's not an exact formula,but it's one that i personally like.
I've attached 3 different ways i've painted over the years,but i think i'll be sticking with my present method
Brian
DEL
A Fixture
Brian get a comb with suitable length of teeth. Perfect shape to replace blade.
I've got an idea about a Bosworth scene I'll pick your brains about the armour worn when I next see you.
Very nice armour though. Looks real (as in medieval steel that's been about a rainy muddy battlefield).Wayneb
A Fixture
Masterful.....That's for sure....
TERRYSOMME1916
A Fixture
Hi Brian excellent metals on all three but like the rest off us we all keep experimenting with each subject to try and arrive at that metallic painting process that we are happy with, reading your process on the latest figure I just want to clarify if it's Game Colour Gunmetal and Game Colour Silver that you used and did you go straight from the bottle or dilute and was it Dry Brushed on or just applied using fine brushwork.
I ask you this because I had spent a fair bit of time painting Chain mail on a bust and thought I was finished but everytime I looked at it I thought it needed more highlights and depth, so away I went again and carefully applied these until I reached the happy point, then I returned to the bust a couple of weeks later and it seemed as though it needed more highlights etc, this was now going on forever, anyway I left the workbench for several months due to other commitments and went back to it last week, thought I was going mad the highlights that I had constantly been revisiting had faded away, I then checked a couple of other figures that I had taken to a similar stage over the years and the same thing had occurred with them as well, the bright highlights had been absorbed into the base coats, so my process has now been scrapped and I am back to the drawing board.
TERRY
I ask you this because I had spent a fair bit of time painting Chain mail on a bust and thought I was finished but everytime I looked at it I thought it needed more highlights and depth, so away I went again and carefully applied these until I reached the happy point, then I returned to the bust a couple of weeks later and it seemed as though it needed more highlights etc, this was now going on forever, anyway I left the workbench for several months due to other commitments and went back to it last week, thought I was going mad the highlights that I had constantly been revisiting had faded away, I then checked a couple of other figures that I had taken to a similar stage over the years and the same thing had occurred with them as well, the bright highlights had been absorbed into the base coats, so my process has now been scrapped and I am back to the drawing board.
TERRY
I've tried all different metallics in the past bust in my most recent one i used GameColor Gunmetal.I applied it with a brush usually at least 2 thinned coats,sometimes more,over a black undercoat which ive tried for the first time ,as i usually used the grey primer.I cover the whole armour with the gunmetal making sure i don't have any brush marks.Then i slap on the oil a mixture of black with a touch of burnt umber/The chainmail i use the same Game Color Gunmetal and after it's dried i just use washes of oils so that it collects in all the links.For any highlights i use the gunmetal with a touch of any silver.Something i have just discoverd is Army Painters Dark tone ink which i thinned down and washed it over the armour and let it collect in all the armours nooks and crannies, making sure it doesn't puddle in places.Let me know how you get on and get back to me if you need more help.
Brian
Brian
Warren SMITH
A Fixture
Excellent work..
Steve Ski
PlanetFigure Supporter
Most excellent explination, Brian, I greatly appreciate the intel. this will go in my tool box, very helpful.
Awesome work, wouldn't come close to saying how incredible this armor looks! Thanks, Brian!
Saw this in the past with gold printers ink but never with any acrylic based product. Which product did you use on your bust ?
Much the same, but he was underpainted with Dark Star's Baroque that i was using at the time.This particular metallic paint was more difficult to get brush free coats which usually was about 3 coats at least.Once you establish a brush stroke free finish it still gave me a decent result when i started with the oils.I've only just started using the GameColor metallics and they're easier to apply.
TERRYSOMME1916
A Fixture
Brian thank you for getting back to me with the further explanation on how you obtained the metallic finish on the armour etc, I will certainly give it a go.
Alex thank you for your input, I will do my best to explain where I am with metallics:
Way back when I was a regular figure painter say 30/40 years ago (before getting married and knockin out a couple of kids), my process was grey prime the figure using a car spray can, then undercoat the Chainmail/Silver Armour in Humbrol Matt Black, I then used tubes of an oil based product called Goldfinger (SILVER and GOLD oil paint) you can still get it and I have heard others mention it on PF, but back then I would have placed a drop of silver onto the palate and mixed some black oil paint into it to create a dark gunmetal tone that I would dry brush onto the raised details of the mail and most of the armour areas trying to keep away from the recessed areas so that they still remained blackish, I repeated this process several times adding more silver to the mix gradually bringing the highlights up to the extreme raised areas, you could then go back and add black oil paint to the recesses etc, brushing it out to blend it into the different shades of gunmetal and silver to create a smooth graduation, you just worked at it adding depth and highlights until you were happy, the problem with this process was that very small sparkles landed all over the figure, so the idea was to paint all the metallics before anything else.
When I came back to the hobby I thought that 30/40 years later metallics would have moved on and there would be wonderful advances in the choice of paints so over the last 10 years I have purchased metallics from Games workshop, AK interactive, Vallejo, Dark Star, back to Humbrol and there are possibly more but not being happy with any of these, I landed back to using the Goldfinger method described above apart from maybe adding a smidge of clear humbrol varnish into the mix to bind to paint a little and as I mentioned in my first post the end result looked great, then through time it all seems to have been sucked into the undercoat and lost its metal appearance, so back to the drawing board and this is why looking a other peoples work on PF and gaining their advise is priceless.
Thanks again.
TERRY
Alex thank you for your input, I will do my best to explain where I am with metallics:
Way back when I was a regular figure painter say 30/40 years ago (before getting married and knockin out a couple of kids), my process was grey prime the figure using a car spray can, then undercoat the Chainmail/Silver Armour in Humbrol Matt Black, I then used tubes of an oil based product called Goldfinger (SILVER and GOLD oil paint) you can still get it and I have heard others mention it on PF, but back then I would have placed a drop of silver onto the palate and mixed some black oil paint into it to create a dark gunmetal tone that I would dry brush onto the raised details of the mail and most of the armour areas trying to keep away from the recessed areas so that they still remained blackish, I repeated this process several times adding more silver to the mix gradually bringing the highlights up to the extreme raised areas, you could then go back and add black oil paint to the recesses etc, brushing it out to blend it into the different shades of gunmetal and silver to create a smooth graduation, you just worked at it adding depth and highlights until you were happy, the problem with this process was that very small sparkles landed all over the figure, so the idea was to paint all the metallics before anything else.
When I came back to the hobby I thought that 30/40 years later metallics would have moved on and there would be wonderful advances in the choice of paints so over the last 10 years I have purchased metallics from Games workshop, AK interactive, Vallejo, Dark Star, back to Humbrol and there are possibly more but not being happy with any of these, I landed back to using the Goldfinger method described above apart from maybe adding a smidge of clear humbrol varnish into the mix to bind to paint a little and as I mentioned in my first post the end result looked great, then through time it all seems to have been sucked into the undercoat and lost its metal appearance, so back to the drawing board and this is why looking a other peoples work on PF and gaining their advise is priceless.
Thanks again.
TERRY
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