Chindit WW2 1942-45.Forlorn Hope Miniatures New release
- Thread starter John Belcher
- Start date
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tonydawe
A Fixture
John,
I'd be very interested to know the colour mixes and painting techniques you've employed to paint your Chindit. I have no doubt many other Planeteers would too.
Cheers
I'd be very interested to know the colour mixes and painting techniques you've employed to paint your Chindit. I have no doubt many other Planeteers would too.
Cheers
Guy
A Fixture
Excellent painting John. May have to order this one.
Ernest
A Fixture
Just fantastic!! 
"Tarakaman"
New Member
Great work!! Love the expression on his face...
John Belcher
A Fixture
Hello, Phil,Andy,Brian,Tony,Chris,Guy,Jose,Marcel,Ernest,Doug,Stephen,Matthew and Patrick.Many thanks guys for all the kind words.I am so glad you like him.David Ridley has seen the response to the Chindit and asked me if I would pass on his thanks also.Tony,happy to let you know the paints,technique and mixes .I will add a thread soon mate.
Kind regards To all.Happy Painting.
John
Kind regards To all.Happy Painting.
John
John Belcher
A Fixture
Hello.Alan.Many thanks for the kind words on the Chindit,Glad you like him.
Kind regards John
Kind regards John
John Belcher
A Fixture
Painting The Chindit
Hello guys,the paints I used for the Chindit were Vallego acrylics.
Starting with the flesh tones.The colours I used were.955 flesh,940 saddle brown,930 dark blue,817scarlet red,814 cad umber red,919 white.
I first started with a base coat colour of which I used 955 flesh with a small amount of 940 saddle brown.This mix was only thinned with a small drop of water and applied in two coats on all the flesh areas to give a good solid coverage.After this was dry I mixed a darker version of the base colour and thinned this down to a consistency of almost dirty water,about 70% water to 30% paint.When I am applying the paint as thin as this I bleed the paint out onto a damp paper towel.I find the paper towel works really well and you don’t pick up any unwanted lint.So when you are applying the paint now you have a very thin mix on the brush which will flow smooth and give you a controlled thin glaze,rather than a uncontrolled wash,which you don’t want.So the key to control the thinned down paint is in letting it bleed out first on the paper towel.Make sure that you also give your brush a quick wash out every 10 minutes or so in a cup of water with a couple of drops of dish washing liquid it will just stop any build up of paint that can make your brush start to lose its nice point.The key to give that nice soft blend with the acrylics is to keep the paint thin and slowly build up the layers. If the paint is to thick in application then it just looks like paint .I have always believed that you are using the paint to give the illusion of the real thing.So you want to look at the face of a figure for example and say that looks like flesh rather than that looks like paint.In trying to achieve the realism you still need to make it pop which comes down to just the right shadows and highlights which only comes with practice.Getting back to my colour mixers.I used a very tiny amount 817 scarlet red to the base coat on the checks of the face and very small amounts of 930 dark blue to this mix for areas around the edge of the beard and neck,I also used the dark blue in very tiny amounts into the base coat for the veins on the arm.814 cad umber red is a very strong colour .I used it for areas like the ears bottom of the nose and eye lids,again only very tiny amount to the base coat.When it came to the highlights various amounts of straight 955 flesh and 919 white were used.When it came to the wound on his head I used 817 scarlet red and 814 cad umber red for the more fresh blood and the more dirty dry blood 940 saddle brown with very tiny amounts of 814 cad umber red.When it came to the eyes.I painted them green.top of the eye was a lighter version to the bottom.I used black for the iris with a very small dot of pure white to make the eye sparkle. The white of the eye was achieved by using pure white and adding small amount of dark blue and saddle brown to give a dirty white.When the eye was finished I gave it a coat of satin varnish to give a slightly wet look.The Chindits shirts base colour is 886 green grey shaded with 822 german camo black brown and 893 U.S dark green .Highlights 919 white in various amounts.The webbing is 887 brown violet,shaded with black and 896 extra dark green added to the base colour.Highlights 919 white in various amounts.The slouch hat was painted in 921 English uniform and shaded with various amounts of black and highlighted with various amounts of 919 white.The hair was painted in 826 german camo brown.Shaded with small amounts of black to the base colour and small amounts of white to the base colour for the highlights.The hairs on the chest were painted with 826 german camo brown and mixers of 955 flesh and 940 saddle brown.I did add a few drops of Winsor and Newton Flow improver to the mixes for the chest and arm hair.The flow improver is used to help the flow of the acrylics and where you require a hard edge result.The flow improver is also very good if you find just the straight water is evaporating to quick.Hope what I have mentioned helps with the acrylics and if you come to paint the Chindit bust.
Kind regards John
Hello guys,the paints I used for the Chindit were Vallego acrylics.
Starting with the flesh tones.The colours I used were.955 flesh,940 saddle brown,930 dark blue,817scarlet red,814 cad umber red,919 white.
I first started with a base coat colour of which I used 955 flesh with a small amount of 940 saddle brown.This mix was only thinned with a small drop of water and applied in two coats on all the flesh areas to give a good solid coverage.After this was dry I mixed a darker version of the base colour and thinned this down to a consistency of almost dirty water,about 70% water to 30% paint.When I am applying the paint as thin as this I bleed the paint out onto a damp paper towel.I find the paper towel works really well and you don’t pick up any unwanted lint.So when you are applying the paint now you have a very thin mix on the brush which will flow smooth and give you a controlled thin glaze,rather than a uncontrolled wash,which you don’t want.So the key to control the thinned down paint is in letting it bleed out first on the paper towel.Make sure that you also give your brush a quick wash out every 10 minutes or so in a cup of water with a couple of drops of dish washing liquid it will just stop any build up of paint that can make your brush start to lose its nice point.The key to give that nice soft blend with the acrylics is to keep the paint thin and slowly build up the layers. If the paint is to thick in application then it just looks like paint .I have always believed that you are using the paint to give the illusion of the real thing.So you want to look at the face of a figure for example and say that looks like flesh rather than that looks like paint.In trying to achieve the realism you still need to make it pop which comes down to just the right shadows and highlights which only comes with practice.Getting back to my colour mixers.I used a very tiny amount 817 scarlet red to the base coat on the checks of the face and very small amounts of 930 dark blue to this mix for areas around the edge of the beard and neck,I also used the dark blue in very tiny amounts into the base coat for the veins on the arm.814 cad umber red is a very strong colour .I used it for areas like the ears bottom of the nose and eye lids,again only very tiny amount to the base coat.When it came to the highlights various amounts of straight 955 flesh and 919 white were used.When it came to the wound on his head I used 817 scarlet red and 814 cad umber red for the more fresh blood and the more dirty dry blood 940 saddle brown with very tiny amounts of 814 cad umber red.When it came to the eyes.I painted them green.top of the eye was a lighter version to the bottom.I used black for the iris with a very small dot of pure white to make the eye sparkle. The white of the eye was achieved by using pure white and adding small amount of dark blue and saddle brown to give a dirty white.When the eye was finished I gave it a coat of satin varnish to give a slightly wet look.The Chindits shirts base colour is 886 green grey shaded with 822 german camo black brown and 893 U.S dark green .Highlights 919 white in various amounts.The webbing is 887 brown violet,shaded with black and 896 extra dark green added to the base colour.Highlights 919 white in various amounts.The slouch hat was painted in 921 English uniform and shaded with various amounts of black and highlighted with various amounts of 919 white.The hair was painted in 826 german camo brown.Shaded with small amounts of black to the base colour and small amounts of white to the base colour for the highlights.The hairs on the chest were painted with 826 german camo brown and mixers of 955 flesh and 940 saddle brown.I did add a few drops of Winsor and Newton Flow improver to the mixes for the chest and arm hair.The flow improver is used to help the flow of the acrylics and where you require a hard edge result.The flow improver is also very good if you find just the straight water is evaporating to quick.Hope what I have mentioned helps with the acrylics and if you come to paint the Chindit bust.
Kind regards John
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tonydawe
A Fixture
G'day John
Thanks so much for sharing your painting tips and techniques on your Chindit bust. I was interested to read your comment about making the paintwork "pop". I presume this is balance you are trying (and succeeding) to achieve between "realism" and your own painted "style".
Thanks John, its fascinating and inspirational to see how you approach painting this beautifuuly sculpted bust.
Cheers
Thanks so much for sharing your painting tips and techniques on your Chindit bust. I was interested to read your comment about making the paintwork "pop". I presume this is balance you are trying (and succeeding) to achieve between "realism" and your own painted "style".
Thanks John, its fascinating and inspirational to see how you approach painting this beautifuuly sculpted bust.
Cheers
John Belcher
A Fixture
Hi Tony,I am glad you found the thread interesting.Yes in my opinion, in trying to achieve a realistic look you still have to add that bit extra.I think sometimes you can have a very realistic looking painted figure,and this might look good close up in a photo ,but when you put it on a table for example at a show it some how doesn't jump out at you or"POP".It is a fine balance though in keeping a realistic look that is appealing to the eye.This is only my opinion but I think you know what I mean.
Kind regards John.
HAPPY PAINTING
Kind regards John.
HAPPY PAINTING
tonydawe
A Fixture
G'day John
Thanks for clarifying your thoughts and yes, I do know what you mean about adding that little extra touch to try and make your figures "pop". As you say, its a fine balance, and few are able to achieve and maintain that balance as consistently as you do.
Cheers
Thanks for clarifying your thoughts and yes, I do know what you mean about adding that little extra touch to try and make your figures "pop". As you say, its a fine balance, and few are able to achieve and maintain that balance as consistently as you do.
Cheers
